Favourite patch lube?

Frank, you formula sounds interesting. I want to start using a dryer patch. The lube I use now is too damp and I think it may be effecting my shooting. Well it is a good excuse anyway. I hope Nessy will post the famous "Moose Snot" formula.

SW

Edited to add: I found this on the Muzzleloading forum

Moose snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water to the pot so that the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will often be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a generous teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy, smooth and more smearable - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.


Moose milk

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using. Can be allowed to dry on dipped patching for a dry lube dry flat on waxed paper & dip twice for best saturation). Add ingredients in the following order and shake well after each is added.

Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphys Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.


Stumpy's Moose Milk

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

SW
 
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Crisco/beeswax is fine. I know some old-timers though who use only tallow with their beeswax, though I can't say for sure that it's better.

Tallow is easy though - just trim the fat off you unsalted meat, melt, strain, and mix with beeswax - then let cool.
 
Most of the lubes above sound like ones that would enhance fouling to me. In my experience the greasier the lube and the coarser the powder the more fouling I got. I now use 15% water soluable cutting oil and the rest water and can shoot all day without cleaning. For hunting I use a Fluid Film which is a light spray on grease. (use it because it does not dry out)
Various Crisco or tallow type lubes are ok for 5 or 10 shots or for lubing minie balls but definitely foul by the middle of a trail walk. Tallow/beeswax (actually bear fat/beeswax) I use only for lubing cartridge bullets.

cheers mooncoon
 
Crisko, old timers secret

Had a fellow from out west suggest Crisco as a patch lubricant. I use Traditions Wonderlube 1000 plus and I've found that it fouls after 8 or 10 shots. I use blackpowder, not pyrodex. I've never used Crisco as a patch lube; but if it fouls at the 8 to 10 shot mark, its no worse than what I'm using now. Its cheap and available. If a fellow can shoot all day without fouling his barrel, he must have a better formula than me.

Keep your powder dry, good shooting!
 
lube?

use spit, hoppes 9 plus or birchwood casey 77, you can get all kinds of trouble with all these formulas, if you have trouble setting your bullet from fouling your lube or your barrel is no good, you can shoot all day with these lubes, and never have a problem , wade
 
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The Moose Milk formula that I use is ;

13 oz water
3 oz water soluable cutting oil
1 oz Murphy's oil soap

The beauty of this formula is
You don't have to swab between shots, in fact you never have to swab. You can shoot until the cows come home without swabbing:D
Cheers nessy
 
If you use Hoppes 9 plus, the directions say to use as a patch lube and swab with a soaked patch between each shot - is this necessary, or can you skip the swabbing and just use as a patch lube?

Also, how "wet" should the patch be? Wouldn't want to overly wet the powder, right?
 
Correct, you don't have to swab between shots with Hoppes 9 plus.
A good way to tell if your patches are too wet is to squeeze them between your fingers, it should take quite a bit of pressure, another way is to look down the muzzle after you have short started the ball, and see how much lube has been squeezed out and coated the barrel :confused: , not sure if that makes sense.Experience will help, more reason to get out and shoot:D
Cheers nessy.
 
nessy357 said:
A good way to tell if your patches are too wet is to squeeze them between your fingers, it should take quite a bit of pressure,
Click to expand...

Do you mean it should take alot of finger pressure to make excess liquid squeeze out of the cloth?
 
Heffley Gun Lube
2 parts water
2 parts Palmolive Green Dish Soap(only this brand exactly)
1 part water soluble cutting oil
1 Part methyl hydrate
This lube works very well for 50 shots plus without swabbing barrel.
 
I use the same as Hefley Lube, but sub water for windshield washer fluid. Has worked for me for last 27 years in my same old T/C Hawkin. The yellow commercial lubes work ok but not in the cold.
 
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