Falling Block for Long Range Shooting?

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358 BLR

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Howdy folks:

I was thinking I might try my hand at some LR plinking, out to say 1000 m, or so. I think the single shot rifles like the Browning B78, or Ruger No. 1 are
pretty cool and this might be a good excuse to get one. My question is, would an "off the rack" falling block rifle, like the Browning or Ruger, etc, be a good
choice for long range entertainment. As for caliber, I thought that a 7-08 mm would be nice, but no one seems to chamber a falling block rifle for it yet.
Thanks for your input.
 
Lots of falling and rolling block rifles are used for sillouhette shooting. As mentioned above, the forend may need to be "tuned" and this tuning requirement may change with different loads.
 
See "BPCR" where these type actions are used on sillywets to 550 yds. and well over 1000 yds for Buffalo shoots(Gongs). Highwalls, Sharps, Ballards, Rolling Blocks,etc. are used albeit in much bigger cals, and heavier, longer barrels then the std. guns you are talking about.
Shooting steel targets at very long ranges is alot more fun then distant paper punching.
 
For BPCR Silhouette you're kidding yourself if you haven't got a sub MOA load. I don't see why an 1885 or #1 wouldn't do well with a smokeless cartridge. They're a bit more finnicky (finnickier?) than a bolt gun but I can't see why they wouldn't work.

Wasn't Seyfried's "Half Mile Gopher Rifle" build on a #1 or did I just dream that?
 
If it's plinking then anything will work. If you want to compete against bolt guns in F class then don't expect to win. BP matches don't allow bolt guns so you will be good there.
 
Thank you, Gentlemen (and/or Ladies).
I guess I have a little research in front of me, I've got quite a bit to consider it
seems. For now I might buy a really good scope and mount it on my Marlin XS7
(in .243 Win) and play around with that until I can decide on rifle/cartridge
combination that is better suited for the sport. Any suggestions on an appropriate
scope would be appreciated.
Thanks again.
 
They are capable of shooting very well at long range but compare the ballistics to even a 308 and you will see the problems. I shoot with a fellow that competes with these on a regular basis. He has shot some excellent scores but with the BC of a light bulb you need a lot of elevation!
 
Catnthehat here on CGN posted a photo of a very cool Ruger #1 that had been built in 6BR. I beleive Ed Begg has also competed in F-Class using one. It would certainly not be my first choice, but they have been made into accurate guns. They are a pain to re-barrel and require an extractor cut. Not as straight forward as a remmy bolt gun.
 
I practiced with my Ruger #1 7mmRemMag at 500 yards and got a 12" group.

So that was my outer limit. The deer I shot the furthest away this year with it was 380 yards. I got it through the shoulder.
 
Max Owner said:
One guy bought an Uberti Sharps replica at Wholesale in Edmonton. In 45/70. His goal was to shoot black powder loads out to 1,000 yards with the gun.

Don't know how do able it it....
Click to expand...

Seems the Italians can make pretty nice rifles for quite reasonable prices. That said, most guys end up selling them and buying from Big Timber eventually.
 
I chanced to see a guy at the Medicine Hat Rifle Revolver Club a while back (2-3 years) that had a #1 built up with a long, extra heavy stainless barrel and I believe a Nightforce scope. Believe it was chambered in 6.5x284 or 260, can't quite remember. He was punching some very tight groups. But expense and versatility would drive me toward a bolt rifle. Long range reactive (falling) steel targets are a hoot. I'm building some out of 5/8" plate to set up on a course of fire on buddies ranch. Torso/head profiles and smaller, head shoulder profiles.
 
Here's some inspiration!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4WpYj3CATg

If you're getting a classic single shot go with a more traditional caliber. Leave the wiz bang stuff for the bolt guns!
 
Get a sharps and you can definitely make hits beyond 500 meters.

I am not a great shot but my C Sharps model 1875 in 45/70 can do 500 meters without problems. You just need to determine the correct setting for your vernier sight.

Get into BPCR and you will have a blast.
 
My impressions so far.

Well it's been quite the steep learning curve, but I've never considered learning to be a bad thing.;)

Cartridge Selection: As far as I can tell, so far, they're all good cartridges for Long Range shooting between 6mm and 30 cal.(not to dismiss the .223 and .338 fans). There is always
somebody somewhere extolling the virtues and wonders of each and every cartridge, so I'll say that I'm leaning towards the .243 win. for now because of the ample supply of components
and very respectable performance from a factory cartridge. I will add, however, that the .260 Rem and the 6.5 Creedmoor definitely have my attention, but the availability of components
and rifles is a bit of a concern, although rifle availability seems to be a non-issue as we'll see next.

Platform (Rifle) Selection: My impression of this process goes something like this. You select a basic rifle as your starting point, say a Savage, or a Remington, or whatever and
remove the stock for replacement, remove the barrel for replacement, remove the "bottom metal" (it took me a while to figure out what the hell this was) for replacement, remove the
trigger assembly for modification/replacement and remove the receiver for modification/replacement. This leaves you with the base for your new precision rifle: the "sling swivel studs.":D

All joking aside, I do have a couple of questions.
Does a high rate of twist adversely effect performance when lighter bullets are used, like a 1 in 8 twist with 80 grain .243 bullets?
Am I correct in assuming that the barrel life of a rifle is related to the powder capacity/bullet diameter ratio of a given cartridge, meaning it is the
large powder charge of the .243's and various magnums etc. that wears out the bore rapidly?
 
Obtunded said:
Catnthehat here on CGN posted a photo of a very cool Ruger #1 that had been built in 6BR. I beleive Ed Begg has also competed in F-Class using one. It would certainly not be my first choice, but they have been made into accurate guns. They are a pain to re-barrel and require an extractor cut. Not as straight forward as a remmy bolt gun.
Click to expand...

That was The rifle Ed used !:)
Johnny_Canuck, the rifle was in fact in 6.5X284 and is the sister to mine.
I also used to shoot at 1K with two Browning single shots chambered in 6.5WSM with smith gain twist barrels that would hold .5MOA - lottsa fun!:cool:
 
catnthehatt said:
That was The rifle Ed used !:)
Johnny_Canuck, the rifle was in fact in 6.5X284 and is the sister to mine.
I also used to shoot at 1K with two Browning single shots chambered in 6.5WSM with smith gain twist barrels that would hold .5MOA - lottsa fun!:cool:
Click to expand...

catnthehat:
You seem to be familiar with "bindare donedat", so I'd like to get your take on this, if you don't mind.
Currently, I have on my radar a Stainless Laminate Ruger No.1 with a 26" heavy barrel in .243 Win. and I'm uncertain of the twist rate, but I'll assume it's 1 in 9 for now.
From what I've read, so far, the for-end on the Rugers (and the springs contained within) tend to mess with the barrel's harmonics. Do you think that is a fair assessment
of these rifles? To bring the described rifle up to a reliable 1 Km shooter (assuming I can do my part), what would be involved?
Thanks
 
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