Finally building my reloading room! (pic heavy) UPDATE #2

Looking good!
Hope I get to build myself a gun/reloading room some day.

You could also have build the framing "stepped" around the foundation wall.
Since you are building a bench in front you would not even see it.
That way you would have used the extra space and could still keep the existing flooring.
 
You have put a lot of work into this and it is shaping up nicely, and I for one can truly appreciate the level of work and pride you have put into this project. From the pictures it appears that air will be able to pass back and forth over the new wall into the cavity behind via the joist cavities. This air movement will still take place to some smaller degree when a ceiling is installed. It is unclear at this point whether that cavity will become a moisture issue, this will be dependant of the humidity level of the basement and how damp the exterior basement wall and floor gets from foundation leakage. Although it is to late now I may have been very tempted to have the existing foundation wall sprayed with 2 Ib. foam insulation including the header cavities, to the floor before the dry was applied. Once the foam is applied to at least a 3" thickness it not only insulates and air seals it also becomes a vapour barrier. So the foam application would have solved many issues with one shot also including inhibiting mouse movement. Header cavities are notorious air leakage and heat loss areas, and a great area for mice infiltration. The fact that you appear to have laminate flooring and it does not appear in the pictures to be moisture damaged is a very positive point as laminate flooring has zero moisture tolerance.
Anyways at this point all one can do is press on and see what develops or more importantly what does not develop. From the looks of your workmanship thus far I am sure it will great man cave reloading room when completed.
 
You have put a lot of work into this and it is shaping up nicely, and I for one can truly appreciate the level of work and pride you have put into this project. From the pictures it appears that air will be able to pass back and forth over the new wall into the cavity behind via the joist cavities. This air movement will still take place to some smaller degree when a ceiling is installed. It is unclear at this point whether that cavity will become a moisture issue, this will be dependant of the humidity level of the basement and how damp the exterior basement wall and floor gets from foundation leakage. Although it is to late now I may have been very tempted to have the existing foundation wall sprayed with 2 Ib. foam insulation including the header cavities, to the floor before the dry was applied. Once the foam is applied to at least a 3" thickness it not only insulates and air seals it also becomes a vapour barrier. So the foam application would have solved many issues with one shot also including inhibiting mouse movement. Header cavities are notorious air leakage and heat loss areas, and a great area for mice infiltration. The fact that you appear to have laminate flooring and it does not appear in the pictures to be moisture damaged is a very positive point as laminate flooring has zero moisture tolerance.
Anyways at this point all one can do is press on and see what develops or more importantly what does not develop. From the looks of your workmanship thus far I am sure it will great man cave reloading room when completed.

Thanks for the comments, I've put a lot of work into the house with a lot more to go still. I did look into spray foam but I couldn't afford the cost even though it's the proper way to do it. I've had 90% of the basement walls exposed since June 2017 to check for leaks in the foundation. Even in heavy rains there was nothing at the back surprisingly. I do however have a few small spots on the front sides of the house that leak. Your right the laminate flooring is horrible for moisture, Spilled a bit of water and within 15 minutes it started swelling.
 
You need a giant moose head hanging on the wall, what's wrong with you

Anyways, it looks nice. Is that 3/4 or 1 inch ply for your table? I'd double up where the presses go. I put 2 inches of plywood and then bolted the Lee plate to it, barely any movement even when I give'r on the press.
 
You need a giant moose head hanging on the wall, what's wrong with you

Anyways, it looks nice. Is that 3/4 or 1 inch ply for your table? I'd double up where the presses go. I put 2 inches of plywood and then bolted the Lee plate to it, barely any movement even when I give'r on the press.

Haha, a gaint moose head will take up to much room, maybe if he helps me reload.

its 3/4" ply and 1 1/8" particle board counter top. i can always slap another layer of 3/4" under both where the press or what ever will go.


Small update, got the floor cleaned up a bit and mounted 6x 4" led pot lights above the bench. not as bright as i was hoping but it will work once i get more lights for the main room.

20180204_195330.jpg
 
More progress!

- got some storage racks to pre-organize my mess until i decide where things go
- 4 of 5 presses have been mounted
- need to move the MEC jr because i can't lower the shot bottles (forgot it had that feature)
- broke my cheapy lee C press when it got knocked off the bench but not to worry as the classic cast is on it's way to replace it
- Exhaust system is mostly done minus the filter rack (slot cut into the 8x8 duct) and sealing the duct once it's finalized
















 
Great job!!

Just curious; why did you put the flex duct in the side of your toaster cover? Is it a convection and blowing out the side?
 
Great job!!

Just curious; why did you put the flex duct in the side of your toaster cover? Is it a convection and blowing out the side?

for any fumes from when the powder coating is baking. If you asking why it's on the side of the box as oppose to the top it's because i put the spin on collars before i built the box. It was built without planning it out so it made the most sense location wise.
 
for any fumes from when the powder coating is baking. If you asking why it's on the side of the box as oppose to the top it's because i put the spin on collars before i built the box. It was built without planning it out so it made the most sense location wise.

I get it. It did not make much sense to me first since hot air rises and thus the top would be a more logical spot.
How many cfm is your fan?
 
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