Finding a rife smith is easy, but how about a good Canadian shotgun smith?

Longwalker

Longwalker

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I need to have some good quality double shotguns worked on: build a new flat spring, stock bent to alter cast, replace hinge pin to put back on face, adjust ejectors to make them timed the same and a new butt stock made for a box lock gun. Not work a rifle guy can usually do. I used to get Nick Makinson to do this sort of work but he's retired. Any suggestions?
 
The simpler stuff can be done by Vic Tomlinson, down Fort Erie way... he has done some good work for me, at a stupid reasonable price. Chris Dawe is a good choice out East, but expect a heavier bill at the end of your encounter.
 
Steve Milton of Precision Arms in King City Ont. Steve is a bit crusty, and you will pay for his work but he is exceedingly good. Shotguns are his specialty. He was trained in the UK originally under one their famous gun makers. He has done a lot of work for me over the years, all good. I know he is more than capable of doing the work you describe that you wish done. Google Precision Arms to get his website.

Unfortunately the world of shotguns in Canada does not have the glitz and glamor that the rifle side does, so finding good smiths is difficult.
 
I wish I could trust Steve Milton to do the job, he certainly seems to have the skills. I once sent him a Krieghoff drilling that needed the cocking mechanism adjusted. He kept it for more than a year, did nothing, then complained that it was a 'bad design" that could not be fixed. A bit crusty indeed. Returned it to me with no work done, and the stock mysteriously cracked. I shipped it to Krieghoff USA at great expense for permits and brokers and such, and they fixed and returned it after two weeks with a small service fee. The USA has many good specialty gunsmiths. I recently sent a double rifle to J J Perodeau in the USA, who did excellent work, but the shipping insurance and broker fees were more than C$750!
 
Maybe I can help you out with the boxlock stock ... https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...been-working-on-Yes-I-am-still-alive!!/page27 post #258 to #262

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and post #193 to #213

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I was just about to suggest Sean69 for your stock work. He did a ruger no1 for me from scratch and it turned out beautifully.
 
Interesting thread. I was curious about this as I am looking at picking up a O/U trap gun and was wondering about havin an adjustable butt plate installed.
 
Longwalker said:
I wish I could trust Steve Milton to do the job, he certainly seems to have the skills. I once sent him a Krieghoff drilling that needed the cocking mechanism adjusted. He kept it for more than a year, did nothing, then complained that it was a 'bad design" that could not be fixed. A bit crusty indeed. Returned it to me with no work done, and the stock mysteriously cracked. I shipped it to Krieghoff USA at great expense for permits and brokers and such, and they fixed and returned it after two weeks with a small service fee. The USA has many good specialty gunsmiths. I recently sent a double rifle to J J Perodeau in the USA, who did excellent work, but the shipping insurance and broker fees were more than C$750!
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Very dismayed to hear this. I have not had him do anything for me for quite sometime as I retired from shooting skeet and clays. Crusty from your description has turned to arrogance. Seems my recommendation's are out of date and unfortunately inaccurate.
 
Longwalker said:
looks good sean69! do you do checkering as well?
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I do not... yet, still working on practice pieces, though I do have 2 Winchesters (mine) that are going to get the checkering treatment, so whenever I feel confident (with checkering)


Slimbo said:
I was just about to suggest Sean69 for your stock work. He did a ruger no1 for me from scratch and it turned out beautifully.
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Yes - it's in there too, post #296, as I remember I had to float that for end - very tricky with the No.1 ~ how is it holding up? (that was a seriously sweet gun BTW)


TrxR said:
Interesting thread. I was curious about this as I am looking at picking up a O/U trap gun and was wondering about havin an adjustable butt plate installed.
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those things are $$$!!! - nice ones at any rate. Might be a thought to find your LOP sweet spot and think about something like the wood plates you see on those nice European high end guns. something Dense and hard would be nice and decorative (Bloodwood, Chocobolo Purpleheart ... etc)
 
sean69

The picture of the second double resting on the wedge of wood. What type of finish did you apply to the stock. It really brings out the woods features and has just the right amount of sheen/ shine.
 
mrgoat said:
sean69

The picture of the second double resting on the wedge of wood. What type of finish did you apply to the stock. It really brings out the woods features and has just the right amount of sheen/ shine.
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I don't exactly recall - I don't use linseed for anything, so it's going to be either pure tung or poly tung. (Lee Valley) That one may have gotten a pore filler as well. but the sheen will be paste wax.
 
Sean69

Thanks for the feedback. Stock finishing has been an interest of mine for decades. Ironically my go to finish that I have had the most success with is tung oil, pure and polymerized from Lee Valley. I have never tried paste wax. I have used a gunstock wax product I got out of the states one time. Looks wonderful, but wears off in one day in the field. I always fill the wood pores, that is usually where the poly tung comes in. A couple thin layers then 4 zero steel wool it down to the wood and keep repeating until the pores are filled and the wood is as smooth as glass. I am always looking at other folks finishes and asking questions. I have done a lot of checkering over the years, but my eyes due to age do not lend well to it anymore so except for the odd recut on my own guns I stay clear of now. It never was one of my strong points as I never did enough of it. Put it this way I never got any job offer's from Holland & Holland and Purdy...!!!
 
mrgoat said:
Sean69

Thanks for the feedback. Stock finishing has been an interest of mine for decades. Ironically my go to finish that I have had the most success with is tung oil, pure and polymerized from Lee Valley. I have never tried paste wax. I have used a gunstock wax product I got out of the states one time. Looks wonderful, but wears off in one day in the field. I always fill the wood pores, that is usually where the poly tung comes in. A couple thin layers then 4 zero steel wool it down to the wood and keep repeating until the pores are filled and the wood is as smooth as glass. I am always looking at other folks finishes and asking questions. I have done a lot of checkering over the years, but my eyes due to age do not lend well to it anymore so except for the odd recut on my own guns I stay clear of now. It never was one of my strong points as I never did enough of it. Put it this way I never got any job offer's from Holland & Holland and Purdy...!!!
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What I will do frequently is give a stock a couple coats of pure tung then switch to the poly tung after that - if I am pore filling, I've been using a water based filler (Aqua Coat from Lee Valley) that works great, only an hour or so drying time between applications - so pore filling is like a day instead of a week :)

I've used tru-oil as well ... but really don't like it for some reason. can't say why. I also simply hate linseed ... waste of time, use it on your floors.

Wax, no is not super durable but it's a quick & easy application protects your wood and metal an extra 10 minutes after cleaning is well worth it (that and solvents will eat the wax away anyway)

I also like the extra UV protection from wax as the dyes I use on maple stocks are not UV safe.
 
mrgoat said:
Thanks for the tips sean69, I guess we both own ample shares in Lee Valley
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for the amount of $$ I've given them over the years you would think :)



TrxR said:
Sean69: Have you ever tried Minwax wipe-on poly or Arm R Seal?
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I tried the minwax poly tung at one point ... didn't like it, would up using it to seal up plywood jigs and such. - have not heard of Arm R Seal.

I have used CA glue as well... very hard glossy finish. VERY nasty to apply

Also shellac - I LOVE (!! LOVE !!) shellac - my favorite.... wonderful to work with - beautiful finishes ... not durable, like not even at all. I wouldn't use it on a working gun - presentation maybe, safe queens sure ... not anything that I would expect to see a lot of use though. luckily shellac is easy to freshen.



Wsamus said:
You could try Nick of Vulcan Gun Refinishing.
He's a little bit of a haul for you, but he's done work for me and I'm very pleased.
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Nick does great work and is a great guy - not sure what the OP is after is his (Nick's) bag though. Doesn't hurt to reach out, chances are that Nick will know someone.
 
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