First AR15 Build and questions regarding Accuracy

zombiedfens

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Took me awhile to get the time to post this, but here is my first AR15, built it myself!


AR15resize_zps577f8e16.jpg



Aero Precision Lower
Daniel Defense LPK
Questar Buffer tube, spring, buffer and stock package
DPMS A3 Upper
LMT FA Bolt and Carrier
YHM FF Quad Rail
16.5 Inch SJ Hardware Barrel Gas Nitride Treated (5.56 Chamber, 1/7 twist, CarbineLength Gas System )
Muzzle Break
Low Profile Gas Block
Burris PERP Quick release optics mount
Burris Full Field II 3x9x40 Scope





I am getting poor accuracy out of this rifle, all over a 8.5 x 11" piece of paper at 100 yards shooting from a bench, with some not even ending up on the paper at all ( I dont have any targets scaned in to show ) Given the above configuration Would I be out of line to be expecting the rifle to shoot better than this? Would it be out of line to hope that i could get around 2MOA? The rifle has functioned flawlessly otherwise ( for the exception of my buffer tube unscrewing itself due to a bad staking job on the castle nut.... fixed that pretty damn fast! ) I have been using Remington UMC 55g ammo in this rifle and thrown close to 200 rounds thru it.

I don’t feel that I am a horrible shot, I am raising a young family so I don’t get out shooting as much as i wish i could. I have had good results shooting my Norinco M14 in the past.

-Should I try heavier bullet weight? 62 grain perhaps? Or different brands of 55g ammo?
-Could the muzzle break possibly be causing any issues? Should I try shooting without it?

If anyone in the Winnipeg area would like to give this rifle a try that would be cool as well, the issue could very well be my abilities or lack thereof, so anyone with a great deal of experience with the AR15 or shooting in general would be helpful. I am a member at the Steinbach gun range.
Any recommendations from anyone regarding how I can get better accuracy out of this rifle would be greatly appreciated. If indeed the problem could be me, any recommendations to improve my shooting abilities would be welcome as well.
 
Do you know who makes the barrels sold by SJ Hardare?
(I'm skeptical they would make their own from scratch.)

Best case they might buy blanks from a barrel maker and then profile and chamber them.

h ttp://sjhardware.com/store/modules.php?name=catalog&file=product_info&cPath=102_108&products_id=322
 
i would also change ammo. I bought a box of umc from lebarons in ottawa and fired it through my sa-58 and it was like shooting a shot gun. try ae black box 55 grain. its cheap and my rifle shoot 1.5 -2 inch groups at 100 m with it. nice build though.
 
What did the holes in the paper look like? I'm wondering whether its the bullets and the barrel or possibly something to do with the optics / scope mount. Did any of the holes suggest the bullets are disintengrating or keyholing?
 
My 6940 shoots like rubbish with a wide selection of ammo, but shoots groups in the .6-.8MOA range with locally manufactured ammo, loaded with a 55gr Lapua SP. Just gotta find the right load.
 
S&J makes a good barrel. It's not going to be a tac driver, it's a typical Gov't profile AR barrel which should give you at least typical 3moa battle rifle performance.

Yes, you should try different ammo, various kinds, taste testing if you will, before you can judge if there is anything wrong with the gun.

The Muzzle break can effect accuracy if it's not indexed properly or if the ammo is very inconsistent, but, at that level we're probably splitting hairs over a fraction MOA.

This all assumes you built the gun correctly.

I run S&J, but I don't expect moa out of them, so none of my S&J nosed AR's have a scopes on them. You may need to consider something higher end in the future if you want to shoot groups.
 
Oh, and for reference. The last time I shot factory Rem UMC, it was out of my Tikka T3 years ago. I got about 3moa with it out of a rifle that will do .5 with my tuned reloads. In all my experience, I've never really been able to get a 55g FMJ to group out of any of MY rifles.
 
Try different ammo and make sure the scope isn't loose. Also, I know its common sense but don't rest the barrel on anything...I have seen guys at the range do it and wonder why they are all over the target board.
 
What did the holes in the paper look like? I'm wondering whether its the bullets and the barrel or possibly something to do with the optics / scope mount. Did any of the holes suggest the bullets are disintegrating or keyholing?

All the holes looked nice and clean, i didn't see anything to suggest Key holing. I picked up a box of American Eagle 62grain. I'm going to give that a shot once the weather gets a little better, after a little research and based on what people say, it sounds like the Remington UMC stuff is hit or miss ( no pun intended )
 
Pretty much what the last two posters have said. If the receiver fit is sloppy that could be part of it.

For a first time builder, chances are if bolting on the barrel took a lot of effort and patients, then you've done it right, hah.

Don't worry too much about the gun itself right now, just play with some different ammo.

The thing about Gov't Prof barrels, is they are for battle rifles. The thing about battle rifles and FMJ ammo, is that they were both designed for combat, not for grouping.
If you can consistently hit a pie plate at 100, then your rifle is pretty much functioning normally.

Oh, and if you think it's you, make sure you don't have a flinch.
 
I think S&J makes a good barrel. I have an 11.5" that can do 3" groups at 100 meters without really trying using a red dot. If I use a bench rest and a scope, I bet it would tighten up that group significantly. Been using bulk AE 55 gr ammo.

Shoots about as well as the 16" .223 Wylde barrel on my lefty AR that I bought from Arms East anyway.

Forgot to add...nice looking rifle that you built there! I hope you figure out the issue soon. Cheers.
 
The 55g FMJ projectile is very difficult to make well. Most ammunition that uses such a project is...disappointing. Trying other ammunition with a non-FMJ projectile would be next step in evaluation.

GI barrels are expect to do (say) 2 MOA.
 
Barrel nut torqued properly?

Im using a Yankee Hill Machine FF tube and the barrel nut, as per YHM i can't torque the barrel nut to 30 - 80 ft lbs. they say put it on hand tight then turn it with the forearm wrench until the next gas tube hole aligns. I know this may be a shot in the dark but could this potentially be a problem?
 
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