First Pheasant Hunt... FAIL

SeamusMac

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Hey guys n' gals,

I went on my first pheasant hunt yesterday and unfortunately came home empty handed. I saw a lot more then I thought I would, but I only got a single shot off all day and missed!

As a new hunter I'm not sure if I'm going about it the right way so I'd like some input on my gear/technique. I'm hunting with a Baikal MP-153 which is a 12g. semi-auto. I'm shooting Federal 2 3/4" no.4 shot shells through a modified choke. The barrel on the Baikal is 28" and has a front bead sight. I don't hunt with a dog and it's really not an option (unless someone in the Annapolis Valley wants to take me out with them :D) so I just slowly walk through my hunting area. The birds are flushing at about 40-50 yards and go straight into the brush. I'm hesitant to shoot as I don't know if I'll drop it or just wound it at 60ish yards. I haven't had a chance to pattern my shotgun at said range.

So, what I'm basically looking for are opinions on:
Sights
Ammo
Choke
Max Shooting Distance


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I would shoot 5's or 6's with the aid of a dog. At this time of the year late pheasants are tough... especially without a dog!! If you hit one and it's not stone dead they are almost impossible to secure without one. I have shot more than a few Midwest pheasant in the Dakotas so I don't know exactly what you mean about birds flying into the brush? Might be a N.S. thing but pheasants should be pheasants I would think. Birds I have hunted thunder out to the next county once flushed.
 
I haven't hunted pheasants for quite a few years, but we used to use #5 or #6 shot too. I think you've got the right choke choice.
 
Going on my own first hunt this saturday, pheasant it is .... The recommendation from the "old hands" is to stick to #6-1/2 or #7 shot ... Pheasants aren't particularly "tough" bird, so you can afford to have more, smaller pellets flying.
 
Going on my own first hunt this saturday, pheasant it is .... The recommendation from the "old hands" is to stick to #6-1/2 or #7 shot ... Pheasants aren't particularly "tough" bird, so you can afford to have more, smaller pellets flying.

Disagree - pheasants are TOUGH birds. If you wound it in the air, it will hit the ground running. I've blasted enough pheasants with multiple shells and they just don't die. I've had to choke the life out of or wring the necks of more pheasants than I have ducks or geese. Or cats (they're really pussies...HA!)

I hunt pheasants with No. 4's.
 
Disagree - pheasants are TOUGH birds. If you wound it in the air, it will hit the ground running. I've blasted enough pheasants with multiple shells and they just don't die. I've had to choke the life out of or wring the necks of more pheasants than I have ducks or geese. Or cats (they're really pussies...HA!)

I hunt pheasants with No. 4's.


I agree... pheasants are tough birds.
 
I use 3inch #5's in my 20 gauge semi auto with a modified choke, this is my choice of pheasant gun, I do plenty of bird hunting. I have a Beagle and a Vizsla to help me out. 12 gauge 2 3/4 #5 shot with modified choke would be ideal.
Agree... be quiet, they have great hearing and will run ahead and flush out of range. I also agree that they can take a solid hit and keep trucking, they fall hard and pop up and bolt. You want to knock'em down dead especially around corn.
 
Going on my own first hunt this saturday, pheasant it is .... The recommendation from the "old hands" is to stick to #6-1/2 or #7 shot ... Pheasants aren't particularly "tough" bird, so you can afford to have more, smaller pellets flying.

Pheasant are the toughest birds you will ever hunt! My advice is to pick a bird and keep firing at it until your shotgun is empty or the bird is well out of range. They often hit the ground running as well and believe me a wounded pheasant can run faster than any hunter.
 
I'll keep that in mind and squirrel away a box of #5, just in case .... Thanks for the advice folks. The reason I typed that "pheasants aren't particularly tough birds" is from a conversation I had with my uncle and cousin, both accomplished hunters, these are the guys that invited me. As they put it "if you show up with shot too big you won't have any bird left to eat !".

Mind you the uncle is still convinced that my Rem 870 "shoots harder" that his Benelli semi based on it's "mean" looks, from shortish barrel and and side folding stock.
 
Based on all the posts about wounded birds running I think I'll stick with #4 as I don't want to wound a bird and have it run into the swamp and die. I'd rather miss it altogether then have it go to waste.

I'm going to try taking it WAY slower next time round, they likely heard me coming through the brush. It's mostly thorns and shrubs that stick to clothes and break off with a audible "crack".

Knowing that my next trip will be my last trip of the year I'm going to keep firing until I see it drop. I have to get at least one ha ha, and my chances are better if I take 3 separate shots at 50, 60 and then 70 yards then they are if I only take one at 50.

Any advice on good sights? I'm looking at some Hi Viz ones for next year...

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SeamusMac,

Have you had an opportunity to pattern that MP-153 with F, IM, M tubes?

Great to hear that N.S. has wild pheasants (personally, I wasn't aware :redface:).

Since you are shooting out to 40-50yds and if that is the usual scenario for you and assuming you are used to effective/consistent hits at such distances - I would recommend the use of quality shells whichever pattern the best out of our shotgun ..... 2 3/4inch, 1/14oz loads of #5 (preferably) or #4 will work. I find Kent Ultimate Upland generally work well with most shotguns.

Bottomline, your patterns must have enough density/velocity to effectively penetrate the layer of feathers, muscle/bone to reach vitals. Pheasants are very tough birds, and on many ocassions, I've witnessed those to absorb pellets (much like waterfowl) and keep flying well into the next area code :mad:

Hunting without dogs can be equally challenging + frustrating. A bird not fatally wounded will usually hit the ground running and could even give a dog a run for it's money :D

Thought I'd add, personally, I would pass shots beyond 40yds but that's just me :)
 
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SeamusMac,

Have you had an opportunity to pattern that MP-153 with F, IM, M tubes?

Great to hear that N.S. has wild pheasants (personally, I wasn't aware :redface:).

Since you are shooting out to 40-50yds and if that is the usual scenario for you and assuming you are used to effective/consistent hits at such distances.
I would recommend the use of quality shells, whichever pattern the best out of your shotgun ..... 2- 3/4inch, 1-1\4oz loads of #5 (preferably) or #4 will work. I find Kent Ultimate Upland generally work well with most shotguns.

Bottomline, your patterns must have enough density/velocity to effectively penetrate the layer of feathers, muscle/bone to reach vitals. Pheasants are very tough birds, and on many ocassions, I've witnessed those to absorb pellets (much like waterfowl) and keep flying well into the next area code :mad:

Hunting without dogs can be equally challenging + frustrating. A bird not fatally wounded will usually hit the ground running and could even give a dog a run for it's money :D

Thought I'd add, personally, I would pass shots beyond 40yds but that's just me :)

Agree 100%.

Pheasants are a tough bird to hunt, never mind kill at most times, and need a good bit of lead hits to knock'em out of the air.

Ive always shot 12 ga with 1-3\8, #5 loads in lead, on birds and rabbits out of an open bore. :D

#4's are an ideal choice out of modified tube for the hearty bird.

Far as sights there's usually nothing wrong with the rail and beads offered on most shotguns. With a bit of practice you will be able to pickup, track, and shoot them on the wing but it may take some time to master wing shooting within two or three seconds and hit you're target.

Good luck in you're shooting!...:)
 
They are tough little buggers indeed.

We flushed one on Sunday but of course the SoB flew between me (the shooter) and my hunting partner who was handling a young dog.

By the time I got two shots off the hen was flying out of range. I use #6 on my IC barrel and #5 on my modified.
 
My buddy's take on how tough to kill pheasants can be.

" Shoot the bugger three times, wring its neck. Scald, pluck, gut, stuff then be sure to leave the oven light on while rosting or he may run away.
 
Based on all the posts about wounded birds running I think I'll stick with #4 as I don't want to wound a bird and have it run into the swamp and die. I'd rather miss it altogether then have it go to waste.

Bigger shot is by no means a guarantee that you will either kill or miss a bird.One or two marginal hits with #4 pellets may result in a lost bird,while an extra hit or two in a vital area with a #6 pellet might result in a clean kill.A denser pattern of slightly smaller shot can be more effective.
 
I'll pattern the shotgun once I'm done on Tuesday. I'll post the results and see what you guys have to say. The pheasant hunting season will be over for me but I'll be ready for next year and until then I'll shoot clays (as I cannot seem to find ANY rabbit or grouse).
 
Bigger shot is by no means a guarantee that you will either kill or miss a bird.One or two marginal hits with #4 pellets may result in a lost bird,while an extra hit or two in a vital area with a #6 pellet might result in a clean kill.A denser pattern of slightly smaller shot can be more effective.

X2, The old shotgun antage.. pattern kills not power. Using 4's on pheasant will result in a lot more busted wings and the like. Shoot within reaonable range with a dense pattern of quality lead ammo and keep hammerin at the bird until it drops. But if 4's work for you then by all means carry on.
 
Pheasant are the toughest birds you will ever hunt! My advice is to pick a bird and keep firing at it until your shotgun is empty or the bird is well out of range. They often hit the ground running as well and believe me a wounded pheasant can run faster than any hunter.


BS. Compared to any waterfowl, pheasants are lightweights.
 
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