Finish for gunstocks?

I use boiled linseed oil on my gun stocks. Wet sand with 220 grit a couple times after the first coat to fill the pores, then buff with steel wool or fine Scotch Brite pads between coats after that. Buff with a cloth for the last couple, and if I want more of a shine or more weather protection I use a wax finish last.
Kristian
 
What's a good finish for gunstocks?

Easiest probably would be tru oil, but reading, it doesn't seem to be very weather resistant.

Any ideas? I bought a couple finishes. Helmsman spar urethane and varathane diamond wood finish satin.

From reading, some guys say that finish for wood flooring is a good finish?

G’day, I have refinished several stocks over the years, both hunting (Marlin, Mossberg 42) and military (Lee Enfield, P14, Mosin, Cooey 82).

Refinishing is a process and I find good pep work is the foundation. After prepping the wood surface, which is its own unique process, (I use only fine grade steel wool and stripping compound), I have used minwax stain to darken the wood if desired. I have used raw linseed oil and boiled linseed (BLO). The end result is the same, except BLO dries quicker. I apply several initial light coats using fine steel wool working it gently in, let it soak thoroughly and wipe off any residual. Once the surface is smooth I then apply light coats allowing it to soak thoroughly. You will tell as after absorbing the residual will still appear as wet. I do this until I achieve the initial lustre I desire, buffing with lightly dampened cloth between coats. After the initial lustre, I will then maintain this by applying a fresh light coat thereafter of BLO, let absorb and wipe off and buff. I do this once a day for a week, then once a month, if you desire, but at least annually. I have found the raw linseed/BLO finishes to be durable and easy to maintain once the initial finish has been done as if it gets scuffed just apply new oil to the area, soak in and buff, no need to re-strip, just ensure you wipe any excess from the metal as it will tend to solidify on the metal leading to a build up of goop. I got on to the linseed as I read that Lee Enfield No 4 stocks were immersed and soaked in vats of linseed oil for up to a week during manufacture.

As far as applying a wax, I have not as it would tend to seal the surface and if there was marring, you would need to strip the wax off to allow any new oil application to soak in.

Another reason I prefer the oils, is that it allows the natural grain to show. I just refinished a Mossberg 42M C stock, and the wood has turned out beautiful IMHO.

Good luck, hope this helps.

Cheers
 
hi& GOOD MORNING
I HAVE DONE OVER 50 STOCKS IN [TUNG OIL] FROM CTC
EASY TO PUT ON AND EASY TO REPAIR IF NEEDED.
ABOUT 6 COATS IS ALL THAT IS NEEDED FOR A NICE STOCK
OLD TIMER 75
 
Daly's Seafin ship and shore sealer,just follow the directions, soaks right in.I have even used it in a vacuum box to stabilize wood for knife handles or gun stocks.It is the ultimate for protecting wood ,its in the wood not on it.Easy to touch up scratches and scuffs.You can put it in the dishwasher if its stabilized ,flat oil like finish or satin if you rub it up .Increases the wood hardness by 30%.

I’m testing this stuff out on a piece of walnut from a stock I’m building right now. So far it’s looking/feeling real nice.
 
I’m testing this stuff out on a piece of walnut from a stock I’m building right now. So far it’s looking/feeling real nice.

lots of great ways ..i use true oil on 220 finished wood..1 rag coat rubbed in hard till tacky .dry 24hrs then wash 0000 steel wool in acetone to de oil then dry...apply second coat of true oil with steel wool.....it cuts the finish and the wet dust fill the pores ...dry ...repeat x 6 then finish coat with cotton rag ..lint free....dry well...then if you like rub down with recycled brown paper bag cut into 4x4 pieces ....takes a number.....this removes shine as desired ..to satin finish....pours are filled ....great look....easy... scraches fix up easy...
...there you go
 
lots of great ways ..i use true oil on 220 finished wood..1 rag coat rubbed in hard till tacky .dry 24hrs then wash 0000 steel wool in acetone to de oil then dry...apply second coat of true oil with steel wool.....it cuts the finish and the wet dust fill the pores ...dry ...repeat x 6 then finish coat with cotton rag ..lint free....dry well...then if you like rub down with recycled brown paper bag cut into 4x4 pieces ....takes a number.....this removes shine as desired ..to satin finish....pours are filled ....great look....easy... scraches fix up easy...
...there you go

Iv tried the Tru oil a couple times, I never could get to like it’s finish. Iv built and finished stocks issuing tung oil with great results. Mr Flach has shown a few rifles he’s finished with the Daly’s and they look pretty amazing. Im interested to try it out.

Great idea with the paper bag! I will keep that one in mind :)
 
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