first of many

C

camerl2009

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well i just got my first antique handgun

its a percussion boxlock pistol about .45 cal

ok condition seems to be iron with some light pitting and rusty

needs a bit of work on the sear and hammer as it does not lock up the way it should

bore has pitting and the inside of the action has alot of rust

springs are ok

i'll try to get some pic's up soon :)
 
GOOD on you .You realize that you won't be able to stop at just one ! it is a sickness that there is no cure best of luck.
 
here's some pic's

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radom028.jpg


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i guess i need to change the date on my camera :p
 
There is one on the EE now (or it was there last I looked) with a screw off barrel and not a bad price either,could probably be shot with reduced loads.:eek:
Love those old guns, I started less than 2 years ago and now have 2 antiques,3 "modern smokeless" and 6 reproductions of old guns.........I will now cut up my credit card...:eek:
 
Skinny 1950 said:
There is one on the EE now (or it was there last I looked) with a screw off barrel and not a bad price either,could probably be shot with reduced loads.:eek:
Love those old guns, I started less than 2 years ago and now have 2 antiques,3 "modern smokeless" and 6 reproductions of old guns.........I will now cut up my credit card...:eek:
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yea JPC is who o got this one off of that one he has up is not a perfect match to the one i just got :(

i did find a perfect match to it but i cant find it now :p
 
I could be wrong but I think that this type of gun is called a " Muff Pistol" originally built with a flint lock and then percussion. They were the precursor to the derringer in terms of concealment
.
 
Skinny 1950 said:
I could be wrong but I think that this type of gun is called a " Muff Pistol" originally built with a flint lock and then percussion. They were the precursor to the derringer in terms of concealment
.
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muff pistol,boot pistol,ect

but the action is a box lock and yes thay where made in flint and percussion

these pistols may have cost all of .50 cents when thay where first made
 
first one

now to find the same in flint-heh,heh. they are addictive and the only way to justify moving one on is to get a better one. it's a good addiction i think-much like seeking the smell of black powder in the early morning. cheers
 
yea i know im looking but my wallet is empty :(

im hoping iots not going to be too hard to weld the trigget back up i dont know if its iron or steel affter that im going to have to harden it
 
muff pistol

it's not difficult to build up with gentle gas welding and then re-harden with casenite. if you were closer i could do that for you but you really need the piece to hand to ensure getting it right. actually for the amount of use it will probably see you could use lower temp nickle-silver braze as filler. regards
 
what kind of charge should i use for this i was thinking
10-20gr of 3f goex

since my measure does not go that low i'll use some scoops i made from brass i have a
.22lr,.22 mag, 9mm luger,and a 40 S&W
 
The hammer notches are good?
If the tip of the trigger is gone, I would be inclined to make a new trigger. Its possible to weld up little parts, but it is really sensitive welding. Or as mentionned a piece can be grafted on with silver solder. Not just the very tip, a larger section. With a new trigger heat treating is easy. The repair has to be good; real safety issue.
 
tiriaq said:
The hammer notches are good?
If the tip of the trigger is gone, I would be inclined to make a new trigger. Its possible to weld up little parts, but it is really sensitive welding. Or as mentionned a piece can be grafted on with silver solder. Not just the very tip, a larger section. With a new trigger heat treating is easy. The repair has to be good; real safety issue.
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yea the hammer notches are ok not too much wear its the trigger that the big problem

dam right its a safety issue it has what i call a good case of keep your finger out of the trigger guard the lightest touch drops the hammer :eek:
 
muff pistol

if it's the usual type, you fill the cavity under the ball seat-place the ball -screw it together and boom! usually caliber is about 40-45 so roughly 15 grns would be max. it's a short barrel so more powder won't make any difference. perhaps less to test it out first.
 
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