Extractor mark on the 9mm brass case, Need help!

dappledorange

dappledorange

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I went to range and use some reloaded ammo. Find the extractor mark on the every single brass case. Not sure whether it is a problem for my pistol. :bangHead:

The ammo I used is all reloaded and total is around 500 rd. 115 gr, TiteGroup, 4.5 gr powder. The lowest powder weight recommended. No hiccups, not at all. Very smooth.

The pistol I used is the CZ shadow 1.

I did not bring over any other ammo, nor other pistol. I did not check the case I fired with this pistol before. I will do so in the future.

My concern is whether it is a problem with my pistol or the ammo related? Or whether I will have my extractor broken in the future, after lots of rounds fired. Or I can just leave it alone?

Thanks.

LrDaVFl.jpg
 
Ganderite said:
That is a fairly snappy load.

Have you tried 4.0 of TG?

Might be more accurate.
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I had never tried 4.0 of TG before. Maybe I will load 50 rd of them see how it works. So far, the shadow 1 is pretty accurate. So you think the mark is an indicator for slightly overload ? 4.5 was minimum.
 
dappledorange said:
I had never tried 4.0 of TG before. Maybe I will load 50 rd of them see how it works. So far, the shadow 1 is pretty accurate. So you think the mark is an indicator for slightly overload ? 4.5 was minimum.
Click to expand...

No, I don't think the mark means an overload. You are shooting a load near the top end and I find accuracy is better near the middle of the range. Try 4.0 of TG. If it shoots poorly, you will have more confidence in your hot load. Nothing to lose.
 
It's rare to see a cartridge case fired in a semi-auto that doesn't leave an extractor or ejector mark on the brass !
 
Ganderite said:
No, I don't think the mark means an overload. You are shooting a load near the top end and I find accuracy is better near the middle of the range. Try 4.0 of TG. If it shoots poorly, you will have more confidence in your hot load. Nothing to lose.
Click to expand...

Sure, sounds like a good idea. Will try.
 
Auto pistol extractors, with few exceptions, are hardened steel. Extractors have to be up to the job of pulling hot expanded cases out reliably & efficiently. And without damaging the the extractor hook & face. Hardened for longevity & durability.

When the hardened hook of the extractor pulls fiercely on the soft rim/groove of a brass case under stress & pressure, it leaves a tell-tale extraction mark. Entirely normal mark, in fact, if you look closely at your case you might be able to determine from the extractor marks how many times the case has been reloaded.
 
hatman1793 said:
Auto pistol extractors, with few exceptions, are hardened steel. Extractors have to be up to the job of pulling hot expanded cases out reliably & efficiently. And without damaging the the extractor hook & face. Hardened for longevity & durability.

When the hardened hook of the extractor pulls fiercely on the soft rim/groove of a brass case under stress & pressure, it leaves a tell-tale extraction mark. Entirely normal mark, in fact, if you look closely at your case you might be able to determine from the extractor marks how many times the case has been reloaded.
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Thank you.
 
Have you chrono'd your load? What I found in my shadow 1 was that 4.2 gr. of titegroup gave me the same velocity (1160 fps) as listed for their published 4.8 gr. load, with 115 campros. My chrono matches very close to other calibres & other powders; but TG in MY shadow gives max velocity at below starting loads. I settled on 4.2 gr. 'cause thats where I found the accuracy.
 
Ejectors leave slight marks but that's a divot. There's a burr on the extractor that's cutting into the casings.

I would not worry so much about the casings but about what the load from cutting into them is doing to the extractor itself. Cutting the casings like that is putting an excess load on the extractor hook and the narrow part at the base of the hook.

If it were mine I'd be pulling out the extractor and checking it for burrs on the edges of the hook. You don't want to remove or round the hook itself but the edges on the sides of the hook leading up to the point should be slightly dubbed off with some fine abrasive polishing so they don't feel sharp or grabby like a turned up burr feels like. Once dressed up neatly the extractor won't chew away the brass like that.

If all that sounds like black magic and you're not sure about it at all then look around for slicking up semi auto guns like the CZ and 1911's and Glocks for competition. If you're still not confident find a smith or skilled home shop guy that knows guns that can clean up the extractor so it doesn't do this.

I don't recall if I ever did anything but look at my own Shadow 1 extractor. I know it's been out of the slide a few times to clean out the gunk that builds up behind it in the groove. But I seem to recall that my own extractor was fine. And certainly it does not do anything like you are getting. At most there should be a slight pressure impression that only shows up when the light hits that lip the right way. No metal should be gouged out like you are getting.

Nice macro photo too by the way.....
 
snooker said:
Have you chrono'd your load? What I found in my shadow 1 was that 4.2 gr. of titegroup gave me the same velocity (1160 fps) as listed for their published 4.8 gr. load, with 115 campros. My chrono matches very close to other calibres & other powders; but TG in MY shadow gives max velocity at below starting loads. I settled on 4.2 gr. 'cause thats where I found the accuracy.
Click to expand...

I don't have a chrono, Sorry. So , I am kind of relay on the information from people like you. Maybe I will try 4.2 next time. Sounds like good idea. Thank you.
 
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