First 1911, but a bit of work to do...

[Amazingkg3]

Just got my first 1911 for Xmas. It's a colt 1911A1, stamped for the U.S. army. I've gone over the trades and serial numbers, I believe it was made in the 60's-70's. It's prior owner installed Ed Brown guide rod, barrel bushing and trigger. The sights are after market dovetails, unknown what make. I lucked out and got the perfect grips to, VZ. I already ordered a new trio of wilson combat mags, and next paycheck will be a new trigger and ring hammer.

Got the gun at a steal, but there's a bit of an issue. It was previously "parkerized." The job is awful, as all the trades are filled in, On top of that, the sights were not removed, covering them in gobby black mess (they used to be tritiums im told). The barrel in the breech was parkerized as well, though the owner made a great attempt at getting it off. Basically, the finish is awful.

I've been talking to the guys at Arma-coat, and they said they can sand blast it and coat it for 255, which to save this gun, is worth the money.

A few quick questions though to other 1911 owners...

1) how do you find Colt's quality in 1911 platform to that of other's like Para, Norinco, Kimber, etc.

2) Anyone know any alternatives to removing the parkerizing? I have zero skills in sand blasting, machining or other metal treatments, so I do feel fine sending it to the Arma-Coat crew,

3) I want to add serrations to the front of the slide. Problem is, this needs to be done after the sand blasting, but before the arma-coating. Anyone know any machinists who could pull it off in the BC-Sask area. prefer alberta.

4) any other tips? Upgrades, etc?

Any help to a newbie 1911 owner would be appreciated!

 

[Pocketfisherman]

The cost to add front serrations would be more expensive than adding a new slide with front and rear serrations if that is the direction you want to go. The Arma-Coat stuff is great. Just pick up a new slide and send the whole works to Arma-Coat.

Front serrations are not my cup of tea but it is your gun, so make it what you want. It sounds like it's not all that collectible so have fun.

Fusion Firearms will sell you a new slide with slick front and rear serrations.

My opinion on the Colt vs. the others - para = junk, Norinco = strong forged frame and good foundation but no beauty contest winner, Kimber = nice, slick, expensive.

If it is your first 1911, tinker with this one, learn about it, get to know how they work all that knowledge will transfer over to your next 1911.

They are like Lays chips - can't have just one!

 

[Amazingkg3]

I was looking at fusion. Slides seem reasonable, but I dont know how much machining costs. Arma coat says they work with a guy who does them and they get back to me. I guess I'll wait on that. Or suck it up and be contempt with the stock serrations,

You make a Good point though, I should just let this one be the dry run before going to the higher end of 1911

 

[Pocketfisherman]

A Fusion slide will go on with out too much trouble. Should just be minor slide frame fitting. There some smiths out there like Armco that will do it for you. He may even have some slides kicking around.

If it is a military gun, a replacement Colt slide correct for the year should be easy to find around here or on gunbroker.

It depends on what you want to make it into. If it has been coated before, dollars to donuts there are some issues with the metal so it maybe best to Arma-Coat it. That stuff is very forgiving and looks great if properly applied.

 

[NAA]

Just got my first 1911 for Xmas. It's a colt 1911A1, stamped for the U.S. army. I've gone over the trades and serial numbers, I believe it was made in the 60's-70's. !

Your pistol has a "P" proof still visible just lower than & behind the mag release button on the left side of the frame. Your frame is undoubtedly 1940's military vintage.

The serial number on the opposite side will tell who the contract maker was [ie. Colt, Remington Rand, Ithaca etc]. You can also check on top of the frame where the disconnector protrudes upwards to see if there are any assembler's initals stamped there. Also, check under the firing pin stop on the slide & see if there is a number also stamped there.

NAA.

 

[Pocketfisherman]

NAA is right it is a 40's vintage frame, but at this point there is not much left of its previous heritage. I have resurrected some real dogs to correct milspec but it sounds like he just wants a functional shooter.

Is there any trace of a three letter inspection mark above the mag release?

 

[Pocketfisherman]

If you give us the serial range, not exact just close, we can nail it for you.

 

[Madness]

ask around at you're club, bound to be a machinist or two that can do the serrations.
sand paper can get the park off, you could use a 3M pad after to even out the finish afterwards.
there's an in home Park mix that works great, used it a few times. FIrst time used there mix instructions and got the usual park colour, but when I did my STI's I mixed it stronger and left the parts in longer to get a deep black colour.
Parts- STI from Freedom Ventures. great quality, good price and in country
magwell- Smith & Alexander

Radocy Parkerizing from PJ's gun care is what I used

 

[NAA]

NAA is right it is a 40's vintage frame, but at this point there is not much left of its previous heritage. I have resurrected some real dogs to correct milspec but it sounds like he just wants a functional shooter.

Is there any trace of a three letter inspection mark above the mag release?

It might just be the light on the pic but to me it looks like there is the Colt "verified proof" [looks like a tiny inverted triangle with "VP" in it] visible on the forward lower part of the trigger guard bow.

Looks like this:

NAA.

 

[Amazingkg3]

If you give us the serial range, not exact just close, we can nail it for you.

Ill get a list of trades and numbers for you guys. I tried doing it myself but I must have been off a bit. I was going to ask on some 1911 specific forums, but I am sure they get asked far too often, so didnt bother.

The purpose of the gun is to be a functional fighting pistol. If there was a reasonable resale to it's restoration I would be interested, but that's not really my forte.

Here is what I hope the end result to be, but with the grips i'm using now. (should i not add serrations) but following the advice from you guys, it doesnt sound like it's worth the effort.

 

[Steve David]

Those sights look like Wilson Combat night eyes, all I would personally do is add an Ed Brown beavertail and shoot it, you have good sights, a extended thumbs safety and a good looking trigger, maybe do a trigger job it you do not like the pull, but that is kind of a kick butt looking gun already.

 

[Amazingkg3]

Those sights look like Wilson Combat night eyes, all I would personally do is add an Ed Brown beavertail and shoot it, you have good sights, a extended thumbs safety and a good looking trigger, maybe do a trigger job it you do not like the pull, but that is kind of a kick butt looking gun already.

The sights actually suck. Not sure what they were, but they were parkerized with the slide. I whited in the dots again, so they work fine. But I dont do fine.

 

[Amazingkg3]

Markings on the firearm are.

LEFT OF FIREARM
-Front left of slide "colt" with unreadable print under it.
-P behind left magazine release
-unreadable trade on left rear of slide
-small triangle near front left of trigger guard

RIGHT OF FIREARM
-United States Property
-M1911A1 U.S.ARMY
-N0 (with a dash under the o) 83XX48
-two dots by the right of trigger guard

I used a guide online, but because of the serial number, I couldnt pin it to the 40s

 

[NAA]

If your serial number is 83XX48 [with the "X's" also being numbers] then you have a 1942 mfg Colt USGI 1911A1 frame.

With the slide off, see if there are any letters on the top of the frame by the disconnector hole.... like this:

Check under the firing pin stop of the slide to see if the serial number or a serial number is stamped there..... like this:

NAA.

 

[Amazingkg3]

Took it to the range today, not sure what to think.

Accuracy was insane compared to my Glock. Was placing groups around 3 inches at 20M, so not concerned about accuracy. I may get the trigger tightened up as it's got a little bit of slack. All in all, not bad- that is when it actually worked.

If the slide was open, and I placed a magazine in, the first round would fly out of the open breech. Not a problem if I placed the magazine with a closed slide, and then racked it.

The slide would not go into battery every time. I thought this was a lubrication problem, but the ammo was not feeding up the ramp properly. It double fed often.

I had a critical stoppage where I could not really see what happened. The slide was not in battery, but I could see a round plugged into the barrel. I removed the magazine. The extractor was right on the lip of the casing, but I couldn't get the slide to budge. After tugging on the slide, it eventually expended the loaded round out the breech.

Aside from that one bad stoppage, I had about 8/50 FTF/FTE. Ammo was Remington UMC government surplus from Wholesale. 230 grain full jacket

I was told by the previous owner that he had only used Wilson combat mags, and the recoil spring was due for replacement. As such, ordered the mags and spring. Hopefully a better performance next time.

 

[BCRider]

Getting back to the finish for the moment. To me it looks more like it was painted or coated instead of parkerized. Park is just not that thick and gobby looking unless the metal underneath is that bad. I think I'd want to play with some paint stripper options first before I get into any abrasive options. You may find that there's a nice looking pistol under the "roofing tar" like paint that looks to me was used.

 

[J0HN_R1]

Getting back to the finish for the moment. To me it looks more like it was painted or coated instead of parkerized.
Park is just not that thick and gobby looking unless the metal underneath is that bad.
I think I'd want to play with some paint stripper options first before I get into any abrasive options.
You may find that there's a nice looking pistol under the "roofing tar" like paint that looks to me was used.

I have a 4L can of LePage stripper I'm using to do my aluminum wheels with.

Come grab some to try if you like, I'll give you 1/2 a mason-jar to test with. I'm in the deep SW by 22x...

Works good on "aftermarket" paint (my wheels have been painted twice), but it's not strong enough to lift the factory coating with ease, needs a bit of elbow grease...

Nice find, BTW...!