Euroarms .36 cal 1858 New Army

mr.e moose

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Hi guys,Just got a 1978 manufactured .36 cal remmy by euroarms(armi san paolo)Does anyone know the recommended powder charge for these replicas?With my .44 percussion's the powder charge varies from 15 to 28 grains depending on the maker.I can't find any info one this one.
 
The information that I have for a Colt 1851 .36 cal is:

For a 70 grain ball and fffg:
15 grains...640 FPS
20 grains..685 FPS
22 grains..710 FPS

This is for black powder not substitutes.
I am using a substitute.. 15 grains (measured with a 15 grain spout actual weight is 11 grains) with a 78 grain .375 ball this works good if I fill the rest of the chamber with corn meal.
 
A chamber of FFFG with enough space to seat the ball on the powder.
I have never worried about the grains of powder a B.P. revolver took.
My only concern was to have the ball on the powder or in a reduced charge have a cornmeal filler over the powder to take up space.
I would put a dab of Crisco shortening over the ball using a metal cake icing decorator.
Later on I went to a refillable plastic tube that looked like a tooth past tube but was meant for honey and margarine for backpacking (Coglins used to make them).
The important part is to have no air space.

DO NOT EVER SUBSTITUTE ANY SMOKELESS OR BULK POWDER FOR BLACK POWDER - EVER!

Way back in the early days of internet there was a fellow on a black powder board that worked for GOEX. His advice - do not use pyrodex as it is far more corrosive than black powder even though the fouling is softer. He also advised to only use GOEX produced in the spring and summer as that powder was produced with reservoir water. BLack powder produced in the fall used much harder well water and left a much harder fouling.
As for the pyrodex I have seen guns fired with pyrodex that were cleaned religiously start to form rust after 3 to four months. They required a second cleaning. I have never had rust on a gun after using genuine B.P. Apparently pryrodex uses potasium perclorate which tends to leave less fouling but more corrosive salts in the barrel and on the metal.
 
Well for the most part I just fill the chamber with enough BP to allow a felt wad and the ball to be seated.After that i will seal the chambers with a mixture of 50%crisco and 50%bee's wax.With the better quality BP revolvers you are usually good to go.What I am concerned about is the lesser quality repro's out there.I for one don't trust a Pietta farther than I could chuck it.My uberti .44 list a charge of about 25grns. while the Pietta's say in their manuals 12-15 grns.
 
well said 10X not sure why some shooters worry about grains of powder when BP and substitutes are measured in volume. I like to keep the measurement of powder separate from each other that way no mistakes are made between BP and smokeless powder.
 
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