Okay, I drove to
www.ellwoodepps.com yesterday afternoon and brought along my Falcon 1.5 x 5 x 30mm to source some new Butler Creek flip-up scope covers. Found them!! # 15 front objective and # 20 rear (or something like that). They had them retailing for $ 8.99 each. Looks to me that Epps bought/ordered/inventoried them when our dollar was strongest within the last year!
I installed the scope using my handy-dandy most loved set of 30mm Millett Angle-Loc rings (some people swear BY them, others swear AT them). On top of my ARMS 18 mounts (super low warning), the objective bell contacted the bottomed out already USGI rear sight assembly. So I dismantled the rear sights, oiled them and sealed them in a ziploc lunch bag. Into the parts bin they go! I ain't gonna be competing with the rear sights anyways. Besides for your 'bear defense thread' CGNutz, I'll just shoot the bear 'paintball style', I'm purty darn good with this technique.
Now for those of you who absolutely hate the Millett Angle-Loc rings, here's my secret to their success. The windage adjustable screw design can really help OR hinder you. Many of you just have to tweak your current practice. I will start by cranking the windage knob/turret
ALL the way to the left or right, you choose. Then count the number of FULL rotations to find out what your range across the scope really is. In this case I counted (turn very lightly,
don't meatstick the knobs) 6 full turns/revolutions for windage.
DIVIDE that in half! I ended up with 3 full turns. This 3 full turns will CENTER my reticle for windage. GOOD, now leave your windage centered by returning to center with those 3 full turns. Go the the range and at 25m or 50m firing point, shoot your M14, then adjust the windage screws
NOT the windage knob on your scope.
When adjusting the 4 windage screws, remember: REAR moves in the direction YOU want the point of impact to shift. FRONT screws move the point of impact in the
OPPOSITE direction YOU want the shift to occur. For you newbies, put your 2 thumbs in front of your face and try / prove this principle to yourself. I have to remind myself once in a while.
And that's how I do it with my beloved Millett Angle-Loc rings on all of my Picatinny or Weaver based boomsticks. Besides, I do have the gold medals at the Nationals to prove that these rings do it for me. Now, deploying to a hot and sandier location? That's another issue!
Sometime this week, I'll sight in this unit. The Merlin 1.5 x 5 x 30mm sits beautifully on top of the M14. With the ARMS18 mount and low Millett Angle-Loc rings, I can get away with a minimal cheek rise / weld using my Blackhawk Inc. cheekpiece and ONE layer of closed cell foam.
Now I'm ready to go back and glue (JB Weld) that piece of cut popsicle stick. Waterproofing concerns for that popsicle stick ? I'll merely 'seal' the wood by smearing a layer of JB Weld right over the entire assembly. I'm leaving the outline of the popsicle stick JUST so that I can show this project to the few M14 Newbies attending my next M14 Clinic. I'm an advocate for the 'Welfare Method' as many of you have read.
Cheers,
Barney