Finally, my first sub moa 10 shot 300 yard group.
- Thread starter J996
- Start date
J996 - so when you actually start trying to shoot small groups I expect the AI to shrink that 10 shot one down to 1 1/2"
Cheers mate !
Haha!! You might have to wait a long time to see that Bob. I would have to hire a professional to shoot such a group for me.
I may try the 1/2moa@300 challenge next time out but only for a laugh (I don't expect I'll actually make it haha).
I fully agree that 5+ (10 better) shots are required to prove accuracy.
I was a coward.
My first attempt with a new (to me) McMillan stocked Sig 3000 at 300 yards gave me a group of four shots that through the (high-power) scope looked pretty great.
Sigh, I didn't want to spoil it. Stopped shooting. The range went safe and I got the target, and had to leave.
Next time it will be at least 10 shots. I think I just got lucky; the shooting gods were in a good mood.
I was a coward.
My first attempt with a new (to me) McMillan stocked Sig 3000 at 300 yards gave me a group of four shots that through the (high-power) scope looked pretty great.
Sigh, I didn't want to spoil it. Stopped shooting. The range went safe and I got the target, and had to leave.
Next time it will be at least 10 shots. I think I just got lucky; the shooting gods were in a good mood.
Nice work! You can do ten man, give it a go next time
Here are a few things that have really helped me to improve my shooting, hopefully some of it helps others (I only shoot prone though).
-Place your rifle on the ground in front of you, point it directly at the target and place your mag(s) and rear bag right next to it.
-Take a few steps back, then fall in directly behind your rifle, legs straight and out to the sides, feet flat, arms out in front of you.
-Slide forward and place the rifle butt into your shoulder, pushing forward with your toes, load the bipod.
-The rifle should be parallel to your spine, directing recoil straight down your body.
- The rifle should now be held in position by just your shoulder and the bipod, trapping it there. Elbows are on the ground, forearms straight out.
- Now bring your head down and rest it on the cheekpiece.
- Shift your entire body left or right until the crosshairs line up on the target, do not move the rifle.
-With your left hand, pick up the rear bag and place it under the rear of the butt, keeping a grip on it with your support hand.
- Let your cheek sink down onto the cheekrest, pushing the rifle down onto the rear bag, placing the crosshairs on the target.
-With your magazine still out of the rifle and moving nothing but your right arm, run the bolt so you can do a dry fire.
-Once lined up, close your eyes, then begin squeezing the trigger. *Click*. When you open your eyes again, the crosshairs should still be on target.
-If the crosshairs have moved, shift your entire body left or right to get back on target, do not move the rifle.
- Run the bolt again and go through another dry fire or two until you are comfortable, not straining or forcing your body into position in any way and confident nothing is moving.
- Now that you are lined up perfectly, the only part of you that moves is your right arm to insert the mag and cycle the bolt and your toes to apply light but steady forward pressure against the bipod.
-Slowly insert the magazine and close the bolt.
-When ready, begin firing, paying attention to not move anything but your right arm to run the bolt, breathing, focusing on the target and squeezing the trigger, round after round. Pretend your cheek is glued to that stock.
-Be cognizant of any canting after each shot, make sure the reticle is straight (this really applies to me with that bloody AI bipod).
-If you have to change mags, do it slowly, right arm only, your eyes looking through your scope, nothing else moves (feel for the fresh mag, you will find it).
Cheers,
J.
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May I be so bold as to ask what everyone's special load is for the .308win? I , myself, have only made up hunting loads and I would love to hear YOUR SPECIFIC "accuracy load". What brass, powder (and how much) , bullet, OAL, primer and what YOUR GUN IS SPECIFICALLY. I do not know enough about precision shooting to appreciate your guns. (hence I don't know what make and models the rifles are!!!)
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Hey ghostie, yes I was using the tension screw on the PH bipod for a bit. The trouble was it was a finicky setup as the PH bipod legs can move in and out under spring tension about 1/4" if not held down by equal weight on both legs from above like it was designed to. The tension knob would allow the weight to shift to one leg during firing on uneven surfaces, leaving the other to extend down that 1/4" on spring tension (no solid contact to ground). I would have to lift up the rifle and set the bipod back down evenly with annoying frequency.
The block from the NV rail was rock solid but in order for the LRA bipod to sit out far enough it had to be mounted backwards which put the locking lever out of my reach when behind the rifle. Not ideal. I am now waiting for a spigot mounted picatinny rail which will solve the problem, then I can use my LRA.
The Parker hale bipod is great for movers and tracking so I will still use it (I actually do like it quite a bit) and I have gotten used to shooting groups with it. As you yourself know it has to be loaded up quite hard to keep it from tilting. If one can keep it loaded up steady it actually works really well and is very heavy duty.
The trigger on mine is excellent for a 2 stage. Just a bit of take up and once it stops a very gentle squeeze will set it off. Mine must have been adjusted properly, I feel any lighter would be unsafe. When I let others try my rifle I always have them do a dry fire first to try the trigger. Their reaction is always a surprise when it goes off.
I do like the issued look which is why I went with the 12X when I put it together. I do not regret it and feel the 12X is just enough mag. I did opt for the P4 Fine reticle which at the lower magnification makes all the difference. I have no problem aiming at a 1/4" dot at 100 or a 1.5" dot at 300. At 500 on a Fig 14 I can see its features very well, past that range I only shoot steel so the 12x is still good there.
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Sure no problem,
Load
175 SMK (Seated with Redding comp die).
Lapua brass (FL resized with Forster match die).
41 grains of IMR 4895
CCI M34 primer.
Bullet seated .20 thou back from the lands
Measurement to ogive 2.240
OAL 2.820
Velocity (in my rifle) 2560 fps.
Rifle
Accuracy International England
AW (Arctic Warfare, L118A1, SR-98)
7.62X51mm (.308)
26" Med palma stainless steel barrel (Lothar-Walter).
Fully adjustable target butt option.
Magazines 10 round double stack.
S&B 3-12X50 PMii DT P4F
Accuracy first level.
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Holy Moly Batman!! I barely have ever seen ANY of those components for sale at a LGS. That rifle sounds mighty nice. Geez, I need to do some research.
- Location
- gormley ontario
i noticed the targets used were big black dots.wouldn't this make it alot harder to stay centered.
- Location
- gormley ontario
nice great shooting.i'm heading to milcun for a week of learning to shoot properly.should be fun.
I finally had time to do some shooting today and decided to try to beat my previous best group at 305 yards while I was out there. I came close to doing it. Dropped one round low and ruined what could have been 10 rounds into 2.50" but hey that is reality.
I am really starting to love the bipod that most people hate, the Parker Hale floppy.
What was interesting data was the POI difference of 0.2mrad. The initial group was shot in June during 30 plus degree weather and today the DA was in the minus and it was only 5 degrees out (yes I know I can get bent with my BC winter weather).
I am really starting to love the bipod that most people hate, the Parker Hale floppy.
What was interesting data was the POI difference of 0.2mrad. The initial group was shot in June during 30 plus degree weather and today the DA was in the minus and it was only 5 degrees out (yes I know I can get bent with my BC winter weather).
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I was just about the ask for your recipe as well.
Anything extra in the brass prep? (or maybe not if Lapua is all that I hear it is)
The nice thing about that first group shown is that there is not too much vertical; especially if one discounts the one low shot. Getting rid of the vertical dispersion is my primary goal. It takes very little to move a bullet 1/2 moa at 300M. This is why I try to confirm accuracy on a dead calm evening. Once I've done that, I can work on reading the flags and mirage. I'm not unhappy with two inches at 300M for the F/TR rifles but want half that from the "F" open rifles. Generally speaking, I think if one has a 308 and it won't shoot the listed load, there is something wrong with the rifle. 41-42 with 168's is also pretty certain. The same load also works well in a 30/40 Krag or 303 British since case capacities are roughly the same for all three.
Varget, but a little more of it, is often just as good or better. I use 45.5 of Varget with a 168 Lapua in the 30/40 behind a 168 Lapua. This is the same load I use in the 308's if I am using Varget. These three cartridges, (the 308, 30/40, and 303B) are all wonderfully easy to work with and there are almost too many combinations which work well.
Varget, but a little more of it, is often just as good or better. I use 45.5 of Varget with a 168 Lapua in the 30/40 behind a 168 Lapua. This is the same load I use in the 308's if I am using Varget. These three cartridges, (the 308, 30/40, and 303B) are all wonderfully easy to work with and there are almost too many combinations which work well.
No nothing else I just FL size, trim and deburr. I size the cases one thou smaller than the chamber. I have been using a hornady hand crank trimmer but I am going to get a Giraud tool which should be a big improvement in case mouth uniformity and it also adds a chamfer.
