Finishing the stock on my M14s?

I am using tru gun oil and it is the best finish I have seen on the M14 Chu Wood Stock. You have to use a lot of coats and let each coat dry about 12 hours. I have about 5 coats on 1 rifle (tester) and it came out beautifully. I am totally sold on the BW Tru Gun Oil finish.
 
Glock4ever said:
I am using tru gun oil and it is the best finish I have seen on the M14 Chu Wood Stock. You have to use a lot of coats and let each coat dry about 12 hours. I have about 5 coats on 1 rifle (tester) and it came out beautifully. I am totally sold on the BW Tru Gun Oil finish.
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May be I just need to keep going with some more coats, It seems to not want to dry? but when I rub it off it still looks good but no real shine just nice and clean.
 
Yes, the bipod is from Marstar, its the picatinny rail mounting swivelling bipod by NcStar. It works good. I have a Fulton Armoury pic rail on the front (replaces the front sling swivel, but leaves a new one).

The mount is a Leatherwood optics one. I like mine, its been rock solid, but I had to replace the main screws. First time I used it, the recoil sheared the screws. The mount is tough, very well made, but the screws were crappy.
 
I thought we were discussing Chu Wood refinishing here?

Since HW crept into the thread, this is a USGI wallnut stock with matching handguard; finished with the traditional treatment; Tung Oil.

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trucker Rob said:
hahaha your's is nice too berger, sorry they both look nice but I was talking about Paul morrison. lol but anyway berger did it leave any smell in the washer?
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No worries Rob! ;)

Yes, it did leave a slight smell, but it was gone after a couple of washes.
 
MJL said:
I eventually told myself it "..adds character" and went on with Minwax Tongue Oil Finish. Evened it out and sealed it, but waiting to see what the warmer weather does
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Started work on mine yesterday, SOS pads and TSP to get the first of the original finish off....then one good solid run through the pots&pans cycle with cleaning, a good sanding&wipedown and now it's drying after layer #1 of tung oil (2:1 turpentine:tungoil)....will post pictures in the next couple days of the finished stock! :)
 
Trucker Rob: My stock looks like a factory Remington 700 stock (shiny and nice grain). You can still see the flaws of the wood underneath (i.e. Chinese workers actually glued some chips) but the finish looks very much like North American finish. I should take some pics and show you. Apply the coats in thin layers (I used a white cotton t-shirt - ripped into pieces) and let each layer dry. When you mentioned that it was shiny but you were rubbing it off - you aren't letting it dry long enough. What will happen is that the first two to three coats will look flat and woody. As the wood absorbs more of the oil it will eventually become saturated. Coats 4-5-6 will have many shiny spots (dry) and some flat spots (areas where the wood wasn't saturated). I started to apply the oil finish to the areas that weren't shiny to even out the finish. Keep putting on the oil finish I believe you will be surprised - I know I was.
 
where do you buy Tru-Oil for gun stocks? Would Bass Pro or Lebaron carry this? Or perhaps Rona/Home Depot, or even crappy tire?
 
Pictures people, please, we need pictures. So many solutions provided, yet no proof of concept.
 
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Well, during cleaning of my stock I did apply liberal amounts of bleach to kill the mold (hopefully it will never return). Then I scrubbed it with sand paper to make it nice and smooth. The raw wood became pretty bleached out....very light in colour which I suspect was caused by the bleach. Now I just finished applying first coat of Tru-Oil for gun stocks....I regret I didn't stain it some darker colour first as the oil didn't change the bleached out hue that much....it looks just wet. I guess it is now too late for stain....or is it?
Also, the Tru-Oil isn't being absorbed evenly through the stock so there are lighter and darker patches....I suppose some parts of the stock are still saturated with the chicom oil or whatever the substance was thus Tru-Oil isn't permeating evenly into the wood.

I am reluctant to take pictures....I will apply a couple of more coats of Tru-Oil and see what happens. The wood seems hard enough...just not so aesthetically pleasing....
 
Well here is my "tester" stock. I have never re-finished a stock or any wood furniture before. This was a first attempt and I learned a heck of a lot. First, sand everything smooth and I mean everything. Don't take any shortcuts or it will show through on the finish. As well, try to fill in the mistakes on the stock as best as you can as dents/cracks will also be visible through the finish. Other then that make sure you let your stocks dry completely after each coat. Keep applying it the BWC Tru Gun Oil and it should finish nicely - at least as nicely as a crappy chu wood stock can finish. Sorry for the crappy pics but I wanted to show ppl that I wasn't BS'ing.

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The first pic is without flash and second is with. As you can see the stock is quite shiny. I have a bottle of BWC Stock Sheen/Conditioner which I haven't applied yet but I don't think the stock will get any shinier... I prefer a shiney finish as it looks better then the flat wood look (at least to me).
 
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I realized that you can't really see the wood very well - here is a close up of the stock you can see the grain and swirly bits (not a real carpenter so sorry if doesn't sound professional).

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Hopefully this helps you guys out. The small bottle of BWC Tru gun oil (40mL) is enough to do 2 stocks. The stock looks way better then the pictures show and doesn't smell at all when it is dry - my wife who knows about as much of finishing wood as I do thought they looked "really good" especially compared to the old greasy Norinco finish - she wouldn't even touch them when I originally got them (also could have been the mold :p).

These are the 4 I have done so far only two more M14's to go. Can't wait to get them re-done:

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That sure does make a nice finish. Yayyyyyyy Canada just scored !!!!
I use a medium weight hemp oil on all my fine woods. It works fantastic. Wood just loves it, apply ... let sit for a few hours, then hand rub with a nice soft cloth. Wonderful.
 
Glock4ever said:
Trucker Rob: My stock looks like a factory Remington 700 stock (shiny and nice grain). You can still see the flaws of the wood underneath (i.e. Chinese workers actually glued some chips) but the finish looks very much like North American finish. I should take some pics and show you. Apply the coats in thin layers (I used a white cotton t-shirt - ripped into pieces) and let each layer dry. When you mentioned that it was shiny but you were rubbing it off - you aren't letting it dry long enough. What will happen is that the first two to three coats will look flat and woody. As the wood absorbs more of the oil it will eventually become saturated. Coats 4-5-6 will have many shiny spots (dry) and some flat spots (areas where the wood wasn't saturated). I started to apply the oil finish to the areas that weren't shiny to even out the finish. Keep putting on the oil finish I believe you will be surprised - I know I was.
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Glock4ever, you where right on, now it's starting to come around and I have to say yours looks good, that's the look I'm going for, now some spots are still sucking in the oil and some spots are starting to shine what do I do there?....... and for the guy's looking for the beachwood casey, I got mine at wel-mart in a spray can.
 
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