Express is rough

Duck_Hunter

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Just finished polishing the internals of an 870 express that I'm tacticooling. Can't believe how rough the guts are on it, theres tool marks in everything and burs on most edges.
I mean I know the thing is simplistic and bomb proof but remington should be ashamed to slap stuff together like this.
But everything is all polished up(alot of work:eek:) and its alot more like my wingmaster that I had apart beside it. Should smooth up with abit of shooting now.
 
Yeah, I also have a 700P in .223 thats got an oversized firing pin hole in the boltface (recent manufacture). It to doesn't pose a problem but it shows the slipping quality control.
 
I had to spend some time polishing the action bars of my recent manufacture 870P, even after nearly 2500 rounds were put through it at that point. Cosmetically as well the internals was rougher than those of older Wingmasters and Ps but that's not a big concern to me like having an action that doesn't feel like it's filled with sand is.
 
Well this is how I went about it, probably easier ways but this is my method:

-Started by spreading some valve lapping compound on the bolt, action bars, and action bar guides(lack of correct term?) inside the action. This helped lap the surfaces and show where the majority of the metal to metal contact was occurring.I watched a couple t.v. shows and cycled the action while doing so.

-I then filed down the top/bottom edges and any burrs on the action bars using a small hand file, these areas then got sanded with 400grit, 600grit, and 800grit, followed by a final polish with a dremel and polishing compound.

-The bolt got the same treatment along the outside edge(area you can see when action is closed) 400 grit, 600grit, 800grit, and dremel polish. Also on the bolt the grooved area that the ejector slides along needed MAJOR work, started with the small hand file, 400grit, 600grit, 800grit, dremel polish.

-The path ways that the action bar guides within the action itself only got polished with the dremel as it was not really feasible to try and sand these areas, although more time spent here would probably pay off.

-All areas were then cold blued for abit of protection and then lightly polished with super fine steel wool and oil.

I'm sure I'm likely forgetting something but these areas were the main culprit. Its no model 12 or older wingmaster but it'll do and it was a fun job. The main culprit was the trueness of the action bars, the don't seem to be perfectly lined up but this cannot be adjusted as it is the way they are manufactured, they're straight just not aligned very well.
Haven't fired anything in this shotgun yet so I'm sure that will help.
 
My 870 Express with the laminate stock and saw-tooth rib has worked fine. No jams nothing. Shot about 50 target loads of Clever Mirage and about 200 rounds of Federal Top Gun. No jams. Ejects easy. Makes good "schuck-schuck" sound. Could beat ppl down with the stock and then reload etc.
 
Yeah my 11-87 is the same way. Bought it new 8 years ago.

Rougher than hell in the receiver, the one edge is razor sharp and I always slice my finger open when I clean it:mad:
 
Can you detail a how to on this process?

I simply hand polished the action bars with a series of oiled abrasive pads and then after cleaning I put everything back together and applied a bunch of powered graphite into the action bar channels. After I had worked the action gawd only knows how many times I throughly cleaned the entire gun and applied cold blue to the shiny spots.

The end result was it went from heavy and gritty like closing a sliding door to zingy smooth, depressing the action release will now see the slide drop under its own weight like a guillotine if the barrel is pointing skyward.
 
since you said you never fired the gun and since you have already improved the smoothness before firing im sure after a case or 2 of shells it will only get better nothing like a well shot in gun for smoothness:) shotguns are good for this as well cuzz its mighty hard to wear out a good pump shotgun:)....
 
I simply hand polished the action bars with a series of oiled abrasive pads and then after cleaning I put everything back together and applied a bunch of powered graphite into the action bar channels. After I had worked the action gawd only knows how many times I throughly cleaned the entire gun and applied cold blue to the shiny spots.

The end result was it went from heavy and gritty like closing a sliding door to zingy smooth, depressing the action release will now see the slide drop under its own weight like a guillotine if the barrel is pointing skyward.

Why the cold blue? or did you polish the outside of the action bars?
 
Why the cold blue? or did you polish the outside of the action bars?

Between the polishing and the graphite the finish was pretty much gone all around. The most tedious part of the deal was getting all the graphite out of there after it had served its purpose. That stuff kicks up the wear about 10 notches, did not want it hanging around in the trigger group, not to mention seeping out all over my hands and clothing while i'm shooting.
 
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