F Class Type Rig - Please Advise

Gunslinger

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Ok here's a question for all you guys, actually looking more for confirmation and opinion (I know I'm at the right place for that :p )

I'd like to do some long range shooting and possibly F class stuff. I have just purchased a Rem700 in .308 with a 5R barrel (24" s.s.). How does the rig I have invisioned stack up in terms of usability/reliability ect., have I made a decent choice, any improvements/suggestions.

- Rem 700 .308 5R barrel 24"
- Super Sniper 10x42 or should I go IOR 10x42 or Burris 3-12x50 XTR. Scope choice is killing me since I'm trying to say within budget, the latter choices will blow that but if they're head and shoulders above the SS and worth the stretch let me know.
- PRI one piece base 0 Moa
- TPS TSR rings
- Harris bipod, swivel with notched legs 9-13", or am I better off with non-swivel
- Rifle Basix trigger (8oz.-1.5lb), or should I go (1.5lb-3lb). What trigger pull range should I be looking at, what range is "normal"?

Ok guys lay it on, good bad and the ugly, gimme both barrels if you have to!

Gunslinger
 
There are 3 F Classes: F(O), F(F), F(M). Your rifle woud be outclassed in the first, eligible for the second, ineligble for the third.
If cost is a factor, the SS would work, so would a Bushnell 10x40, or Weaver KT-15.
You are unlikely to be able to get short and long range zeros with a 0 moa base unless you use Burris rings with inserts. If you go with Burris Signature rings, a standard Leupold/Redfield/Burris base will be fine. It will also allow you to use the rear mount screws to get a rough windage zero, to conserve as much left and right adjustment as possible in the scope.
Don't even consider a non-swivel bipod. A fixed one will make you crazy trying to keep the rifle level shot-to-shot. For range use get the lower bipod, not the 9-13. Your position will be more comfortable, and it will be easier to support the rifle's butt at the toe of the stock.
Either weight range of trigger would work, depending on your personal preference. The Remington factory trigger can be adjusted to give good results.
Put the money you save into ammunition and range time. This will do you more good that spending it on premium accessories.
 
You have a stubby barrel:eek:
What you have will work, but might not be the best for 1000 yards. Is this R5 barrel a factory barrel (sorry I am not up on factory rifles) If it is there is always the F(M) class (M) being manufactured, off the shelf rifle.
The rule of thumb for buy glass for a rifle is to figure out what you can afford, then add about $250 to that:D
Whatever you buy make sure it is clear, adjustable turrets and is repeatable. Find something with lots of elevation adjustment. Whats wrong with a 20 MOA scope base? Or how about Burris signature rings with inserts?
Keep your trigger just have it lightened, spend the extra you will save on glass.
I am not sure what the ratio is with F class shooters and Bi-pods, but I think they are leaning more towards front rest over bi-pods.
 
-get the rifle action bedded.
-get the trigger lightened to about 2 pounds.
-get the muzzle crowned.
-use Burris Signature rings with the offset inserts.
-if using a bipod (Harris of course) place the legs on a 4"x8" piece of carpet...dampens the bounce, prevents digging, maintains level.
-get a scope like a Weaver KT15 or a Bushnell 3200 5x15 (both are about $380 pre-tax at Russell Sports). You want target turrets/adjustable objective on this scope.
-develop a load that is supersonic at 1K (154 grain Scenar @2900fps will work).
-lotsa trigger time, even at 100 yards.

Terry Perkins
 
If I leave the trigger and have it worked on that would qualify for F(M) right?

The reason I figured I'd go with an aftermarket trigger is so that I could adjust it myself until I find what I prefer best and it's not that much more than a gunsmith job for the Rifle Basix trigger.

With a 30mm tube would I not get enough elevation out to 1000yds.? A raised base would not be out of the question if required. What are the IOR Valdada scopes like. Is 10X enough magnification, I prefer to stick with a fixed magnification if possible.

Here's a link on the 5R barrel. Funny I read about it, then two weeks later stumbled upon one, must be fate!

http://www.snipercountry.com/InReviews/Rem_M700_StainlessSpecial5RMilspec.asp

Thanks for the input!
 
If I leave the trigger and have it worked on that would qualify for F(M) right?
Yes.
With a 30mm tube would I not get enough elevation out to 1000yds.?
With a 10x SS you will have enough elevation. But not enough resolution IMO.
What are the IOR Valdada scopes like.
I have heard good things about Valdada, but warranty work...
If you're looking at Valdada's, then maybe you should be also looking at Leupold's products.

Terry Perkins
 
If you're looking at Valdada's, then maybe you should be also looking at Leupold's products.

:D This is my problem, every "next best" choice brings me that much closer to a another "next best" choice, and so we inch our way up the $$ ladder.
 
Gunslinger said:
:D This is my problem, every "next best" choice brings me that much closer to a another "next best" choice, and so we inch our way up the $$ ladder.

Spend the money once. if you go cheap you will be replacing it any way.

NormB
 
A "fair" rifle with a "great" scope will shoot the very best that rifle can perform.
A "Great" rifle with a "fair" scope will only shoot as well as the scope.
I'd rather shoot any rifle with a great scope .Bad enough I don't trust my eyes to add the doubt of scope performance!
For LR shooting I recommend Leupold or Nightforce IMHO
Over your shooting life you'll change rifles around a fair bit but a good scope stays around for life and lifetime warranty and service is a REAL benefit.
Tapered bases or Burris Z ring can add all the extra MOA you'll need.
Unlike Benchrest Match result postings which include equipment lists,F Class results don't so it's a little harder to research what's working in match conditions.
Lots of places on the net for LR and F class type shooting to get even more info.
Last smart ass comment.....Would you pay $1000. for a parachute that opens up 100% of the time or $100 for one that works 50% of the time.
Cheap can have a high cost.
Good luck and hope you make it out to some F class fun this year.
Ont0001
 
Gunslinger said:
:D This is my problem, every "next best" choice brings me that much closer to a another "next best" choice, and so we inch our way up the $$ ladder.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with Valdada scopes!
I own four, this one is a 9X36, 35mmtube with lighted reticle.
Cat
DTODD6BRls.jpg
 
Nice Rig Cat,

On the IOR 6-36X scope, How may minutes per revolution in elevation and wind?
What's a ball park figure for price?

My B+L 36X has 9 min/rev, with 1/8min clicks...a little tight for longrange, but doable with my spring modification.

My Tasco 36X has 7.5min/rev. It works and is repeatable .. but a lot of twisting... right John K.

I have a Weaver 36X. They, in their infinite wisdom, labelled their knobs from plus 4.5min to zero to minus 4.5 mins.. OK for shortrange BR , but next to useless for longrange. Phone calls to the company to get a proper knob proved useless.

I know the Nightforce NXS have 10min/rev and their BR versions have 6min/rev.
6 mins is too much twisting for 300-1000yd F-class.

I like the Leupolds they have 15mi/rev and 1/4min clicks. With a flat shooting 6.5 that's less than 1.5 revolutions to 1000 yds.

NormB
 
It's actually a 9-36X scope Norm.
I believe I have a 65MOA range on the turrets, plus the MP8 reticle.
No problem at 1K


Yes, it is one of Vbull Precision's rifles.
Rumour has it another is making its way up here as well, a 308!!:D
I won't devulge anymore, becuase it is not mine, but someone else's.
Could be when that one arrives, the 6.5/284 will be soon be gone as well.
There are a few guys up here that have beeen working a pile of overtime lately, and want new toys to play with!!:D :cool:
Cat
 
Last edited:
buckbrush said:
Catinthe hat what kind of a space ruger is that?
This is one of Vbull precision's rigs, a two pice CNC machined forend that totaly elinminates any hanger vibrations in the Rugers, 30" Smith barrel in 6BR, Rangesports unlimited buttstock, Moyers trigger.
The rail is machined right into the forend.....
Cat
 
The Rem 700 short action is a good start. If you actually have a 5 r barrel it will be stamped accordingly, and this is a good barrel. (takes an act of congress to get one out of the US now). If you get glass, get a 30 mm instead of 1 inch diameter tube Makes a huge difference in light gathering.

The stock rem trigger needs to be taken out and carefully taken down (some fine parts tehre), and it needs a thorough cleaning (I use 1 normal acetone) which takes off any varnished, glues, sticky crap which I found by the ton on my trigger. Also be prepared to poslish the contacts on the sear where it sits in between the trigger housing. While remiongton factory did an ok job, it is still a mass produced gun, and needs the extra work. It made a trememndous difference in my trigger pull , without having to touch any settings on it.

If you can afford it, lose the rem stock, get a Mc Millan , or a Chaote Ultimate sniper stock. both are aluminum block bedded and solid.

We both have the same style and calibre of rifle, I had my receiver trued up, and a heavier recoil lug put on , then had the factorty headspace turned into match headspace.

For a load, I use Sierra or Hornady 168 gr match bullets molly coated (i do this myself), , once fiored brass (norma match) Large primer (standard Winchester), 45.5 grains of varget, OAL case 2.010. cartridege overall length 2.800. This is a top end load for my rifle, not yours, so work it down from 44 grains and see where she goes. This gives me 2780 fps, and is supersonic to 1000. It is a very accurate load.

Now the glass.

Good glass is anything from a Shepherd scope, to leopold, to Nigth force and others. Youget what you pay for. 600 and up for some semblance of quality. 50 mm or larger if you can.

Scope bases one piece 20 min elevation (picatinny rail type).

Rings that are steel, with 4 bolt tie down on each of rings.

The 700 out of the box is a good sub minute of angle gun, it can be made much better with some fine tuning. I found the Stainless barrels too soft and wear quickly. I got 1800 rds out of my previous rem 700 before accuracy fell off to over minute of angle.

It will take you many many rds to get used to the quirks that the 700 has.

Also take the firing pin down, clean oput the bolt sleeve. I found crud in mine from machining, then degrease the parts and re assemble. happy shooting
 
I f considering a Macmillan, check out Robinson's stocks. The Robinson website doesn't have very good pictures but 6 br .com has some very good pictures of robinsons stocks, and they are Canadian made.
 
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