Finishing after Double Boiled Linseed

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eros1976

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I'm totally overwhelmed with the amount of choices in regards to finishing the stock of my 336.

I've stripped it, sanded it, and have applied a bunch of coats of DBLO. She looks good, has a nice warm touch. And if i followed through with another coat once a week for a month, 1 coat once a month for a year and 1 coat a year for life, i feel it will always look nice and warm.

What i was hoping for was that fresh, just wet kinda look. As the DBLO dries, it gets pretty satin looking.

I've read up on varnishes and such, and also read about WAX as the finishing. My question is this:

Should I just keep adding DBLO and throwing a wax over top of it.. or should I be mixing in some varnish to give it a little more gloss and proctection?

If varnish is added, am i handcuffing myself to that finish?

I've got renaissance wax coming, would i be best to just wait for that and try it out first?
 
I'm a fan of wax. My experience is with flooring, but it applies here too. After the oil is evenly absorbed wait a week or so. Then use something to knock the dust bumps down (not steel wool). Rub generous amounts of paste wax into the finish. Buff with cotton.

Where the picture of the stock? Share your success!
 
You can shellac over an oil finish and polish that to the level you want, and wax over that to protect the shellac (somewhat)

My process is pore filling (if required)sand/level, a coat or two of tung or linseed (I like tung) - more than that isn't necessary, once your first couple of coats are cured, the wood won't absorb any more oil, it's intended as a barrier. sand/steel wool all the oil off the surface. don't cut through to raw wood. shellac, a couple of coats - clear shellac, and better if you get the actual flakes and make your own rather than the Canadian Tire stuff. level it if more coats are needed .... nice thing about it is you can do several coats per day. once you have the base built up and leveled you can polish to 1000 grit or so (leave no sanding marks) then you can buff it up with auto body pads & polishes right up to a mirror shine. Finally, paste wax - not liberal amounts, very thin coats!


Nice things about this type of finish is that it will protect vs. moisture very well, is easy to repair and maintain (wax it once in a while) , looks fantastic (!!), doesn't take weeks to complete & easily reversible up to the filler & oil.

Caveats? yes, it's shellac, you don't want to spill any sort of alcohol/solvents and probably not most bore cleaning solutions even with the wax coatings. Great for a restoration/presentation or big baby, but it's not for something you are gonna drag through the bush. In that case replace the shellac with something polymer based, poly based tungs are good.
 
Well - A mix of varnish and BLO is called "Danish Oil". It is more weatherproof than BLO, and has a semi-gloss sheen to it after a few coats. If you want a more glossy finish, try tung oil or gloss varathane.
 
If you really want that "wet look" then you will only get it from a hard clear finish. For that you're going to need to go with multiple coats of polyurethane varnish if you want a home option or go with automotive clear coating from a local body shop.

Either way you're looking at applying the varnish or clear coat, wait for that coat to dry/cure hard, wet sand with very fine paper to sand out any waviness or thicker spots then re-coat and sand again and re-coat. Three or maybe four coats in you wet sand it one last time working up in grit numbers then finally use rubbing and polishing compounds intended for varnish or clear coats to bring the finish up to that "mile deep shine" you're after.

The only thing is that the wood will now look like it's buried under plastic. But that's what you need to get that glossy wet look you say you like.
 
BCRider said:
If you really want that "wet look" then you will only get it from a hard clear finish. For that you're going to need to go with multiple coats of polyurethane varnish if you want a home option or go with automotive clear coating from a local body shop.

Either way you're looking at applying the varnish or clear coat, wait for that coat to dry/cure hard, wet sand with very fine paper to sand out any waviness or thicker spots then re-coat and sand again and re-coat. Three or maybe four coats in you wet sand it one last time working up in grit numbers then finally use rubbing and polishing compounds intended for varnish or clear coats to bring the finish up to that "mile deep shine" you're after.

The only thing is that the wood will now look like it's buried under plastic. But that's what you need to get that glossy wet look you say you like.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input... yes, just wet it looks great.. but what you pointed out about that plastic feel kinda bummed me out. I think i'm going to stick with the Linseed... and throw on a layer of Renaissance wood wax to see how I like it. At very least, i can go further with it if i'm still not satisfied at that point!
 
You can always strip the boiled linseed oil finish off and use something commercial like Tru-Oil or Linspeed. At least 60 years ago there were better finishes than boiled linseed oil. I used it once in 1967 and quickly moved on...
 
kamlooky said:
Top it off with three or four layers of Tru Oil.
Click to expand...

I just did my k31 stock with 3 coats of BLO and then a light coat of tru oil and it has a decent shiny finish to it
I never sanded the stock or anything so all the dings and scratches stand out but it looks and feels better then it did
 
I just BLO'd this Rem 870 laminate stock set, I gave it a good soaking, a light 0000 steel rub and then two applications of furniture wax. Once the wax was applied and set I buffed it by hand with a soft cloth, has a nice sheen. Not to glossy but not matte, it feels nice in the hand too. Smooth but not slick, it turned out pretty much like I wanted it to.

I'll be doing the same thing to a sported no.4 stock over the winter.

During oiling
lb9XUdW.jpg


After waxing and buffing
VtFBalw.jpg


On the gun
wZwpBxb.jpg
 
Finished Product

Well, here's my handy work. I gave it roughly 12 layers of linseed oil.. followed by a solid waxing using renaissance wax. I've also tru blued a few spots that required it (but didn't like how it was turning out, so only on the magazine) I've also added the a diamond back scope, rings/base, hammer extension. Had you seen it before, you would have noticed alot of scratches into the clearcoat of the stock finish. Pretty happy about the final product!



 
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