finish
i believe he meant that the wood was coated in that finish, there was one that just sold on the EE for 300 or so$$, was a #4mk1 someone converted from of wood to accept#1mk3 nose cap, actually caught me off guard,lol, it was coated in a black finish all over
if the wood is coated in black paint or something like paint, you can use a commercial paint and varnish remover, then once wood is stripped, and cleaned with mineral spirits, or varsol, wipe it down and see what the cond of the wood will be, if wood is lightly raised in grn from removal of black finish, you can rub it down with boiled linseed oil and useing a synthetic brillow pad or synthetic oooo steel wool, rub with the grain, this will push grain back down and linseed will penetrate surface and put a soft glow on wood, give it that military look it deserves, id allow each coat to dry for atleast 24 hrs before light buffing with a cloth and re coating, also to help speed up dry time and make a harder finish, i add a few drops of japan dryer which is a drying agent in a pill bottle size container of boiled linseed oil, as well if the wood is really dry and pouros, ill do the following
find an empty 500ml bottle, even a pop bottle, add 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 pure turpentine, and sometimes i will ad about 1/4 bottle of birchwood casey truoil, mix it by shaking it, and let it stand for 2 days before use, this will allow all ingredients to mix, then once your ready have your wood prepared properly and apply as if using reg coats of oil
let dry between coats for atleast 12 hrs, light coats achieve faster dry times and a better overall finish, always remember to polish or buff each coat with a lint free cloth after coat has dried or remove excess oil that hasnt pentrated after 2 hrs or so, hope this helps anyone who reads it out
feel free to email me or message me on here if you need any help refinishing military rifles or any firearms at all, be more then happy to share refinish tips and recipes with anyone
