Feinwerkbau Sport 127
- Thread starter Kevan
- Start date
Seals (1 breech seal, 1 piston seal) and a spring, can be got from James Macarri (probably spelled wrong) online. Airrifleheadquarters.com
Get some moly and some tar for the spring, while you are ordering things.
Gonna need to rig yourself some form of a spring compressor for the installation. It's fiddly enough with two hands, let alone trying to do it with one, while trying to hold down enough preload to take out a tooth or two. Couple parts are tough to get and easy to wreck, within the rear end of those. Easy to strip out the breech screw that hold the rear block in, if it's not well and truly aligned when starting, and THAT is the best reason to hack together a compressor, if you needed one.
I've done one or two. Buttoned the piston on one that needed it, as the piston had graunched against the cylinder, aft of the area that the piston seal itself rode upon. Turned out nice.
Cheers
Trev
Get some moly and some tar for the spring, while you are ordering things.
Gonna need to rig yourself some form of a spring compressor for the installation. It's fiddly enough with two hands, let alone trying to do it with one, while trying to hold down enough preload to take out a tooth or two. Couple parts are tough to get and easy to wreck, within the rear end of those. Easy to strip out the breech screw that hold the rear block in, if it's not well and truly aligned when starting, and THAT is the best reason to hack together a compressor, if you needed one.
I've done one or two. Buttoned the piston on one that needed it, as the piston had graunched against the cylinder, aft of the area that the piston seal itself rode upon. Turned out nice.
Cheers
Trev
Everything Trevj said x2. Go to JM for parts and lube (moly + tar). His old school kit would make installation easier as the factory spring is said to have a bit of preload. The rear block is alloy so careful with the bolt that holds it in - don't strip it.
I've rebuilt dozens of the FWB 12x sporters, both early and late models, and have never come across one with an alloy triggerblock/rearblock. Was this alloy block perhaps an aftermarket mod?
To the OP - when disassembling and re-assembling, you must be careful not to damage the safety button. A stepped block will be needed to prevent any damage to the button.
As well, when re-assembling, the safety has to be held in position against spring tension within it's cutout in the trigger block, while it is inserted into the main tube. I have seen a couple websites that recommend using vise-grips to hold the safety bar in position, and the very idea of doing that makes me cringe. What I use, is a nylon zip tie, and when the trigger block has been inserted as far as it will go with the zip tie in place, I clip the zip tie off, and proceed. Quick, easy, and no tool marks to mar your FWB.
There is a fair bit of info online about the FWB guns, if you spend some time looking.
I did two that were polar opposites. One looked like it was stored under the dock at the lake, but was nearly pristine inside. The other was in great shape outside, but graunched inside. That was why I did as much reading as I did about them.
They were pretty much THE original Adult air rifle, and I wanted one since I was a kid. OK, since I was a much younger kid.
I ended up making a few parts,rebuilding a few others, and generally going through those two. The zip tie for the safety is a good idea. Pretty sure I used black tape then slid everything in enough to remove the tape, but it was a while back. I built a jury-rig of a compressor to deal with the alignment of all the fiddly bits, so that I could get it all inside without too much stress (on me). Cut straight to the chase and start out by building or buying a compressor, and you will be ahead of the game. Lots of pictures online to copy from.
Cheers
Trev
I did two that were polar opposites. One looked like it was stored under the dock at the lake, but was nearly pristine inside. The other was in great shape outside, but graunched inside. That was why I did as much reading as I did about them.
They were pretty much THE original Adult air rifle, and I wanted one since I was a kid. OK, since I was a much younger kid.
I ended up making a few parts,rebuilding a few others, and generally going through those two. The zip tie for the safety is a good idea. Pretty sure I used black tape then slid everything in enough to remove the tape, but it was a while back. I built a jury-rig of a compressor to deal with the alignment of all the fiddly bits, so that I could get it all inside without too much stress (on me). Cut straight to the chase and start out by building or buying a compressor, and you will be ahead of the game. Lots of pictures online to copy from.
Cheers
Trev
Hit, among others, the Yellow Forum, and the American Vintage Airguns forum, and have a look around.
When their status as a 'firearm' was decreed, I saw prices a slow as $50, and have seen guys asking as much as $1K, which I really doubt they ever got.
To give you a better answer would be a guess only, on my part. Hit the forums, esp the ones with a buy and sell, and do some searches and read.
Cheers
Trev
When their status as a 'firearm' was decreed, I saw prices a slow as $50, and have seen guys asking as much as $1K, which I really doubt they ever got.
To give you a better answer would be a guess only, on my part. Hit the forums, esp the ones with a buy and sell, and do some searches and read.
Cheers
Trev
There were several variations of the FWB 12x sporters produced, so obviously, the variant that you have will also play a part in it's value.
The bottom of the line 12x Standard generally goes in the $250 to $350 range. Beech stock, no PG cap, no buttpad, no sling swivels, fixed post front sight.
The 12x Deluxe versions with the beech stock, will generally fetch in the $400 to $500 range. PG cap and buttpad, both with white-line spacers, sling swivels, globe front sight with interchangeable elements. Some will have a palm swell in the PG, some will not.
The 12x Deluxe with walnut stock will usually be priced around $500 to $650 depending on the degree of figure in the wood. Same features as the beech stocked versions, except that all the walnut stocks (TMK) had the palm swell.
The 12x Custom Select, with highly figured, custom made stock can fetch anywhere from $750 and up, depending on the degree of figure in the stock. The Custom Select could be had in Fancy, and Extra Fancy degrees of stock figure, and while these are seldom seen for sale, can fetch well over $1000. With these versions, open sights were not generally included, as the stocks were designed with high combs intended for use with scopes.
An FWB 12x sporter priced at $50? I have yet to see one, but I can guarantee you one thing, if ever I did, it would be sold in the blink of an eye....
.Not entirely sure what you are referring to here with regards to their being "decreed as a firearm", and that condition affecting the prices. They had always required either an FAC or PAL to purchase.
I bought both a 124D and a 127D back in the late 70s, and both required an FAC, and both were recorded in the store's ledger (as "firearms").
The advent of the LGR changed nothing, other than the requirement to register, and the subsequent need to go through the motions of the transfer when changing hands.
The two that sold for $50 each, that I know of, were sold by a guy that was not a PAL/POL holder, and was not going to be. This took place as the LGR was coming in to effect, and was being well publicized.
The were a liability to him, I don't know the rest of the story, except that they sold very quickly, when the price was named. Not a representative price, but a true story, none the less.
Cheers
Trev
Not sure how you made out with this project Kevan, but I found all the parts I needed for a Crossman
project from Del Selin in Vernon.
Not sure if his secret stashes will reveal which it is you are seeking, but go pester'im...... : )
Cheers.
