Expert advice needed for new M305 owner

I bought a box of 150 grain federal power shock at my local Canadian Tire. It kinds hurts to spend $35 on 20 rounds when I can make it for $15. If it works I'll be happy.
I'll let you guys know later how it goes.
 
I was inspecting the rifle more and I noticed that as I pull the op rod and bolt rearward (gun fully assembled) suddenly it gets very tight. I then pulled the trigger group out and watched as I cocked the hammer. There is a fair amount of resistance as the hammer hooks pass through the disconnector and trigger hooks.
I'm wondering if that would slow the bolt down too much.
It looks like that amount of movement would allow it to eject but not load. I will try it with an empty case yet.
Even when it fails to load a round, it still cocks the hammer.
 
Are you using the original recoil spring, or an aftermarket one?

Many of the aftermarket ones are +p, which is silly and can cause malfunctions.
 
Hi Mike, I can't add anything to what these two fine Gentlemen here are saying, they know their rifles. I can only speak to what I have learned.
Being a relatively new owner of a few of these rifles (4, actually, 3 are fantastic, one blew up), I have found the platform to be a lot of fun. After shooting, I have the most enjoyment tweeking and problem solving these rifles, and feel I have learned a lot from just that. I spend quite a bit of time on the M14 forum watching Tony Ben's videos as well as advice from many of the members there.
Speaking about bolt/hammer contact, I know there is some "resistance" as the operating rod is pulled back to #### the rifle, I understand this is normal. I was sent this video which gave me a lot more understanding of the rifle;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O67xXyEG9D4

The videos showing proper grease application has helped me a lot. I feel my m305 rifles are excellent shooters with minimal issues, if any now.
It has been a road of minor frustration at times, but has paid off with the enjoyment of figuring out and understanding these beasts. It's generally understood that these are all requiring some tinkering almost once they come out of the box.
Just the observation of an old shooter studying a new platform. Good luck Mike.
 
OP

you said your brass is dribbling out of your rifle, how far does it go? I try to tune my rifles so that they eject brass between 6-10 feet at 2 o'clock with ball equivalent loads. I think it possible you have to small of a gas port hole or else too heavy of a recoil spring.
 
That's also not normal. It should ejecting them with force.

It's tough to check everything without seeing your rifle, but you might want to replace the recoil spring with a known quantity. That's a cheap thing to try. Even a norinco spring might improve it.

Is your gas piston serialized to the rifle? Is it a norinco piston? If the gas cylinder is norinco and the piston is usgi or similar, that could be an issue.

I'm also now wondering about the bolt internals. Weak ejection won't cause short stroking, but it points to a rifle someone monkeyed with and who knows what else they got wrong.

I would recommend a set of usgi bolt internals from treeline to fix your ejection issue.
 
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I realize it's tough to diagnose a rifle this way. I am an auto mechanic so i understand. I'm grateful for all the suggestions and I hope I'm checkng these things properly.
I don't know what kind of numbers are on the piston. I've had it out once but I never checked for numbers. I'll have to check that yet.
CGN user Joe n is going to send me a known good recoil spring to try at no charge which is very kind. Thanks Joe.
I don't think poor ejection would cause a short stroke either. I was thinking the short stroke would cause poor ejection....
 
With the recoil spring and trigger group removed the bolt slides back when tilted. I think that's what you mean??
I contacted the previous owner. He tells me that the navy gas lock was not verified. I'm wondering if i should reinstall the factory one and try that.
I won't have a front sight then...
 
I installed the factory spring guide and gas lock this evening. The gas lock fits just like it's supposed to. It starts to tighten at the 4-5 o'clock position.
I noticed that the gas piston is not serialized.
I'll more than likely have to wait for the weekend to try it out.
I can fit a 5/64 drill bit in the barrel port. Once the gas cylinder is on then I can't slide the bit through but I can see light through the hole with a flash light. It looks very close. I'm surprised the drill bit doesn't go in.
 
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