Fastest way to zero a rifle scope?

perrypan

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Just got my Stevens 200 in 30-06 today. I am really excited, and I mounted a Bushnell Elite 3200 on it. Alright, now I seem ready to go. My question is, I only had experience with rimfires, the number of shots has never been a problem for me. But how do I zero my the scope with the least number of shots for my 30-06? I don't have a bore sighter, and I really don't feel like spend a box of ammo (or maybe more?) just to zero a scope. Any suggestions will be appreciated... :redface:
 
If a box of twenty rounds is too much, you're in the wrong sport.


Having said that, the "base" Bushnell boresighter runs 70-80 bucks where I find it, and it'll pay for itself time and time again. After you boresight, launch three rounds downrange on a MOA paper sheet, and adjust accordingly. Really, a boresighter should be in any true shooter's range box.
 
Put a target out to25 yards. Set your rifle up on some sandbags. Remove the bolt. Look down the bore from behind and move the rifle until the centre of the target is centred in the bore. Making sure not to bump the rifle, look through the scope to see where the crosshairs are. Adjust the scope until the crosshairs are centred on the target too. Fire the first shot at 25 yards. Good luck.
 
Like 1899 said, I often do it like that and it usually takes me less than 10 shots to get to
where I want to be at 100. Heck, last week I used that method but started at 100 and 6 shots later I was 1.5" high and centered.
 
Put a target out to25 yards. Set your rifle up on some sandbags. Remove the bolt. Look down the bore from behind and move the rifle until the centre of the target is centred in the bore. Making sure not to bump the rifle, look through the scope to see where the crosshairs are. Adjust the scope until the crosshairs are centred on the target too. Fire the first shot at 25 yards. Good luck.

This is how it's done!
 
Once you've got 25, go to 50, 75, 100, +++. One shot at 100 on a solid and secure rest, move the cross hairs to the hole on the paper...or wherever you find it!
 
Once you've got 25, go to 50, 75, 100, +++. One shot at 100 on a solid and secure rest, move the cross hairs to the hole on the paper...or wherever you find it!

Haha...Let's see how I do. I wish I can create a tight group at 50ft first. Hopefully my new Stevens does not let me down this weekend! :eek:
 
I place the rifle on sandbags, remove the bolt, sight through the bore on something in the distance & then carefully look through the scope. You will "see" where the crosshairs are in comparison to the bore...

Carefully holding the rifle, you can now move the windage & elevation screws as required...

That should have you on paper @100... Keep in mind, if your NOT on paper with the 1st shot, don't continue to waste ammo! Your NOT on paper, so double check & move the target stand closer.

Cheers
Jay
 
After you are on the paper by manually bore sighting it( looking through the barrel as everyone mentioned) do what Super said. After your shot, make sure not to move the rifle, and adjust the elevation and windage until the crosshairs are exactly centered on the bullet hole where the shot you just fired hit. Now shoot again aiming at the bullseye.You should be right on target. If you did this at 50 yards, now do the same thing at 100yards, and you should only have minor adjustments.
 
After your shot, make sure not to move the rifle, and adjust the elevation and windage until the crosshairs are exactly centered on the bullet hole where the shot you just fired hit.

This is the single shot sighting procedure in theory and works if you can keep everything still while you adjust the scope. Realistically a few more rounds to verify and you should be done.
 
I use one of the Leupold bore sighters it attaches to the barrel with a magnet and has a scale that you look at and adjust your scope to dead center.

It isn't perfect but it gets me on paper with my first shot and I start shooting at 25 yards.
 
I prefer a bore-sighter that uses arbors that fit inside the bore. The image through the scope is repeatable with these, so if you record the position of the cross hair against the grid, you can easily refer to your notes to check the rifle's zero if it gets bumped, or goes through a long period where you have not used it. It is also useful if you shoot a variety of loads through the rifle, and these loads require different sight setting or if you use one scope on a number of rifles.
 
I find it is more foolproof to do it in a minimum number of shots if you reverse the process by starting at 200 yards with a spotter shooting at rocks etc. Get it on a 6 inch rick at 200 yards then you are guaranteed on paper.
 
After you are on the paper by manually bore sighting it( looking through the barrel as everyone mentioned) do what Super said. After your shot, make sure not to move the rifle, and adjust the elevation and windage until the crosshairs are exactly centered on the bullet hole where the shot you just fired hit. Now shoot again aiming at the bullseye.You should be right on target. If you did this at 50 yards, now do the same thing at 100yards, and you should only have minor adjustments.

I do this also , only at 200 yards, then check at 100 yards - usually takes no more than three shots!:)
Cat
 
4' x 4' sheet of ply wood at 100yds put a mark in the centre take 1 shot measure with a tape adjust accordingly i have done rifles in 2 shots this way, just make sure you have a good rest for the rifle.
 
Moving the crosshairs to the bullet hole after the initial shot is probably the quickest way to get where you want, and the method I use most. You must have the rifle held so it cannot move while you adjust your scope, and that can be a problem for some. Regards, Eagleye.
 
Sighting in

I would agree with Eagleye, but here's the kicker. This is the first shot out of a clean barrel. After all that's what we take hunting. You will find in most rifles the POI changes a bit as the barrel starts to foul and warm. So first shot out of a cold clean barrel is what counts.
Bill.
 
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