Field report: breaking in Baikal MP-153

aridan said:
You mean honing the end of the barrel? I haven't heard that one before, thanks. The one I've heard though was dry-firing with snap caps, to let all parts adjust by wear to where they're supposed to be after break-in.

Today I took my Baikal apart and saw a lot of grinding marks on the inside of the receiver and the bolt.I used 1500 grit sandpaper and gun oil to polish those areas. I then re-cleaned & lubed the gun with Ballistol, paying special attention to the extractors. Yesterday, I couldn't dry-fire without the snap cap staying in the chamber - the extractors were not working - and often there was no feed from the mag. Today, it cycled perfectly. I did it like 50-60times. By the end of my 'jerking off', I suddently noticed the bolt moving much smoother than before.

I'm looking forward to a real test tomorrow or Wednesday. Thanks for all the help!
Click to expand...

Actually, is to hone the barrel end where the lug on the bolt made contact.

Not sure how to explain but I will try to take a pic to show you.

I have one broken in and a brand new never fired Mp153 in the safe I will try to take some picture to show the difference.

Basically the idea is to mate the lug of the bolt with the barrel (lock lug) by honing it (never use a dremel tool) that replaces the firing rds procedure.

Also, if you choose go with firing it break-in method don't use any gun oil or lubricant where the lock lug meets the barrel for the first 50 rds or so because you want to mate those two part.

I think I should call it more or less deburring more than honing but never grinding (no files / dremel or grinder of any kind should be use)!
 
I'm intrigued, pls. post pictures. What tool do you use for honing? - Please don't say 'a hone', I don't know what it is! What do you mean, no Dremel? I Dremel everything! ;)
 
You should see the relation between the lock lug on the bolt and where it make contact with the barrel in these pics:

Bolt Closed lug extended and lock the bolt in place:
MP153006.jpg



Bolt Opened lug recessed and unlock the action:
MP153005.jpg


First of all slowing release the bolt and when its about 90% of the travel let go your finger and see if the bolt close if it does that means the bolt is closing smoothly and there shouldn't be any problem cycle very light load other wise take the gun apart.



This is the recessed area on the barrel where the lug from the bolt make contact with
MP153001.jpg


You can feel the edge if there is any rough edges which you will be smooth it out by using 600 grits wet sand paper wrap around a pencil or rod easier for you to take the rough edges off (where the tip of the pen is).

Most likely you will be safe as long as you are doing this hand and it shouldn't takes you no more than 5 mins.

Next check the lug lock on the bolt
MP153004.jpg


You can do the same thing to the very edge of the lock lug but remember use your hand to take the rough edges off only and "DO NOT" reduce the size or thin the surface area of the lug (chances is unlikely if you do this by hand but just a reminder).

After smoothing out rough edges on both part clean as usual and assemble the gun and do the slow bolt release test again and you should see some difference there.

Try it out and let me know if it works for you.
 
Thank you, great pictures & explanation! I did notice some wear on the locking block & polished it with 1500 grit with Ballistol - I know that doesn't remove much, but I wanted to be on the safe side. But I didn't notice the wear on the barrel, thanks for pointing this out. I'll try & report. ;)
 
aridan said:
Thank you, great pictures & explanation! I did notice some wear on the locking block & polished it with 1500 grit with Ballistol - I know that doesn't remove much, but I wanted to be on the safe side. But I didn't notice the wear on the barrel, thanks for pointing this out. I'll try & report. ;)
Click to expand...
Welcome anytime!

Just remember the task is to smooth the rough edge (deburring) and not remove a massive material.

Also,you might want to smooth it a little (polish) the inside surface of the barrel where the lock lug slide / glide over it should help as well.

The whole idea is to polish / smooth up the action thus = to break-in procedure.

That's why on the high end firearms you hardly ever had to do anything before it works fine because a lot of hand labour work has already been done at the factory to smooth / polish the action out (but it adds to the price tag which you are paying for).

LMK how it turn out!

Cheers;)
 
I just got back from the range, and am happy to report that no further break-in is required. I shot 20 of 3" 1-5/8Oz, then 20 of 2-3/4" 1-3/8Oz, all 40 functioned flawlessly. I then went back to my dreaded 1-1/4Oz loads, shot a full box with only one stovepipe at the beginning. I'm a happy man! I think the re-cleaning I did yesterday also helped, especially the extractor part - I only see very small marks on ejected shells.

My big thanks to all for suggestions & help!

P.S. I had a chance to shoot Benelli M2, M4, and SuperNova this past weekend. I was considering these before I got my Baikal. I am extremely happy with the decision I made & the $$ saved for more cool toys.
 
Good stuff!

Glad to hear your Baikal is working great for you, you will be pleased for its performance especially the price tag!:D

Just pay attention to the magazine spring retainer its prone to break and many people has replace theirs with Remington 870 metal type spring retainer (there are two types for 870 some plastic some metal).

I really like the M4 but can't justified the price tag for a tactical shotgun and have bought a Beretta 1201FP its a Benelli M1 under Beretta skin (Beretta owns Benelli and they share the same inertia operate and many parts are interchangeable between the M1 Super 90 (prohibited) and the Beretta 1201FP but the 1201FP with a 20" barrel being non-restricted:D
 
Field trials

After reading this thread, I applied the technique posted by Spcamno before attempting to fire.
Today, I fired about 50+ rounds, got a deal on 3inch BBB that a guy wanted to get rid of. Mixed into the break in were several rounds of 2 3/4 1 1/8 ounce 7 1/2 trap loads. At the beginning they would not cycle but extract and re-chamber.
The few I fired after the 50 high brass loads almost ejected and were caught in the ejection port without ejecting. I take this as a good sign.

I've got 75 more rounds of 3 inch steel to go through but I am very pleased that there has not been a single stoppage with the higher brass hunting ammo. It would have pissed me right off to have paid as much as I did for a single shot.

Thanks for all the advice posted on this thread!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom