Experiments in Slow Rust Bluing

How long does the process usually take?

Not including polishing, I can usually slow rust blue a rifle in 2-2 1/2 days as long as everything goes smoothly. I usually plan on about 3 hours per rust/boil/card cycle and like to do 6-7 cycles. Number of cycles will depend the type of steel-some blue easily, others not so much.
 
Not including polishing, I can usually slow rust blue a rifle in 2-2 1/2 days as long as everything goes smoothly. I usually plan on about 3 hours per rust/boil/card cycle and like to do 6-7 cycles. Number of cycles will depend the type of steel-some blue easily, others not so much.
Good to know Mauser98.
Have my solution here from Brownells, will be trying this on some Husqvarna hardware.

How does the bore get protected during the rust process.
 
Good to know Mauser98.
Have my solution here from Brownells, will be trying this on some Husqvarna hardware.

How does the bore get protected during the rust process.

In the past, I used lacquer to coat the bore and when the job is finished, cleaned it out with paint thinner or acetone. It worked ok but, IMHO, is an unnecessary step.

Now when I rust blue, I leave the bore unprotected in the boiling water. When the metal is removed from the water, it dries immediately.

After carding, I run a clean patch using a degreased rod through the barrel to remove any crud left from the water. I do this after each boil.

I have yet to see any adverse effect on the bore using this method.

If It Doesn't Feed, It's Junk.
 
After trial and error and a few "start overs" here is what I found works best for me,,,,,,

Sand all areas to be blued to remove rust and any old bluing.

Plug muzzle and breech with wood dowel (don't drive them in to tight)

Wash down with soapy water, rinse well, dry, and then wash with brake cleaner.

Apply rusting solution with cotton cloth using long even strokes. Leave for an hour and apply again.

Hang barrel in the damp box and check in 12 hours. Barrel should have a thin layer of red rust.

Place barrel in the steamer only after it has reached full boil. Leave in steamer for 30 minutes. (distilled water only)

Remove from steamer and let it cool completely. (Very important)

Card off carefully all loose black residue. (I used a fine stainless steel wire hand brush)

Wash with brake cleaner and repeat rust solution application, time in the damp box, steaming, and carding untill you are satisfied with the color.

After last carding rub in Boiled Linseed oil and apply a generous layer of oil over night.

Rusting solution is 1 part Muriatic Acid (that has had copper wire soaking in it until it reaches a dark color) mixed with about 6 parts of distilled water.

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With this part of the learning curve over I will now try to duplicate my success on a gun that isn't so far gone. I have a Cooey repeater that is not pitted or badly rusted that needs blue. I will keep track of the time spent on it and the number of cycles it takes to get the job done. Will start on it the middle of next week.

Thanks for you interest and helpful comments.
 
Very good results there P_H.
Especially liking that classic semi-matte, semi-glow sheen.
Thanks for the thread, it's answered many lingering questions.

Now when I rust blue, I leave the bore unprotected in the boiling water. When the metal is removed from the water, it dries immediately.

After carding, I run a clean patch using a degreased rod through the barrel to remove any crud left from the water. I do this after each boil.

I have yet to see any adverse effect on the bore using this method.

Thats the info I've been looking for.
Thanks Mauser.
 
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