Factory screw stuck

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ATRS rings and rail arrived yesterday.

Rem 700 drilled and tapped for scope mount. Three of the tiny little slotted screws came out easily. Front one refuses to budge.

It’s as if that screw was installed by an anti-gunner mole in the factory, using epoxy and an air gun.

Or maybe it's not a screw at all; only an etching where the hole's supposed to be.

Tried the rubber band and cardboard techniques. Let it sit with Release-all overnight. Still won’t budge.

Got any ideas?
Thanx
 
Use a soldering torch to heat it up and heat the crap out of it, if that doesn't work place the screw driver in the slot and give the screw driver a tap with a hammer
 
Spray with Krown 53 penetrating oil
Have a coffee...
Push down on the screwdriver and grip the screwdriver as close to the screw as you can with vice grip
While pushing down, turn the vice grip slightly to break the seal
 
I have seen the "easy out" suggestion several times on these threads - do they actually make such a thing for using on a #6 or #8 screw?? A #6-48 uses a .120" tap drill, or thereabouts, so a hole for an easy out would need to be even smaller?
 
Waffles1 said:
Use a soldering torch to heat it up and heat the crap out of it, if that doesn't work place the screw driver in the slot and give the screw driver a tap with a hammer
Click to expand...

Use these steps in the following order:

1 - Heat up screw a lot.
2 - Let cool down on it's own ( hours?)
3 - Soak with penn oil, overnight.
4 - Hit lots with light to med. hits, using screwdriver bit ( no handle).
5 - Using more pressure "Down" than by turning , unscrew it.
In otherwords ; if using 20 lb. force to turn then use 25-30 lb. + pushing
down on screw , so it will not strip out.

I have used the above method for years on all size bolts on Cat. Equipment, with success.
 
Potashminer said:
I have seen the "easy out" suggestion several times on these threads - do they actually make such a thing for using on a #6 or #8 screw?? A #6-48 uses a .120" tap drill, or thereabouts, so a hole for an easy out would need to be even smaller?
Click to expand...

^^^This ^^^

A #6 screw is too small for easy outs or extractor or whatever. It's also too small for an impact gun or drill.

My hand force is sufficient to strip the head off the slot if I wanted. (BTW, Who T F uses slotted screws any more?)

Thank you for your suggestions...

Tapping, rubber band over driver, cardboard over driver, overnight penetrating oil, soldering iron to screw head, and various combinations of the above -- NONE worked. Damn screw seems welded in place.
 
First, throw away the Remington and get a real gun. Seriously...do it...but to deal with these screws on these boat anchors, get the proper hollow ground bit the correct size. Hold the bit with a pair of pliers and insert it into screw head. Heat the bit with a torch to transfer heat to the screw. Let cool slightly then apply some kroil. Use a fair amount of downward pressure as you turn the screw. Remingtons are quite possibly the worst for this...among a pile of other things. They thread the screws in before putting that awful useless finish on them and basically glue them in. I am a gunsmith and remingtons lately are so much of a pain that I prefer to not deal with them.
 
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If it's the screw closest to the chamber it may have come in contact with the bolt at some time deforming the bottom of the screw. Try screwing it in to see if you can get any movement at all!

mdbuckle is correct in Remington putting out some world class junk these days. My last experience with an 5R Milspec factory gun that never should have passed QC has made up my mind if I want anything on a 700 action I will pay money for a custom action to get some attention to detail and quality!
 
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If that didn’t work than I think it may need a trip to a smith to look at it. May need to be drilled out and threads cleaned up and re-tapped...probably either cross threaded from factory or the black oxide finish glued it in permanently.
 
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