Federal or Remington Brass, which is better

[New Camper]

Just got back from the range and got sub 3/4" 4 shot group from my 6.5X55 in a 700 Classic using Lapua brass and 140 gn NPs, IMR 7828 and WLR primers for a chrono'd 2890 fps from a 22" bbl and through an Oehler 35P. The bolt falls open and the primers aren't even flat. Next grain up gave another 50 fps but the groups opened up to over 1 1/4" still no pressure, but accuracy falling off.
I think I might like Lapua brass!!

Nice! I have yet to get a chronograph, but my Tikka has a 24" barrel. I've not loaded hot enough to make extraction in anyway abnormal: 46gr H4350, and 48gr H4831SC. Pressure sign indicated appears to be only a slightly more than normal flattening of the primer - it isn't squashed into the pocket or cratered though, and the bolt opens normally. The load with H4831SC seems to show the least pressure, but by slim margin visible to the naked eye. I hope to get a chronograph next week and find the velocity of these loads - I'd like to keep using them as accuracy is superb.. The rifle I am fortunate to find is not very fussy.

A question I have though is yes, these modern rifles are made to handle pressures of 270win, 280rem etc., but even in it's high quality, does Lapua produce 6.5X55 brass with modern pressures in mind, or as factory loads go, produce to the low pressure capacity of the two old military actions?

 

[Cleftwynd]

No matter what brand of brass you use, it will tell when it is being pushed too hard. Usually by loose primer pockets, but also with careful measurement of the head.

I don't usually push loads too hot, but have ran into brass that is too soft for many moderate loads. I really like Nosler brass, but in some chamberings it can't take many normal loads before the primers get loose. CCI primers at that.

The only rifle I push right to the limit is my 7mm STW, and use only Remington brass. I still don't get too many loads from my casings before I have to toss them, but it sure is fun seeing 140's moving along at 22-250 speeds and higher!!!

 

[Longshot338]

S&B is one of my favourites. Their .303 Brit reworks very nicely.

I also like PPU head-stamped brass. Also very consistent and it reworks perfectly with little stretch.

When I pop primers in both these cases, I find less visible residue in the pocket than in any other case I've reloaded so far. Very clean; often just 3 thin lines of carbon.

Big fan of S&B here; I also like reloading their 12ga Shotgun Hulls.

Alec

 

[New Camper]

S&B is one of my favourites. Their .303 Brit reworks very nicely.

I also like PPU head-stamped brass. Also very consistent and it reworks perfectly with little stretch.

When I pop primers in both these cases, I find less visible residue in the pocket than in any other case I've reloaded so far. Very clean; often just 3 thin lines of carbon.

Big fan of S&B here; I also like reloading their 12ga Shotgun Hulls.

Alec

The S&B 6.5X55 brass I have needs to have the primer pocket crimp trimmed of (I used my neck deburring tool effectively), but 222rem did not require this - maybe it's because of military caliber?? I found the same ease of cleaning as you mentioned as well, and it works nicely as well.

but it sure is fun seeing 140's moving along at 22-250 speeds and higher!!!

lol, not often heard of a heavy bullet being fired near 4000fps, I'd like to see the ballistics printout of that!

 

[Longshot338]

The S&B 6.5X55 brass I have needs to have the primer pocket crimp trimmed of (I used my neck deburring tool effectively), but 222rem did not require this - maybe it's because of military caliber?? I found the same ease of cleaning as you mentioned as well, and it works nicely as well.


lol, not often heard of a heavy bullet being fired near 4000fps, I'd like to see the ballistics printout of that!

I think you may be right. PPU and S&B cartridges stamped 7.62x51 NATO I had to deburr (I use a slot screwdriver). Their 303 Brit brass didn't however.

I have some PPU stamped .223Rem; I'll have to check if they crimped the primer on that stuff.

One of the biggest reasons I like S&B brass for my 303 is the thick rims the brass has. Very durable, and consistent in diameter and thickness whih is always nice in a rimmed cartridge.

 

[Cleftwynd]

lol, not often heard of a heavy bullet being fired near 4000fps, I'd like to see the ballistics printout of that!

Voere Titan II with a 30" Douglass barrel, built by Ralf Martini. 140 grain flat base bullets, boat tails won't quite make it. Consistently over 3900, never a stiff bolt, but on second firing primers get rather loose. Once I get the rifle back I will post some results from the 35p. It needed another barrel, lol.

 

[bigedp51]

I'm surprised Lapua ranked so poorly. I knew Norma made good brass, but it has always been conceded as being close to par with Lapua. That's discouraging since I bought a couple hundred of Lapua brass when I could have paid less for Remington. I hope the cost difference is in consistency, for my application I'd still choose the Lapua for that reason. Don't full length resize them either... but my 222, Winchester brass is kicking after reloaded five times and FL each time. I see on the Hornady site, the headspace gauge kit comes with bushings that would do most of what I reload. So what I'd be getting for $50 is the "caliper" with the bushings? all that's needed to measure headspace for common calibers?

1. The case test I posted did not state what the headspace of the rifle was set at.
2. The press was set to have the die make hard contact with the shell holder and cam over. (maximum resizing)
3. No adjustment was made to the resizing die for minimum shoulder bump, meaning only pushing the shoulder of the case back .001 to .002. (and we have no idea how much actual resizing and pushing the shoulder back was actually done, so at best it was a ball park test)
4. The Lapua brass came in 2nd place for case life longevity.
5. The plated case should not be in the same test, these cases will have less friction and slide to the rear further before the case grips the chamber walls. Meaning they will act like cases that have lube or oil on them.

Therefore in this test Norma was number 1 and Lapua was number 2 in case life longevity.
In case uniformity, quality and accuracy Lapua is rated number one by the majority of competitive shooters. The people who don't want to spend the money on Lapua brass rate Winchester cases very high on the list and the "best buy".

 

[New Camper]

1. The case test I posted did not state what the headspace of the rifle was set at.
2. The press was set to have the die make hard contact with the shell holder and cam over. (maximum resizing)
3. No adjustment was made to the resizing die for minimum shoulder bump, meaning only pushing the shoulder of the case back .001 to .002. (and we have no idea how much actual resizing and pushing the shoulder back was actually done, so at best it was a ball park test)
4. The Lapua brass came in 2nd place for case life longevity.
5. The plated case should not be in the same test, these cases will have less friction and slide to the rear further before the case grips the chamber walls. Meaning they will act like cases that have lube or oil on them.

Therefore in this test Norma was number 1 and Lapua was number 2 in case life longevity.
In case uniformity, quality and accuracy Lapua is rated number one by the majority of competitive shooters. The people who don't want to spend the money on Lapua brass rate Winchester cases very high on the list and the "best buy".

Thank you; I also missed that point about the nickel plated cases.

Voere Titan II with a 30" Douglass barrel, built by Ralf Martini. 140 grain flat base bullets, boat tails won't quite make it. Consistently over 3900, never a stiff bolt, but on second firing primers get rather loose. Once I get the rifle back I will post some results from the 35p. It needed another barrel, lol.

Curious that.... How many rounds of fun will one barrel provide?