fire forming 375 from 3030
- Thread starter WhelanLad
- Start date
Most likely that will work, but the cases may not be fully sized out to 375, in particular at the neck.
I blew out 30-30 cases to 38-55 size, which is virtually the same as 375, by using a primed 30-30 case, six grains or so of 231 powder, stuffing the case full of toilet paper, up to into the neck, then filling the neck with my home made bullet lube, bees wax and beef suet.
It worked perfect.
Bruce
I blew out 30-30 cases to 38-55 size, which is virtually the same as 375, by using a primed 30-30 case, six grains or so of 231 powder, stuffing the case full of toilet paper, up to into the neck, then filling the neck with my home made bullet lube, bees wax and beef suet.
It worked perfect.
Bruce
yeah rightio so better off giving the box of ammo to a bloke to use and in return I gain some brass back.. use a little bit of 'normal' powder?? and try stuffing case with TP, whagt other substitute can I use for a "bullet" , is the aim to create and withstand just enough pressure to blow the case yeh
is there too much stress from .30 to .37 in a FLS? shoulder to straight issue?
WL
is there too much stress from .30 to .37 in a FLS? shoulder to straight issue?
WL
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Although I have never done it myself, I read about the "COW" method of case forming - "Cream Of Wheat" - sounds to be just as H4831 describes - 5 or 10 grains of fast powder (handgun, shotgun), held in place against primer by filling case with Cream of Wheat cereal, top off with square of toilet tissue to hold all in place. I would keep case upright as much as possible and shot rifle pointed up. Is my plan for blowing out 300 Win Mag cases to use in my 458 Win Mag.
fingers284
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta Cowboy Ranges
I have used H's method using TP but have found I get much better "fill out" near the bottom of the case (thicker brass) with a method similar to the COW method potash mentions. I have not blown out 30-30 to .375 but have done some .348 to 50-70 and "finished forming" lots of 45-70 to 38-56 ( I size form them a smidge to undersized and then fire form them to the chamber I use them in).
The method I have found works the best is around 9 or 10 gr of whatever tail end of a can of fast pistol powder I have around that I don't use anymore, fill the remainder of the case with cornmeal and top off with a dollop of plain white carpenters/school glue. let the glue dry for a day and it will hold the cornmeal in place during handling....a word of warning...be careful where you point that little plug of glue when you fire them off...ask me how I know how much damage that little plug will do to a slat in a new aluminum deck surround the wife saved up for a year to buy...it wasn't purty...nor was the aftermath!!
The method I have found works the best is around 9 or 10 gr of whatever tail end of a can of fast pistol powder I have around that I don't use anymore, fill the remainder of the case with cornmeal and top off with a dollop of plain white carpenters/school glue. let the glue dry for a day and it will hold the cornmeal in place during handling....a word of warning...be careful where you point that little plug of glue when you fire them off...ask me how I know how much damage that little plug will do to a slat in a new aluminum deck surround the wife saved up for a year to buy...it wasn't purty...nor was the aftermath!!
I'm going to guess that annealing the .30-30 before doing this may result in better forming and fewer split casings?
It's not that the thicker brass will hold the pressure better. Brass doesn't hold the pressure anyway. It expands easily until it seals against the sides of the chamber. So thick or thin walls don't matter at all in that respect.
What you WILL get with the thinner walls is that the round won't sit centrally in the chamber. It'll "fall" to the bottom given by the added clearance so the bullet won't be centered with the bore axis. This might result in a little less accuracy. Running a longer OAL so the nose of the bullet sits into the taper of the rifling leade would aid in holding the cartridge centered and might/should lead to better accuracy. Whether or not you can use that trick would depend on the sort of rifle it is. On the other hand it may not be an issue at all. You'd have to try it and see if your blown out .30-30 cases produce a little less accuracy.
It's not that the thicker brass will hold the pressure better. Brass doesn't hold the pressure anyway. It expands easily until it seals against the sides of the chamber. So thick or thin walls don't matter at all in that respect.
What you WILL get with the thinner walls is that the round won't sit centrally in the chamber. It'll "fall" to the bottom given by the added clearance so the bullet won't be centered with the bore axis. This might result in a little less accuracy. Running a longer OAL so the nose of the bullet sits into the taper of the rifling leade would aid in holding the cartridge centered and might/should lead to better accuracy. Whether or not you can use that trick would depend on the sort of rifle it is. On the other hand it may not be an issue at all. You'd have to try it and see if your blown out .30-30 cases produce a little less accuracy.
saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- middle of Sask
I've used 8-10 grains of faster powder, cream of wheat, and a wax plug with good results for other calibers. It might not get the case perfectly formed, but after the second firing, it most likely will be.
That`s how I do it, except I used a hot glue gun.
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If you're suggesting that you can fire 30-30 ammo in a 375 Win chamber and it will fireform, you will be disappointed. You'll get a "pop", the bullet will probably exit the bore and plop a few yards downrange, and you'll have a partially fireformed cartridge. The powder used in 30-30 ammo is typically in the Burn Rate of IMR3031, and without the bullet being resisted in its exit from the cartridge, it won't develop the pressure needed to burn correctly. Not dangerous, just ineffective. Fast pistol powders like Bullseye and Unique don't have that problem.
I have used fast pistol powder held in place with tissue, and fast pistol powder covered in Cream of Wheat held in place by tissue. I never saw the need to cover that with glue or the like. Concerning the amount, I generally use about 1/3 of a full case. Even more than that would be safe, as it's behind what is essentially a projectile weighing close to zero.
If using 30-30 ammo was never your intention, there's still no harm in mentioning this, as there's no telling what someone else might do.
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30-30 case primed, 4 grs of titegroup, a small bit of toilet paper, fill to bottom of neck with Cream of Wheat (COW), another small bit of toilet paper to hold it all in place. Keep the "loads" pointing up until firing to avoid any mixing of powder and COW. Point the gun straight up and fire. This is important, and why I don't really want any sort of projectile. Not needed anyway. Works better on a breezy day as toilet paper bits don't settle back in your hair. Brass will be slightly short. You may get some split necks. I had about one in 50.
I've thought about that. I weighed some 30-30 brass to compare with 375 brass, as well as taking measurements. (In weighing I took into account that the blown out 30-30 brass is slightly shorter) Of course weight varies with brand of 30-30 brass. But I decided that if the difference of whether or not the case will rupture or the gun blow up depends on that small bit of brass difference, then I am walking on thin ice with factory loadings in original brass. However, that is just my thinking and I stand to be schooled or corrected.
I did exactly that except I used 8Gr of Red Dot.Worked great.
It worked even better with barrel pointing up as opposed to horizontal.Since there is no projectile and case is stuffed with paper/wax plug it's safe IHMO.
