Finally done! Repro Longbranch No4 MkI* (T) First range day today!

flying pig said:
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The area under the rear pad on a Longbranch is unbelievably hard. I basically had to spot anneal it using HSS bits to get through even after piloting it with a masonry bit. .... and that metal there doesn't hold a candle to how hard that section of receiver is. These rifles really were built to last halfway to forever.
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Yes I had read about hard receivers somewhere too. I think Clive Law's book on the Canadian sniper rifle production even mentions blocks of serial numbers set aside for conversions at an earlier step on the production line because the workshop couldn't overcome the hardness.

Good to see Princess Auto's gauges have an afterlife.

Staking the screw heads was a postwar armourer's shop practise, not a wartime step. For the moment, I would suggest just using Loctite to see how the rifle settles down. The strain (as I recall) is on the front pad and screws, as the scope bucks up on recoil. You may expect to replace those screws in the future.

Good choice of donor rifle BTW. The hung trigger conversion gets around a lot of the unintentional inaccuracy in the MkI and MkI* design. That, and you haven't attacked a perfectly good wartime dated example - someone beat you to it. That said, don't expect MOA accuracy each and every time. The acceptance specification on all WWII sniper rifles is surprisingly loose. I would be more interested in hits on the Figure 11 humanoid target at the ranges according to the elevation knob on the scope rather than pin punches at short range.
 
Maple Leaf, you and I are on the same page. I didn't do everything 100% by the book, and loctite was one of the things I did differently.

I hadn't settled on this rifle until after I shot it. It already grouped about 25% tighter than my as issued '42 Longbranch. Using front rest and rear bag I was usually seeing around 2" at 100m, my as issued usually gets around 2.75-3" both with hand loads obviously. As long as I did my part it should shoot that well at least.
 
Very wonderful job. But I really think you forgot to mention the most important part!
The part about where your totally awesome wifey bought you the rifle for this project! ;)
Just teasing! :p
You really did do a great job hun! All your hard work really shows through.
 
flying pig said:
Maple Leaf, you and I are on the same page. I didn't do everything 100% by the book, and loctite was one of the things I did differently.

I hadn't settled on this rifle until after I shot it. It already grouped about 25% tighter than my as issued '42 Longbranch. Using front rest and rear bag I was usually seeing around 2" at 100m, my as issued usually gets around 2.75-3" both with hand loads obviously. As long as I did my part it should shoot that well at least.
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I can't wait for that range report!! In my experience after proper bedding, careful fitting of the wood and of course some good handloads as long as the bore is good you should be able to cut those groups in 1/2 or even better. I guess time will tell.

Even my no1 mk3* is a tack driver now after doing lots of fitting to the wood.
 
The rifle looks amazing and nice to see all that hard work has paid off. This has been a dream of mine for a long time since I don't have the funds to purchase a real one. Is it possible to post material list to set people like myself in the right direction to build ours.
Thanks for the post.
 
Absolutely, if there are no site rules against me posting the sources of parts and tools I will put them up as well.

From Tracey Tools in the UK:

2, 1/4 BSF taps. I used HSS taps but it has been suggested that carbon steel taps may be a good option given how brutal that receiver is to work with
3, 4BA taps
2, 3.7mm drill bits, harder the better. If you aren't good at sharpening bits and don't have two days to waste leaning on a drill press then you need better bits than HSS. Lots of extra bits are not a bad idea.
3, 3.0mm drill bits again cobalt or better
1, 1/4" drill bit
At least 2 and maybe 3, 5.3mm drill bits. Cobalt or better
I used a 1/8th masonry bit to pilot the 1/4 BSF hole in the rear pad. You can get them anywhere though.
Total bill from them was around $75 CDN including shipping and it was here in a few weeks.

Velmont Firearms in the UK had reproduction cheek rests and screws. I got my screws from them and the pad from a CGNer.

Turner Saddlery in the US builds repro '07 slings. They are a bit pricey but well worth it I hear. Cost $85 to my door.

The scope and mount came from Wheaty here on CGN. He was a great help and his advice on this build was very valuable. Had I listened to his instructions word for word I would have had a much easier time with the rear pad too. But I'm a bit bullheaded. Lol You will need a scope adjustment tool and lens caps as well. I'm also now wanting a repro scope tin. Then when I go to matches and I have to travel a fair distance I can use my CNo7 transit chest for the rifle and the tin to protect the scope and it will be only a few shots to verify my zero when they are back together.

The fasteners came from British Fasteners in the US. I ordered 6 of each, they aren't everyday sizes so extras can't hurt. Only downside was that they are stainless. But it's a repro anyway.
From them I ordered 6, 4BAx1" raised countersunk screws and later cut them to length
6, 4BAx1" countersunk screws. Total bill from them was about $20

You also need some good quality small files that file right up to their front edge. You will need wood carving tools for the cheek rest as well as sand paper from course to fine grain, 2 1/4" bolts for your body clp on the jig, a piece of 1x8 for the jig plate, and a couple chunks of 2x4. Also you need a jug of really good tapping and cutting oil. A really good friend of mine who is a wealth of metal and fabrication knowledge suggested that Rapid Tap oil is about as good as it gets for both drilling and tapping. I used it a lot on this project. You also absolutely need a drill press and some clamps to hold your jig down.

The rest is kind of up to you. I did a taboo and didn't use solder on the pads. I'm not going to say exactly what I did because if it doesn't work this weekend I don't want anyone else to make the same mistake.

I think that's everything.

Oh for the wood I use circa 1850 to strip. Then braekleen it to death. Pop out dents with a wet cloth and clothes iron. Then I stain it using water based stain followed by a good dunking in warm RLO. I think simple is often best.
 
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Thanks for all the compliments everyone.

Doug to say those articles are invaluable to a project like this is an understatement. I suggest anyone planning on going through with this read them until they are memorized, check and double check the finer points to make sure. I honestly read each step no less than 50 times before I started and probably another 10x while doing the conversion. Thanks for posting the links!
 
Pig that is a great finish to a long project. Well Done!!

I am impressed with the final look, wasn't sure when I saw the Pakistani wood at first,.... but all complete it looks beautiful and most of all purposeful, as the originals were inflicting losses and introducing additional stress while earning respect from a powerful enemy, taking away his freedom of movement while he felt he was not in contact. Bravo.

Can't wait to hear the range report.:canadaFlag:
 
Weird that they weren't working for you Ben? Must have been a glitch.

Anyway I braved our 80km/h winds and took it out to the pit today. I sighted in as best I could (forgot my scope tool sitting on the workbench so its not quite zero'd). I only took two different loads, one of 39grns H4895 under Hornady 174gr round nose and 39 grns H4895 under 174SMKs. I am very pleased with how it performed, what a pussycat to shoot. I have a feeling my fiancee is going to like this one (maybe I better keep it from her!).

Keep in mind that it was so windy it was brutal to hold steady, even with front and rear bag. Wind coming in at 10:00. These groups were tiny compared to with my Ross MkIII sporter or my M1917 which I also shot today. Best group with the M1917 for comparison was about 6", but it is a new rifle to me still too and was its first day out too. Enough of the excuses as to why I'm a lousy shot heres the pics...


First group after I was able to somewhat zero it:



Second group (whats with the flyer?):



300m on the steel plate with the round nose load:



7 shot 300m group with the last of my SMK loaded ammo:



Seems like the SMKs must be shooting a little slower than the RNs? They were hitting at POA and the SMKs about 6" lower at the 300m mark.

What do you guys think?

All in all I am in love with this new toy. By far my favorite milsurp to shoot. Didn't leave me much ammo to practice with the Ross with that's for sure!

Oh and the bearing retaining compound I used under the pads seems to be good so far. No movement of POI at all from where I first set it and I shot 50rds through it today. I'm hoping it stays put but I guess only time will tell. Also the repro scope seems to work flawlessly, thanks Wheaty, you're the man!
 
Fantastic project, probably better than having the real thing, to me - I would hesitate to fire the 'real' thing due to the crazy value they have.

PS - If you were really concerned about the stainless fasteners, they could be nitro carburized, that'd make them black, forever. Alternatively they could be painted with Armacoat.
 
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