Finally got a day out with my SKS!

That stock is a thing of beauty!! I may have to pick up another SKS just to put it in that stock!!!

If you're looking for some decent accuracy, get rid of the surplus ammo and go with some good hunting rounds. You will be amazed at the difference.
 
ghostntheshell said:
Respectfully, if this was at 100 yards, I call poppy ####.
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Dweano said:
0.5 group with irons?!?!?!? Holy I am impressed...was that at 100yards? I don't know if I could do that at 25 yards haha
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Group was at 50m. The place I'm going all the deer would be taken in 50m or less essentially, 50m zero makes me pretty comfortable for 1-100m shots.
I replaced the rear sight with a williams peep sight and that has helped tremendously.
 
Mine is. I took the bayonet off but the previous owner had it on. Just a small grooved milled out. Doesn't affect me much. Only bad thing is I was toying with the idea of putting sling studs in and the center is now milled out but I am sure a spacer would work just fine
 
ghostntheshell said:
Also: I have gone through a crate of the 7.62x39 surplus without a spec of rust in a few rifles.
I use the boiling water method. Much cheaper than using a can of WD-40 ;)

Research the different methods, but the boiling water method just makes sense.
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I've pH tested the water after rinsing with boiling water, and the water is acidic. There are vids of kids cleaning AK's in Africa using a bucket of water and a rag, using the rag to squeeze water into the action.. They're pretty much just putting diluted acid on everything. I haven't heard of ammonia being used for this, but I would imagine it'll neutralize the acid and produce ammonium salts, just the same as using things like baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, caustic soda (lye, sodium hydroxide) and others. Caustic soda method is probably the cheapest and does the best/fastest job of neutralizing the acid, and rinses easily off metals.

Just don't use too much ... caustic soda is highly reactive in any concentration. Use very very little, such as 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. Buy some pH test strips (they're like, $1 for a pack of 100 on ebay) and use a pH of 8.5-9.0 to rinse with. 9 is safe enough for your hands without needing vinegar to rinse with after.
 
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Jaydam said:
I've pH tested the water after rinsing with boiling water, and the water is acidic. There are vids of kids cleaning AK's in Africa using a bucket of water and a rag, using the rag to squeeze water into the action.. They're pretty much just putting diluted acid on everything. I haven't heard of ammonia being used for this, but I would imagine it'll neutralize the acid and produce ammonium salts, just the same as using things like baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, caustic soda (lye, sodium hydroxide) and others. Caustic soda method is probably the cheapest and does the best/fastest job of neutralizing the acid, and rinses easily off metals.

Just don't use too much ... caustic soda is highly reactive in any concentration. Use very very little, such as 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. Buy some pH test strips (they're like, $1 for a pack of 100 on ebay) and use a pH of 8.5-9.0 to rinse with. 9 is safe enough for your hands without needing vinegar to rinse with after.
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It's really not that scientific for me.

Take the bolt out. Boiling water down the barrel, into the gas chamber, all over the bolt (out of the rifle) - patches / brush, hoppes oil to finish.
I've dont this on many SKS's -thousands of rounds, all corrosive ammo. They have sat for months between shootings / cleanings - and no rust.
Takes very little time really.

But as the saying goes, to each their own!
 
Great rife, how did this get to cleaning?

How I do it with my vz and my sks's . Boiling water down barrel and onto everything in a bucket. Wipe dry. Gun solvent on everything and barrel. Wipe down. Boiling water poured down barrel and dried aswell as all parts not in a bucket this time. Everything is wiped dry. (Now super damn clean). Then oil and wiped down.
 
I got a question. What about the trigger group? Does that need to be taken out and cleaned? I find it hard to believe that corrosive salts from the gas system gets all the way down there?
 
bp2626 said:
Group was at 50m. The place I'm going all the deer would be taken in 50m or less essentially, 50m zero makes me pretty comfortable for 1-100m shots.
I replaced the rear sight with a williams peep sight and that has helped tremendously.
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Sounds like we found Caramel's brother from Vancouver. Everything they shoot is sub MOA. HAHA
 
ghostntheshell said:
It's really not that scientific for me.

Take the bolt out. Boiling water down the barrel, into the gas chamber, all over the bolt (out of the rifle) - patches / brush, hoppes oil to finish.
I've dont this on many SKS's -thousands of rounds, all corrosive ammo. They have sat for months between shootings / cleanings - and no rust.
Takes very little time really.

But as the saying goes, to each their own!
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Yeah this.
I guess because the SKS is an overbuilt carbine people feel they need to over clean it too.
 
I don't know why everyone thinks it's so unbelievable I did 3 round 0.5" group at 50M. Barrel was the right temperature, was shot from rest.

It was at Port Coquitlam & District, I even remember talking to one of the Range Officers, Colin, about it.

My Chinese SKS shoots double fisted size groups at any distance and even this russian opens up considerably at 100m.

Get a better sight, get a side plated scope and reload and you'll see great improvements 2-4" at 100m and 0.5"-2.5" at 50m with the right SKS. Won't be totally consistent.
 
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