My first question to everyone who want to buy their first rifle is "what problem are you trying to solve?"
I have found that most people looking to purchase a 30-06 as a first rifle (at least you didn't say 300 Win mag) are enamored by the history and legend of the cartridge... not the practical side of it. Not that there is anything necessarily wrong with it, but that it was designed in a different time, chambered in different rifles and used by people of a different mindset.
Given that you are in BC, that does narrow the scope a bit. Western prairie provinces probably demand a different consideration... and you can adapt some of the requirements of flat open shooting to the BC interior and Eastern Ontario easier than the reverse. Here 270>30-30.
If your goal is hunting, i would strongly encourage you to pick a cartridge for shooting and practicing now, with enough capacity to shoot whatever you might want in the future... be realistic here... If Grizzlies are on your radar.... you probably want MORE than a 30-06. If deer is all you want to pursue... 30-06 is fine... but, less is more in this equation. Hunting is weeks of prep, time in the woods, walking, scouting and preparing to land one precise shot as naturally as breathing, under an number of unknown and unpredictable conditions (weather, range, speed, stress, adrenaline, etc etc.) The rifle you shoot... a lot... and master... creates far less friction, than one you do not shoot, due to ammo cost, recoil, flinch, etc.
I've seen more than one person (myself included in my youth and inexperience) purchase a rifle with too much power, in an incompatible package, and pay for it down the road over and over again. You cannot cheat physics, you can only decide where the cost is paid.
Now, if you do choose 30-06 or other full power cartridge and a 6-6.5 lbs rifle, with a thin barrel, and a flexible stock.
Physics will collect through recoil, blast, flinch, poor accuracy and overall a poor shooting experience and lack of practice.
Now you fight back with a heavier rifle, which pretty much takes all of the budget rifles off the table. Save maybe one. Now, I know you are thinking... but XYZ Youtuber reviewed the XYZ budget rifle and said it was good to go.
Consider 2 things... they shoot... a lot... or at least they do on TV. So they can compensate for things the beginner shooter has not yet learned... also... nobody is reviewing budget rifles in 30-06... otherwise they would be saying the stock is too flimsy... accuracy is bad... blah blah blah... They are reviewing them in 6.5 Creedmoor or MAYBE 308.
Speaking of 308... while 30-06 does offer a higher performance ceiling with handloading... that also increases those nasty physics side effects. As it stands, all things being equal, factory 30-06 produces 10-20% more recoil impulse over a 308... in a 10 lb rifle, that is trivial. In a 6lb rifle... not so much. However, the 308 offers a ton of factory loadings... in all manner of bullet weights, as well as surplus/ball ammo for practice, and reduced recoil, etc etc.
For hunting... i much prefer a tang safety and a detachable magazine. Most people agree on the tang safety... the magazine is a long drawn out debate... not getting into that here... but consider the conditions you will likely hunt in.
Optics.... the scope on your rifle ultimately has far more bearing on the success of your hunt than the cartridge the rifle is chambered in. I can take a long range, flat shooting, 7mm wonder mag, into the thick timber, and the biggest limiting factor will be the optic on top. Avoid anything that comes as a scope on a package rifle... this is a throw away item. You can spend $2-300 on a scope, stick it on the cheapest $500 factory rifle and you will be MILES ahead of a $900 "package" with a scope that you cannot see clearly out of when the sun goes behind a cloud... is constantly fogged up, etc. Just do not do it to yourself.
If you are set on 30-06, and trying to save money... here are my recommendations.
New Rifle:
Savage 334. While a little funky in some aspects... the trigger being the biggest downside, (though a good gunsmith can fix most of the issues for little $) they shoot well, are robust and have a much stiffer stock (polymer, also available in wood) than the Patriot from Mossberg (i really wish they would just stick to shotguns), Savage (think Axis), Ruger, Remington, etc. etc.
Used rifle:
Any of the OG original rifles from Remington, Stevens, Ruger, etc. Although the better versions do command a premium these days. This is where real wood, fixed floor plates, CRF, etc lives. Solid, robust. Classic.
Now.. once other cartridges enter the equation, things open up a lot.
308
New Rifle:
Once again the savage 334, but also the Model 10/11 in all manner of iterations and permutations. I still usually steer new shooters away from anything with a lighter flimsy stock with 308... it is manageable, but you are still fighting physics. Newer iterations of the Ruger American Gen 2 and Savage Axis are "ok" but the cost gets up there quickly.
Do not pass over the CVA Scout single shot either. These are fantastic little rifles that shoot well... though a little punishing on the recoil when it comes to 308, with reduced recoil loads, these are an excellent option. Even better when you get down below.
Used rifle:
This opens a lot. Savage 10 again. The OG Savage hog hunter, with the fixed floorplate and iron sites can usually be found at the price of an entry level new rifle and is leaps and bounds above them. All the older options also stand out... and now you can find some gems in brands like Tikka.
If other cartridges are a consideration (think 243, 6 and 6.5mm Creedmoor, 7mm-08 etc) you can legitimately open the floor to any rifle...new or used; though i would never recommend a Mossberg... i would stick to Ruger, Winchester, some models of Savage (try to stay away from the Axis), CVA (Scout single shot and their bolt action) lots of people like Howa... i do not for various reasons. If you can swing Tikka... it's a one and done. You will never need another rifle... (lets not talk about want) Pick whatever fits you and your budget that FEELS right. The rifle you like, is one you are more likely to shoot.
Having said that.. out of the 4 "other" cartridges i mentioned... your most "efficient" option is the 6.5 Creed. Despite all the hate it gets... it's popularity has the upside of producing infinite options when it comes to rifles, ammo choice, price, etc. Factory ammo is about as cheap as it gets for centerfire cartridges... with only 308 edging it out, due to age and the availability of surplus/ball ammo. With proper ammo choice, you can get up to Elk with this cartridge. With some caveats.
One last circle back to optics before i answer your last questions.
Do not skimp here. More hunts have been lost to crappy optics than probably any other gear related factor. Burris Fullfield E1, Bushnell... Sig, lots of good solid options here for under $300 and the used market has lots of options.
Final note: You will not have to register your hunting rifle... however the standard PAL check is required... and all your purchase info is recorded by the dealer... a registry that is not a registry... take that for what you will.
Final Final note. This stuff can be overwhelming... so try and think of it as "task, purpose, correct tool. At the end of the day, it's not that serious. Good luck and have fun.
