Extractor Removal Help - Turknelli M4
- Thread starter Grain
- Start date
- Location
- East ontario
North sylva and sfrc is the warranty people
The CD is a brand not a gun maker, the CD marked m4 clones are sulan tac 12. The cheapest made version of the m4 clones
Excellent, thanks for the info. I knew CD didn't make anything, but did not know which clone they painted their name on. It certainly was cheap to buy; having said that, other than this relatively un-serviceable bolt head, seems well enough made for a $435 gun. The cheapness is what's giving me the freedom to bubba it to my heart's content. Growing up with a vent rib shotgun in my hand, peep sights on scatterguns have always seemed completely wrong.
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Have you considered applying some heat to the bolt before trying some of the above suggestions?
On a quick side note, I don't want to take this thread of on a tangent, but, would anyone know how to get the follower and spring out of the magazine tube? My tube will not unscrew and the front end is crimped. Again just wondering if anyone knows, maybe PM me, I don't want to hijack the thread.
On a quick side note, I don't want to take this thread of on a tangent, but, would anyone know how to get the follower and spring out of the magazine tube? My tube will not unscrew and the front end is crimped. Again just wondering if anyone knows, maybe PM me, I don't want to hijack the thread.
- Location
- East ontario
You have to heat up the magtube where it meets up with the frame. Takes about 10 to 15mins on high heat, makesure u don't over heat the aluminum frame.
They use some really heavy green loc tite
Copy that, thank you.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Just buying a heat gun may or may not help - I have one - bought at Home Hardware for $36.99 - whatever year that was - a "Black and Decker" brand - "Dual Temperature" - 1350 Watts - says "750 and 1000 degrees F"; "400 and 540 degrees C"
I suppose that someone could "sneak up" on required time to heat that part, at specific hot air setting - to melt that loctite? It likely would help to also have a surface temperature thing - to know how hot the surface gets, in order to get the loctite to melt?
I suppose that someone could "sneak up" on required time to heat that part, at specific hot air setting - to melt that loctite? It likely would help to also have a surface temperature thing - to know how hot the surface gets, in order to get the loctite to melt?
Most heat guns have a variable output selector, you could probably search the melting temps of different thread lockers and moniter the temp with a laser thermometer, but I think most people just strip the receiver down and then slowly bring it up to temperature checking every so often if it's loose by turning it by hand with a thick leather glove.
