Equipment suggestions for new shooter

qiu_lijie

qiu_lijie

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Hi, new shooter here. I have ordered my very first firearm, so here I'm asking suggestions on what other equipments I should be getting. I'm especailly unsure about equipments related to cleaning and maintenance of firearms. I know I will be firing corresive ammo, but from what I have read, hot water is sufficient for cleaning off the sault, right? The following are what I have come up so far.

Ammo, lots of it
Hearing and eye protection
Hard case and lock for storage and transportation
Basic maintenance toolkit (not sure about what I would need really, but here is what I can think of so far)
Patches
Bore snake
Rod for clearing jam
Punches
Brushes
​
Solvent for power residue (recommendations?)
Lube/gun oil (again, recommendations?)
Targets
​

Any advice would be great. Thanks in advance!
 
Hi Welcome , since it looks like you bought yourself SKS or other Soviet designed rifle . You should go into the Red Rifle forum with some of your questions.
 
A tool bag or toolbox to haul everything in. Otherwise, it looks like you've got it covered. As for cleaning solvent, I use G96 brand as it seems stronger than Hoppes #9. For me oil is oil, something light that doesn't oxidize and I'm happy.
 
For non restricted you don't need a lock for transport. You don't even need a case, you can drive with the rifle on your lap. But just because you can does not mean you should. Case is a good idea but lock is not needed. Its also easy to forget the key for the lock at home.

For cleaning corrosive ammo just buy what ever is on sale. Get some kind of CLP for storing the rifle after cleaning it and check for rust for a day or two after shooting to make sure you did it right. I don't use water or windex or what ever other over the top crap people will tell you. Just any solvent like hoppes 9 or outers or what ever. Jut put a light coat of CLP on the metal afterwards. Use common sense and make sure to put CLP on the areas that will be exposed to the corrosive stuff. Like barrel, bolt face and gas tube.

For other advice try not to get discouraged by range Nazis and don't take all advice about guns to be true or a good idea. There are a lot of old people that have done things for 40 years and refuse to consider change. Even if it is for the better. By that I mean people use to think the earth was flat, does that make it right?

Most guns are simple with simple concepts, use common sense.
 
gks said:
Hi Welcome , since it looks like you bought yourself SKS or other Soviet designed rifle . You should go into the Red Rifle forum with some of your questions.
Click to expand...

I actually preordered a Type 81 XD, but I guess it falls under Red Rifle as well. However, I think general firearm cleaning/maintenance applies regardless if it is a red, black, or green rifle, or even pistol. And that is what I'm trying to learn more about.
 
qiu_lijie said:
I actually preordered a Type 81 XD, but I guess it falls under Red Rifle as well. However, I think general firearm cleaning/maintenance applies regardless if it is a red, black, or green rifle, or even pistol. And that is what I'm trying to learn more about.
Click to expand...

Type 81 as a first gun? Go big or go home I guess...
 
Gnome75 said:
For non restricted you don't need a lock for transport. You don't even need a case, you can drive with the rifle on your lap. But just because you can does not mean you should. Case is a good idea but lock is not needed. Its also easy to forget the key for the lock at home.

For cleaning corrosive ammo just buy what ever is on sale. Get some kind of CLP for storing the rifle after cleaning it and check for rust for a day or two after shooting to make sure you did it right. I don't use water or windex or what ever other over the top crap people will tell you. Just any solvent like hoppes 9 or outers or what ever. Jut put a light coat of CLP on the metal afterwards. Use common sense and make sure to put CLP on the areas that will be exposed to the corrosive stuff. Like barrel, bolt face and gas tube.

For other advice try not to get discouraged by range Nazis and don't take all advice about guns to be true or a good idea. There are a lot of old people that have done things for 40 years and refuse to consider change. Even if it is for the better. By that I mean people use to think the earth was flat, does that make it right?

Most guns are simple with simple concepts, use common sense.
Click to expand...

From what I understand, even for non-restricted you need to lock it for storage either in a case or using trigger/cable lock. If so I will need to deal with an additional key regardless.

Just to clarify, CLP stands for cleaning, lubricant, and protection right? And you would use it in addition to your solvent or in place of it?
 
qiu_lijie said:
From what I understand, even for non-restricted you need to lock it for storage either in a case or using trigger/cable lock. If so I will need to deal with an additional key regardless.

Just to clarify, CLP stands for cleaning, lubricant, and protection right? And you would use it in addition to your solvent or in place of it?
Click to expand...

To store you it you are correct, there has to be one lock between the gun and public. The front door does not count though. Option B is to take the bolt out and out it some where else. I don't recommend this though, the bolt will get lost doing that

That is what CLP stands for. You can use it to clean your gun but it does not work as well as a dedicated solvent. I recommend some sort of CLP for the rust protection and lube if you are too cheap to buy actual gun lube
 
Gnome75 said:
Type 81 as a first gun? Go big or go home I guess...
Click to expand...

When I was taking the safety course last summer, Type 81 appeared on the front page of the Calibre Magazine that they gave to us for free, and I guess it stuck with me since then. It is one of the more inexpensive ways to get a somewhat modern platform that is non-restrictive and has detachable mags anyways. But are there any potential problem you see for getting it as my first firearm?

Gnome75 said:
To store you it you are correct, there has to be one lock between the gun and public. The front door does not count though. Option B is to take the bolt out and out it some where else. I don't recommend this though, the bolt will get lost doing that

That is what CLP stands for. You can use it to clean your gun but it does not work as well as a dedicated solvent. I recommend some sort of CLP for the rust protection and lube if you are too cheap to buy actual gun lube
Click to expand...

So using CLP is good for your wallet, but using actually gun lube is good for your gun? How much difference there is between the two? Should I be using gun lube for the long longevity of the firearm?
 
qiu_lijie said:
When I was taking the safety course last summer, Type 81 appeared on the front page of the Calibre Magazine that they gave to us for free, and I guess it stuck with me since then. It is one of the more inexpensive ways to get a somewhat modern platform that is non-restrictive and has detachable mags anyways. But are there any potential problem you see for getting it as my first firearm?



So using CLP is good for your wallet, but using actually gun lube is good for your gun? How much difference there is between the two? Should I be using gun lube for the long longevity of the firearm?
Click to expand...


The go big or go home comment was directed at price. its 4 times the price of an sks. Should be a good rifle. As long as it is not bent people sound happy with it.

Using CLP as a lube is good for the wallet and the gun. I have been using the outers gun lube because I have it but once its gone I am going to use strictly CLP. CLP is cheaper because it has multiple uses. As for the gun I kinda think its better. My experience is that it does not dry up as fast. I used CLP in the army and it works great. Unless you are spending multiple days in the arctic, then use graphite spray.

I don't know the molecular difference but I am sure some tactical keyboard warrior can tell you form his mom's basement. When it comes to gun lube and cleaning just buy the cheapest stuff. Its not like you are going into combat anyway
 
hot water is perfect for removing salt.
be sure to bring a staple gun (put the target on the wood board) and binoculars when you go to the range
 
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For Targets I would start with these to zero your rifle (use the one for 7.62x39 ammo if thats what your shooting and if youre zeroing with a 25/50 zero target) https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/UPDATED-Zero-Targets-Optimized-for-Red-Dot-Style-Optics-Aimpoint-EOTech-etc--AR-15-and-AK-47/18-529846/

https://www.aimpoint.com/support/handling/how-to-zero-your-sight/aimpointr-pro-zeroing/

As for Lube, a lot of it is the same/similar, but I like MPRO 7, it works well and its non toxic/non smelly so it works well indoors or if you have pets.

I would recommend an OTIS cleaning kit over a bore snake (i like the deluxe law enforcement one). I find them much more effective although they are a little pricey but i find they work quite well.

Congrats on your new firearm. Always good to see more people joining the sport
 
Gnome75 said:
The go big or go home comment was directed at price. its 4 times the price of an sks. Should be a good rifle. As long as it is not bent people sound happy with it.

Using CLP as a lube is good for the wallet and the gun. I have been using the outers gun lube because I have it but once its gone I am going to use strictly CLP. CLP is cheaper because it has multiple uses. As for the gun I kinda think its better. My experience is that it does not dry up as fast. I used CLP in the army and it works great. Unless you are spending multiple days in the arctic, then use graphite spray.

I don't know the molecular difference but I am sure some tactical keyboard warrior can tell you form his mom's basement. When it comes to gun lube and cleaning just buy the cheapest stuff. Its not like you are going into combat anyway
Click to expand...

I see I see. Well I have considered buying an SKS, but from what I read here and other places online their it had experienced a price hike recently. Plus it is difficult to determine one's condition for a noob like me. So I decided to go for a type 81. I think the next cheapest option for a proven modern design would be a Norinco AR, but those are restricted and I'm still on the waitlist for a range membership. I also really like the looks of a type 81 and it can shoot cheap surplus ammo.

Anyways thanks for all the replies. A solvent and CLP would be my choice then.
 
lovfawth said:
hot water is perfect for removing salt.
be sure to bring a staple gun (put the target on the wood board) and binoculars when you go to the range
Click to expand...

What are the binoculars for? Just for zeroing the rifle or something else? The range I'm thinking of only go out to 100m, so is it necessary? I have only been to indoor range before, so sorry if these are stupid questions.
 
qiu_lijie said:
What are the binoculars for? Just for zeroing the rifle or something else? The range I'm thinking of only go out to 100m, so is it necessary? I have only been to indoor range before, so sorry if these are stupid questions.
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Yes, to help you see your holes, even after sighting in. A good pair of binocs will easily pick out .30 cal holes at 100m. If you’re shooting groups or trying new ammo, it’s a pain to shoot then have to wait every time for the Range Safe command to run out and check your target to see where your shots ended up.
 
Steve MKII said:
For Targets I would start with these to zero your rifle (use the one for 7.62x39 ammo if thats what your shooting and if youre zeroing with a 25/50 zero target) https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/UPDATED-Zero-Targets-Optimized-for-Red-Dot-Style-Optics-Aimpoint-EOTech-etc--AR-15-and-AK-47/18-529846/

https://www.aimpoint.com/support/handling/how-to-zero-your-sight/aimpointr-pro-zeroing/

As for Lube, a lot of it is the same/similar, but I like MPRO 7, it works well and its non toxic/non smelly so it works well indoors or if you have pets.

I would recommend an OTIS cleaning kit over a bore snake (i like the deluxe law enforcement one). I find them much more effective although they are a little pricey but i find they work quite well.

Congrats on your new firearm. Always good to see more people joining the sport
Click to expand...

Thanks! I know zero things about zeroing, so it will be quite a learning experiences haha.

Btw, the Aimpoint video shows the person using a mount to hold the rifle. Is that necessary for zeroing?
 
qiu_lijie said:
What are the binoculars for? Just for zeroing the rifle or something else? The range I'm thinking of only go out to 100m, so is it necessary? I have only been to indoor range before, so sorry if these are stupid questions.
Click to expand...

Same as Still alive, to help you see your holes:)
 
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