Feeding Problem 10/22 T1 25 Help Please

Sly Old Fox

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I have two Tactical T1 25 magazines, with the adjustments.

I can't seem to get the 4 screw adjusted right to feed correctly. It will feed the 6 dummy aluminium rounds OK when I release the breach block and the first round of several live rounds.

BUT, after firing the 1st chamabered round, I get a jam.

The 2rd and 3rd images show the jam and the last two images show the rounds which jammed. The bullet shows the lead shaving cut by the bottom of the chamber when the jam occurs.

The rifle cycles 10 round Ruger mags with no problem.

I had the barrel off the action, looked in to see how the breach block was clearing the lips of the T1 25 mags, in fact I used a vernier caliper on the Ruger mags and tried ro set the adjustment screws this wsay. No joy!

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I tightened them so the mag didn't move and then and then allowed some slack. It seemed to work. I have also noticed that mine jams all the time if I use copper plated bullets. Lead cycle without issues. my 2 cents.
 
I experienced VERY similar issued with my TI25 mags. It was a matter of fine tuning. Hard to say exactly which way you need to "tune" though as every rifle is different. I did something similar to what DMenshaw mentioned and all 4 of mine are now functioning flawlessly.

Now, one thing I DID do is change FROM lead to copper on the bullet and it seems to help a lot for my gun.

Judging by your pictures it almost looks like you don't have the mag high enough in the well???

EDIT: one more thing... I recently was having issues and the cause was not the mags. It was the action itself. Dirty as sh!t... I tore the gun down completely and used brake cleaner to get all the gak out of there. Worked wonders.
 
Radius the lower corner of the extractor hook. Makes it a little easier for the cartridge rim to slide up the bolt face.
 
SOF here and after only one response, I bumped.:eek:

Thanks for the new responses. One problem that I have is in testing a mag, fine tuning it, (?) it is only safe to do it at our cottage where I can step outside the basement, then seat the mag for a test and fire. We will not be back up to the cottage until about the 2nd week of January. Thus I want to have as much info on hand as possible.

By the way, the rifle is a clean, has VQ hammer, extractor, etc. with the Dremel trick done. However. the steel pins in this rifle are loose enough to drop out by themselves when the trigger group is removed. The rifle functions flawlessly with the Ruger 10 round mags.

Even now, there is a question, the first responder said lead is best while another poster likes copper clad bullet. I do have some CC! copper clad so I will try everything. :confused:

So please, others who read this thread, don't hold back. Any and all advice is most welcome and hopefully, I will solve the problem.
Thk

One thing I promise is that if I can work it out, I will write about, being the verbose guy that I am.;)
 
I've never used the T1 mags. But on many rimfire mags I have found there can be an accumulation of wax on the front portion of mag where the nose of the bullet impacts. The wax causes the nose of the bullets to drag and can affect feeding.
 
I've never used the T1 mags. But on many rimfire mags I have found there can be an accumulation of wax on the front portion of mag where the nose of the bullet impacts. The wax causes the nose of the bullets to drag and can affect feeding.


Thats a good point. Also, if you have been using them when the weather is pretty warm, the wax tends to melt easily and gums up the mags. When shooting with lead bullets I actually take a cooler out with ice packs in it and keep my ammo in there on really hot days.

The TI's are strip-able though, so you can clean them.


To bad you aren't closer SOF, I was out back testing my 10.22 with its latest config today.. ;)

Finally got a nice working 50 round drum mag!! weee!!!!!!!! :cool:
 
My letter from Tacticalinc on my T!-25 mags

Further to all of the above, before Christmas, I sent an email to the comapany and received the following response today.

Quote:
Hi Don,


Without seeing it, its difficult to determine what's off but the range of adjustment will allow it to fit any rifle that we have encountered to date. Some of the very tightly chambered after market barrels are much more difficult but factory barrel rifles will always work.


There are 4 main steps to getting the mags dialed in. First, with the receiver out of the stock, you have to set the 2 screws on the right side of the receiver.


Then you adjust the screws on the left side of the receiver to compliment the already set height of the right side screws.


Then you can adjust BOTH fronts and BOTH rear screws in the same amount in opposite directions to set feed angle.


Last adjustment is to MINIMALLY change the angle of the follower if you want the feed angle to go down. Using a file, you can reduce the feed angle if necessary.


The factory 10 round mag has the advantage of having each round in its own chamber, which eliminates the stacked rims in the mag. Similarly, the ammo you use will also change the feed angle since the sum of the bullets will also increase or decrease the feed angle based on the bullet shape.


Unfortunately since we don't sell or ship internationally, you would not have been able to purchase the mags directly from us so I am unable to offer a store credit if you wanted to ship the mags back.


If I can answer any questions, please let me know and I'll do what I can to help.


Thanks
Unquote

As no mention is made in the above of whether the writer was able to get into this CGN forum, even with the URL for my original post, I responded tonight to him two images that I had posted. I also thanked him for even bringing up the matter of credit and told him that I would much prefer to get the mags going.

So, about the second week of January, I will be in a position to again try to get the mags adjusted with live ammo and see what happens.

Have a Good New Year
 
SOF the response I got from TI was similar except they told me to adjust the screws to .003" clearance with the reciever (right side first, then left) and then file down the follower until you get the feed angle where you want it. Right now it looks like the feed angle is to high. Try as much different ammo as you can first, but filing down the angle on the follower while keeping it flat may be necessary. I couldnt get them to reliably load and feed 25 rds. after much tinkering so I sent mine back. For the money I spent I had higher expectations. Im trying out some BC steel lips tomorrow, hopefully theyre as good as my old promags
 
Friday Jan. 6th

I had a short response from my last email to the company which was some what confusing. So, I sent the teckie two of the images from my OP and asked for clarification. I expect a response at any time.

I have combed through the 10/22 threads this morning and have found that new CGNer "gwilder" made a very interesting comment on another thread concerning barrel attachment.

When I get the response to my last email, I will post our exchange, hopefully in a coherent fashion.

As I have said, I can't do any work on this problem until I am able to load and fire live ammo which will be hopefully arround the 14th of this month.
 
It definitely looks as if your feed path is too steep. Without looking at the mag i would suggest testing by lowering the front set screws at 002"-003" increments until feeding corrected. But im guessing you've tried... We have not had any issues with our shipments over the last year so it would be hard for me to say without seeing if there was a flaw in the mag... pictures dont really show anything!
 
I'm glad I'm not the only person with the same problem as you.

the angle of the feed lips is way too steep and no amount of adjustment can make them right. you're confined to the space inside to magwell and the contact of the nipples that hold the magazine....which means you can only make very minor adjustments

link to my thread.....

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1106847-Tactical-Innovations-10-22-25-rd-mags

I know a lot of people rave about these mags but I find them to be no better than Butler Creek mags that cost half as much and need no adjustments

my belief is all 25 round mags are hit and miss and the only real reliable mag in the rotary 10 rounder

I would love to try the BX-25 because it's factory Ruger and has the same angle feed lips as the original rotary mags.....but we live in Canada
 
I'm glad I'm not the only person with the same problem as you.

the angle of the feed lips is way too steep and no amount of adjustment can make them right. you're confined to the space inside to magwell and the contact of the nipples that hold the magazine....which means you can only make very minor adjustments

link to my thread.....

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1106847-Tactical-Innovations-10-22-25-rd-mags

I know a lot of people rave about these mags but I find them to be no better than Butler Creek mags that cost half as much and need no adjustments

my belief is all 25 round mags are hit and miss and the only real reliable mag in the rotary 10 rounder

I would love to try the BX-25 because it's factory Ruger and has the same angle feed lips as the original rotary mags.....but we live in Canada
The BX 25 works flawlessly , just like the 10 rnder
 
The BX 25 works flawlessly , just like the 10 rnder

We have also had no problem with BC Steel Lips mags... keep them clean and they run flawlessly... we went through a brick yesterday without a single jam... but I'm guessing that part of the OP's problem were those crappy Winchester Wildcat loads.
 
We have also had no problem with BC Steel Lips mags... keep them clean and they run flawlessly... we went through a brick yesterday without a single jam... but I'm guessing that part of the OP's problem were those crappy Winchester Wildcat loads.
I used a brick of cci ,375 rnd and 200 winchester super x , first rnd would fire, then the next 4 or 5 would get bent ( like the photos of origional poster) then I would get a good run of 10 then another jam and so on. I tryed loading only 20 and that worked a little diff. I think the feed ramp is causing the problems. If you look at the ruger mag feeding, it feeds straight out. If you look at the bC mag feeding , it kind of turns on the way out. It looks as if the bullit is bouncing off the feed lips.
 
There was a video of a chap that took the receiver apart and filed the one angled block
slightly to allow the round tapered button to go in slightly further allowing the mag
to be pushed forward slightly more to firm and position it better.
Not sure if this tactic will work on this issue the Stuck Ole Feller has?
 
if the back of the feed lips that holds the rim of the bullet was just ever so slightly higher they might work. the feed lips hold the round much lower around the rim than a Ruger rotary mag

I've adjusted the TI25 mags to get the minimum amount of shaving when feeding into the chamber.....any steeper of an angle bends the bullet....and any flatter gets more shaving

this is as close to adjusting them as I can get because of the two contact points that hold the magazine, the confines of the magwell, and the angle of the feed lips.

mostly the angle of the feed lips....you're trying to feed a long bullet at an angle that isn't gonna work. you're either gonna hit the top of the chamber and bend the bullet, or scrape the bottom edge of the chamber and get shavings

this is worse when the mag is fully loaded and the rounds are stacked at an angle more

I'm gonna try some different ammo. I've been using Winchester M-22 which have a lot of wax on them and when I measure the diameter of the bullet it's about .002" more than a federal lead nose that doesn't have a wax coating

I'm sure CCI mini mags would have better success in these mags as well
 
I too wrote an email to the company explaining my adjusting problems.

I'm in the middle....any steeper and the bullet hits the barrel hood and bends....any lower and the bullet scrapes on the edge. I'm at a compromise between the two. a little scraping and a little bending of each round

there's just no way around it. the feed angle is too steep. more accurately the back of the feed lips holds the rim too low compared to all other mags I compare it to

in theory the adjusting screws are a great idea. in reality they don't work because there's three things fighting against you....

1. the steep feed angle....there's not enough adjustment to make them flat enough to work
2. the two contact points that hold the mag in place..... no matter what they still have to contact the corresponding points on the mag. that leaves you only wiggle room
3. the limited space of the magwell

I also questioned their website description of how the mags come adjusted from the factory and can be used as is right out of the package. both of mine had the screws all the way in and no where near being adjusted

after 500 rounds of various types of ammo and a weekend of adjusting them I can only get sporadic reliability from them. sometimes I can get a whole mag to work but more often I get an average of 2 or 3 jams per mag

to all those that say they never had a single problem with these mags I say all the better to you.....me on the other hand cannot get these things to work no matter what.

I'm a Tool and Die maker / machinist and I work on way more complicated pieces of machinery and equipment. I make plastic injection moulds sometimes to within .0005" tolerance. I'm also in the manufacturing industry

I just can't see how a product like this can make it out into the market and especially at that price. to me they aren't any better than Butler Creek steel lip mags that cost half as much and need no adjustment. the adjustment feature is just a gimmick
 
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