Tried to search this without success. Have a Richards stock for my CZ452 and am about to apply an oil finish. It is Claro walnt with what appears to be decent figure. I was planning to use liseed oil/turpentine combination applied hot as I have done before but am worried about the stock getting too dark if I just apply the oil. I am looking for advice on the use of a filler before the oil so the grain doesn't go too dark. Also any other tips that deal with oil finishes. I don't mind a lot of work as that's half the reason to do it in the first place. Any tips welcome. Thanks...Y
Filler for stock finish?
- Thread starter yippert
- Start date
stock filler
yippert: It is my opinion and it was recently reinforced from (of all things) the TV programme that deals with antiques (Roadshow) that the very worst thing you can do to a stock or fine furniture is use boiled linseed oil as a finish.
I recommend you start with a urethane based spar varnish thinned with mineral spririts. Once you have applied enough coats so you have a completly glazed finish you then sand it off using diluted spar varnish. At least a 4O % dilution. When you are done sanding let the sanding sludge remain on the stock until it is very hard and dry. It will not look good at this point.
Then you wet sand it down to the wood surface with a 320 or 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper with a lubricant consisting of linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wipe the lubricant off and set the stock aside for a few days. You should now have a stock that has the pores properly filled from the initial application of diluted spar varnish.
Over this you apply multiple, very thin coats of Tru-oil , Linspeed or Pro Custom stock finish. These are modified forms of tung oil or linseed which are meant to dry hard. Emphasis on DRY. Between each coat rub the previous coat down with a lubricated green Scotch bright pad. You wipe the residiual lubricating medium off between coats. You can do the final rubdown using a felt pad and rottenstone with a boiled linseed (diluted) lubricant or go to a white Scotch Bright pad with the same lubricant. When you are done you should see darn few if any open pores in the wood. And, you will have a dead smooth surface with no dust blemishes. When you throw the stock to shoulder you will feel the smoothness of the finish: it will be slippery under your cheek.
The only thing that beats it for a sealed finish is an epoxy treatment on a warmed stock and that's a whole different story.
You will note that boiled linseed is used in this process but it is not left on the stock. It is thoroughly wiped off between stages.
Boiled linseed oil or raw tung oil are not good finishes in themselves no matter what you may have been told. Both oils are hygroscopic, meaning they will absorb water. Not good for stock stability.
Figure close to thirty days to do it right.
yippert: It is my opinion and it was recently reinforced from (of all things) the TV programme that deals with antiques (Roadshow) that the very worst thing you can do to a stock or fine furniture is use boiled linseed oil as a finish.
I recommend you start with a urethane based spar varnish thinned with mineral spririts. Once you have applied enough coats so you have a completly glazed finish you then sand it off using diluted spar varnish. At least a 4O % dilution. When you are done sanding let the sanding sludge remain on the stock until it is very hard and dry. It will not look good at this point.
Then you wet sand it down to the wood surface with a 320 or 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper with a lubricant consisting of linseed oil and mineral spirits. Wipe the lubricant off and set the stock aside for a few days. You should now have a stock that has the pores properly filled from the initial application of diluted spar varnish.
Over this you apply multiple, very thin coats of Tru-oil , Linspeed or Pro Custom stock finish. These are modified forms of tung oil or linseed which are meant to dry hard. Emphasis on DRY. Between each coat rub the previous coat down with a lubricated green Scotch bright pad. You wipe the residiual lubricating medium off between coats. You can do the final rubdown using a felt pad and rottenstone with a boiled linseed (diluted) lubricant or go to a white Scotch Bright pad with the same lubricant. When you are done you should see darn few if any open pores in the wood. And, you will have a dead smooth surface with no dust blemishes. When you throw the stock to shoulder you will feel the smoothness of the finish: it will be slippery under your cheek.
The only thing that beats it for a sealed finish is an epoxy treatment on a warmed stock and that's a whole different story.
You will note that boiled linseed is used in this process but it is not left on the stock. It is thoroughly wiped off between stages.
Boiled linseed oil or raw tung oil are not good finishes in themselves no matter what you may have been told. Both oils are hygroscopic, meaning they will absorb water. Not good for stock stability.
Figure close to thirty days to do it right.
Try this. Brownells Accuglass with your choice or colour. Rub it into the grain until the open pores are well filled. Rub it in very good and leave very little remaining on the surface of the wood, a very thin coat is best. Let dry at least three days and then start cutting it down with 400 - 600 grit wet dry sandpaper (leave the paper dry and change the paper often). Polish the wood until it is very smooth and has a natural shine. Then apply tru oil or a automotive grade semi gloss laquer from a sray bomb. Lightly rub the finish down bewteen coats with 0000 steel wool to get a deep rich finish.
Finish
Thanks, Stocker, for the tips about the oil. Now that you mention it the stocks I have oil finished are pretty dark but as there is little if any figure to the factory walnut it isn't a big problem. This one is different with some nice tiger stripes so you have saved me a possible big goof there. Does the filler as applied in either of the above threads result in a finish that penetrates the wood rather than just being on the outside? I didn't want a hard external finish but rather a deeper one that won't chip or crack with use. I suspect that it would be deep but want to make sure before I start the process. I want to get it right on the first shot. Thanks again...Y
Thanks, Stocker, for the tips about the oil. Now that you mention it the stocks I have oil finished are pretty dark but as there is little if any figure to the factory walnut it isn't a big problem. This one is different with some nice tiger stripes so you have saved me a possible big goof there. Does the filler as applied in either of the above threads result in a finish that penetrates the wood rather than just being on the outside? I didn't want a hard external finish but rather a deeper one that won't chip or crack with use. I suspect that it would be deep but want to make sure before I start the process. I want to get it right on the first shot. Thanks again...Y
stock filling
yippert: Yes, the whole point of diluting the initial coats of spar urethane is to encourage penetration of the finish into the wood. The sludge or slurry you let dry on the stock will fill the pores. Allow ample time so it has dried hard. I actually use a panel scraper to remove the excess and it cuts the excess like glass. Unless you are very familiar with use of sharpened scrapers you will be better served by sanding. It will take 6 to 10 diluted coats to get full glaze up before you proceed to the slurry sanding and follow up sand down. The more time you allow between coats the harder the finish will be. You can force a finish with daily or even multiple coats daily but you don't get the same hardness to the finish. If I have to I can do a very nice finish in 10 or 12 days. It won't stand up like the same finish done over 20-30 days. I do a lot of them, some to the customers time line some to my time line. I let them know what they are getting when they want a rush job. The slower finish is more durable and seals better.
When I seal with epoxy I heat the stock to about 110-115 F over a long period of time . Say, most of a day in the heat box which also happens to be my meat/fish smoker. Air within the stock expands when heated and as it cools and contracts sucks applied epoxy into the wood. You could use Acra Glass resin without fiber as previously suggested or a top of the line marine grade epoxy. There is a long and careful sanding process when the epoxy cures and then application of finish over that to the desired degree and then a rub down. This is the ultimate wet weather finish but I usually only do it on my personal stocks as it takes time and effort and is not necessary for most users nor do they care to pay for the effort.
yippert: Yes, the whole point of diluting the initial coats of spar urethane is to encourage penetration of the finish into the wood. The sludge or slurry you let dry on the stock will fill the pores. Allow ample time so it has dried hard. I actually use a panel scraper to remove the excess and it cuts the excess like glass. Unless you are very familiar with use of sharpened scrapers you will be better served by sanding. It will take 6 to 10 diluted coats to get full glaze up before you proceed to the slurry sanding and follow up sand down. The more time you allow between coats the harder the finish will be. You can force a finish with daily or even multiple coats daily but you don't get the same hardness to the finish. If I have to I can do a very nice finish in 10 or 12 days. It won't stand up like the same finish done over 20-30 days. I do a lot of them, some to the customers time line some to my time line. I let them know what they are getting when they want a rush job. The slower finish is more durable and seals better.
When I seal with epoxy I heat the stock to about 110-115 F over a long period of time . Say, most of a day in the heat box which also happens to be my meat/fish smoker. Air within the stock expands when heated and as it cools and contracts sucks applied epoxy into the wood. You could use Acra Glass resin without fiber as previously suggested or a top of the line marine grade epoxy. There is a long and careful sanding process when the epoxy cures and then application of finish over that to the desired degree and then a rub down. This is the ultimate wet weather finish but I usually only do it on my personal stocks as it takes time and effort and is not necessary for most users nor do they care to pay for the effort.
stock filler
Why are you makeing so much work for yourself. Go get a bottle of Birchwood Casey stock filler and sealer,apply it to the stock.let it dry for 25 min. Clean off the excess, with fine steel wool. There you are done .
Why are you makeing so much work for yourself. Go get a bottle of Birchwood Casey stock filler and sealer,apply it to the stock.let it dry for 25 min. Clean off the excess, with fine steel wool. There you are done .
gunsrocky said:
Then leave it out in the rain for a week and then do again.
I you want a water-proof finish on a wood stock, you have to work for it.
After raising the grain 3-4 times, I seal my stocks with a solution of oil-based marine spar varnish(Interlux Schooner), Deft Marine Teak Oil and thinner. I let the stock soak for 10-12 hours, turning regularily. I then let it dry for at least a couple of weeks.
To fill, I wet sand as described by Stocker but I use the sealing solution.
I have hunted in snow/rain for up to two weeks with no water penetration. How can I tell, you ask??? The wood stays smooth.
if water gets into the wood, the grain will raise and the finish will become rough.
I fully intend to try the epoxy method because it will no doubt do a better sealing job than my method.
Last edited:
