First Dealings With Tikka T3......Very Unimpressed

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So I did a rack of test loads for a buddies T3 Light in 338 yesterday, using 225 ABs and some H 4350. First issue right off the hop is the rifles magazine won't accept SAAMI length cartridges. Bullets must be seated .040" short of nominal 3.400" to fit in the magazine. This is not a "deal breaker" in and of itself, but does mean the bullet jumps about an 1/8" to the lands. I have had Weatherbys with much greater jump and still shoot well, but this thing is shooting patterns. Tried 10 rounds with the factory ammo he has and it shot about a 6" group.......this is the load he said he sighted in with and he thought it shot real good..........before. I checked the action screws and snugged them a touch, but they were not loose and I checked the scope mounts and they are fine. Shot one decent 4 shot group if you don't count the 3" out flyer.......the other 3 went into about 1.5" so I really doubt the scope is jumping about. The groups/patterns are roundish, squareish so this would also indicate that it's not the scope or shooter necessarily. Buddies shooting is a little suspect so I shot two of the test loads with no noticeable improvement, so I'm convinced it's the gun or loads.

Never handled or worked with a T3 before but there is a lot about the rifle I do not like. The extremely tight ejection port occasionally will not allow a case to eject and it rattles around and you have to hold the rifle just so and shake the sh!t out of it to get the case out. With the bullet seated just to the magazine length the loaded round will just barely clear the port and if it pops off the extractor you have to pull the bolt to get it out of the action.......and this is seated .040" short of SAAMI max. I also don't like the feel of the plastic magazine, but I will admit that with modern polymer technology they are quite likely superior to sheet metal ones, but I still don't like them.

Then there is the "hearsay" story of 4 different T3s that refused to fire in -35 degree temps (this is first hand from my son, so yes I believe it). These are his buddies who all bought T3s in 300 WM after one of them bought one and it shot factory ammo into about 1/2". So 3 other guys ran right out and bought them as well. Anyway my son, James, took all 4 of these rifles apart, dismantled the bolts and flushed them pristine clean, no oil or grease left, flushed the triggers, reassembled them and the boys went bison hunting again the next weekend and guess what...........not one single rifle would fire at -35 again. These are all factory rifles, not dicked with and shooting factory ammo, all flushed totally clean with Brakeclean and tested afterward. He called me completely and utterly stumped and I asked him about his clean up of the bolts and triggers, after which I could offer no more advice other than to trade them off on Remingtons or Winchesters. I have used Remingtons in +55 degree heat right down to -50 degree cold and never had a FTF !!!!!!!!!

No gentlemen, I can unequivocally state that you won't be seeing any T3s in my gun vault any time soon. I have another rack of test loads for the neighbors 338 which we intent to try today and we'll see how these perform. I also have two racks of test loads for my own 338 for today (my Sako Safari) with 225 ABs so we'll see how it performs as well. I'm also thinking that with the big jump in buddies T3 that 200 or 225 TSXs might be a little better choice, they seem to like a head start before engaging the rifling, so maybe they are the answer. My Safari has plenty of magazine so I have them seated about .005" off the lands and I anticipate good things from it..........but we'll see. My 375 H&H Rem 700 doesn't like 260 ABs but my son's 375 Ruger loves them so it may just be a bullet preference with buddies 338. If the ABs don't smarten up with this powder change then I have some 210 Parts and some 225 TSXs to try..........I'll keep y'all posted on the outcome.
 
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Douglas....you are undoubtedly going to take a lot of heat for your evaluation of Tikka T3 rifles, but guess what? I'm solidly in your camp on this one.
I have owned 3 T3 rifles over the past 8 years, and now own exactly zero. I had a 338 "Hunter", and it was unimpressive at the range as well, but would
have been huntable. [2" avg groups with 4 different bullets/loads]
Most are quite accurate, but buying a T3 does not automatically guarantee one has a sub-moa rifle. Regards, Dave.
 
I have owned three T-3 varmint rifles, and have helped developed loads for several more, and every single rifle easily shot sub moa, with the Varmints and Sporter shooting sub 1/2moa. In most cases, the bullets had to be seated fairly deep, leaving a jump to the lands to fit the magazine, but it doesn't appear to have caused any accuracy issues with the T-3s that I have worked with. As for the functioning issues at -35, I am no longer interested in hunting at -35, so that isn't a concern in my case. The T-3 may not be the best choice for some applications, but for my uses, it has served me well.
 
Yep SJ, I have heard great things about the T3 accuracy and haven't written this rifle off yet as far as accuracy is concerned, but the other issues have me distraught though. I hear great things continuously about the accuracy of Savage rifles, and you won't see any of them in my gun vault either.
 
But....but....

THE BOLT IS SOOO SMOOTH!

I've been saying for years the T3 is overpriced and is closer in quality to a Savage axis than a Winchester. But, they are usually accurate, and the smooth bolt travel seems to really impress some guys. :$
 
You know Dave, I went about this load development, for this rifle, with absolutely no preconceived notions or prejudices toward the Tikka at all. I had never played with one before and was totally unfamiliar with them. What I am voicing here are just my observations from working with this rifle and what my son told me just this week.........and I'm not impressed. They can flame me all they want, but these are my unbiased observations and experience.
 
Yep SJ, I have heard great things about the T3 accuracy and haven't written this rifle off yet as far as accuracy is concerned, but the other issues have me distraught though. I hear great things continuously about the accuracy of Savage rifles, and you won't see any of them in my gun vault either.

I won't own a Savage either, but my go to rifle for informal target shooting is still a T-3 Varmint in .223rem. It has a decent trigger, and I shot a .355" five shot group with it at 100m during the first range session. My previous 6.5x55 T-3 varmint was just as accurate, but when I moved to my new location and only had access to a 300m range, I didn't have a use for the rifle anymore, and sold it.
 
Great thread on your views Douglas.
I trust'yah.
Makes one wonder about the magazine length and what the designers were thinking
when drawing these things up?
Long throat and short mag inners =wtf
 
Great thread on your views Douglas.
I trust'yah.
Makes one wonder about the magazine length and what the designers were thinking
when drawing these things up?
Long throat and short mag inners =wtf

There is a solution to the magazine, but it isn't cheap, the metal Waters magazines allow much longer COL, and they are available for many cartridges now..
 
I know t3's use one action length for the regular calibers, do they maybe use the same size action for the mags too? That would possibly explain the lack of space in the magazine, and seemingly undersized ejection port?

I'm totally stumped on the whole not firing in -35 though... any guesses? Internals froze maybe?
 
IME the 338 WM is an easy tuner and larger bores seem not to require the finickyness that smaller ones require. So perhaps a bullet style the euros use is their reasoning for a long throat??
Are you considering a chamber cast....may be a bad run of barrels. Sometimes those flyers are telling. Q&A slips from time to time for any production rifle. However, if she doesn't fire in extreme conditions you will experience....toss her aside.
My 2c.
 
I'm a tikka fanboy, but I fully appreciate respect your review and opinions....

Several on here that I respect (many that have already posted on this thread) have stated similar concerns, and I trust them.

Am I now anti- T3?? No. But I sure will look at them with a more critical eye now.

GGG
 
I go to the range all winter long in whatever the temps are and have had no failures of t3s going bang when I pull the trigger. I also have them in the truck bed so they are ambient temp when I shoot them. Not out of the truck.

I would try taking the stock off and inspecting the aluminum recoil lug. Might wiggle around in there since the 338 does have some recoil or be tight but deformed. You can pull it out and flip it around or replace it with a steel lug and bed it if there are issues with the lug. I've had and have bought for friends and developed loads in 10 or more t3s from 223 to 338 wm and all have shot good groups.
 
I suspect the recoil lug as well, check it before you fire your next loads. Shooting those boomers in a lead sled can be harmful to both the stock and the recoil lug. When the Tikka hit the market they filled a void that no one else had touched, and they have stayed there as the silent fat gurl in the corner silently waiting for the other cuter more popular girls to fail miserably in either the financial world or with quality control issues that have driven the masses in a different direction, and they sat there until they got the well deserved attention, from a price percentage point of view, although they seam overpriced in today's market have a look at what the competition costs and the condition of our dollar.
 
None in my safe anymore either! Various issues, but the deal breaker was dealing with their Canadian warranty centre...
One thing i will say tho, the bolt is smooth, and the magazine, altho not metal (don't let that plastic fool you!), is probably one of the better, strongest magazines made these days
 
I am listening to all of you, but..........A) this is not my rifle and I'm not sure how much work I'm willing to put into it for free.

B) I haven't written it off accuracy wise yet as I have seen many rifle/powder/bullet combos that just don't work sometimes. I have heard nothing but good about T3 accuracy so I'll try some more loads before I pass judgment there.

C) I suspect all the 300s that won't fire in the cold are all from one production run. These boys all bought them at the same place within a couple months, so it could be an anomaly only shared with that production run. And again I personally haven't had a chance to look at them, so even though I trust my son's word, he has nowhere near my experience with firearms and may be missing something simple.

D) If this were my rifle I'd sure as hell be taking a mill and Dremel to that ejection port, what a stupid design !! 3 or 4 or 6 times yesterday the case just kinda clattered and didn't clear the port and then lay there. The port is too small to get my dainty little pinkies in and the case doesn't readily fall out, you literally have to shake the sh!t out of it with the rifle held side ways.

E) And that OOOHHHH SSOOOOOO SMOOOOOTH bolt is nothing but a PITA in conjunction with that itty bitty ejection port when one is trying to determine the length of the leade. Which as it turns out is completely irrelevant due to the short magazine.

I can see that with a standard .473" cartridge in 308 to 57mm case lengths it is quite probable none of these problems I am encountering are an issue, but in my opinion this action, as designed, is not big enough to reliably function with 2.5"+ belted mags. And I wonder how the hell they get a 300 WM to work if it is already too short for a 338..........I realize that I am basing my observations on just one specimen but from what I have seen of what I consider serious design flaws, I would certainly never own one.......at least in a belted mag cartridge. It may well be a sweetheart in a 6.5X55 and be 100% reliable and I can see that this could well be a fact, or a 7X57 or 8X57 or any cartridge smaller and/or shorter, but I am seeing a lot of issues with this action/magazine and the belted mag case.
 
Curious to know why you pulled the bolt rather than drop the mag and ketch the round?

Well it works out to the same thing 'Looky.........push a button and pull part of the action away to remove said case.........either way it's a PITA.

yodave.......to my knowledge this rifle has never seen a lead sled, bought new by this owner just a few months ago and he doesn't own one and I NEVER use one, even though I bought one years ago cause it sounded like a good idea, until I realized, upon thinking about it's principal of operation, how much damage it could inflict upon a really expensive rifle. My shoulder will heal but broken stocks cost serious money..........;)

Kman.........I will do that and thanks for the heads up on the recoil lug thing. I'll pull the stock and look at it for sure, wobbly lug abutment will certainly destroy accuracy.
 
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I can see that with a standard .473" cartridge in 308 to 57mm case lengths it is quite probable none of these problems I am encountering are an issue, but in my opinion this action, as designed, is not big enough to reliably function with 2.5"+ belted mags. And I wonder how the hell they get a 300 WM to work if it is already too short for a 338..........I realize that I am basing my observations on just one specimen but from what I have seen of what I consider serious design flaws, I would certainly never own one.......at least in a belted mag cartridge. It may well be a sweetheart in a 6.5X55 and be 100% reliable and I can see that this could well be a fact, or a 7X57 or 8X57 or any cartridge smaller and/or shorter, but I am seeing a lot of issues with this action/magazine and the belted mag case.

I'm a Tikka fan, especially olders models.
I think T3's are good rifles.

BUT !!!

I heard alot of complaints about the T3 model in *big* calibers.
Personally, I would not buy one with beyond a certain size of caliber.

For the firing problem at -35, check if there is oil or grease in the firing pin assembly.
Maybe its not the problem but I would take a look there first.
If I remember well, its written in the user manual that librification on the firing pin assembly can cause FTF in cold weather.
So its best to avoid lubrification in those areas.
 
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