First reloads

Tongarirohiker

Tongarirohiker

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Not since I first pressed a trigger have I been this excited. I bought myself a Lee Hand Press to load 9mm (I know, not the most efficient way but I figure the hand press will come in handy when I start shooting a rifle and reloading for that on the range), using Hornady 124gr FMJ-RN bullets and HS-6. According to the Hornady manual, my range is 5.1-5.9 gr of HS6. Most of my other manual's have a range of 6.1-6.8 for 124gr FMJ, but I figured I'd use the Hornady data as it was specific to the bullet and powder I bought.

Loaded 20 rounds at 5.2gr and put them through my CZ SP-01. Initial observations were that the loads were definintely less snappy than factory, and it seemed like they were hitting a bit high. I suspect that this is due to me anticipating the gun blowing up rather than a problem with the load. However, they did group well, and the felt recoil was gentler than factory which I shot after the 20 rounds of reloads.

So, now that I've got a good starting load that has no issues cycling my CZ, I've got some questions.

Have you had any experience with a Hornady LNL electronic scale? Mine kept wandering. I'd trickle some powder into the pan, it would climb up to 0.4-0.5gr, and then reset to 0. I'm now trying a Cabela's electronic scale. It seems to hold 0 fairly well, but do you think I should pair it with a balance beam scale like the RCBS 505 to spot check?

I find the powder gets stuck (static charge) to the inside of my powder funnel when I'm filling the case. Do you guys ever have this issue?

All that said, I'm not finding reloading with a hand press unpleasant. I managed to work up 50 rounds while watching an episode of NCIS. Rather than charging all of my cases at once, I'm charging and then immediately seating the bullet to prevent myself from accidentally double charging.
 
Welcome to the world of reloading!!

Many electronic scales will re-zero automatically if a small amount [.2 - .4 gn] of powder is put in the pan and then you pause.
The trick is once you start to put powder in the pan, continue until you are close to your charge weight, then trickle up.

Plastic funnel static can usually be minimized by washing your funnel with dishwashing detergent and allowing to dry.

Regards, Dave.
 
but I figured I'd use the Hornady data as it was specific to the bullet and powder I bought
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IMO, this is the smart thing to do. Newbies like us need to stick to published data that is specific to powder and bullet.

I find the powder gets stuck (static charge) to the inside of my powder funnel when I'm filling the case. Do you guys ever have this issue?
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Common problem, although the complaint is usually about sticking in the powder measure itself. Google is your friend on this one. Wipe all your stuff down with a dryer sheet. You can also try anti-static spray.

Have you had any experience with a Hornady LNL electronic scale?
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I have the same scale.. it's not fantastic but it shouldn't be wandering that much. Do the usual troubleshooting stuff:

* make sure it's level
* make sure it's clean
* check the batteries - try fresh ones
* keep it away from EM interference
* keep it away from vibration
* did you calibrate it with the check weight?

I also bought the Frankford Arsenal scale from Cabelas and liked it better.

I'd trickle some powder into the pan, it would climb up to 0.4-0.5gr
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I'm confused about this part. Are you saying you'd trickle some powder into the pan until the readout read 0.5 gr, and then the readout would suddenly reset to zero? If so, I don't think that's not normal functionality for any scale.. :)
 
I'm confused about this part. Are you saying you'd trickle some powder into the pan until the readout read 0.5 gr, and then the readout would suddenly reset to zero? If so, I don't think that's not normal functionality for any scale.
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PS: this is not what 'holding zero' means. Holding zero means that, every time you remove all weight from the scale, it returns to (and stays at) zero. This is important because, if your scale thinks that 'nothing' weighs .5 gr, then every time you weigh something it will read as .5 gr heavier than it actually is.

A common problem with electronic scales is that they 'drift'. Try turning on your scale, calibrating it, putting something on it and then leaving for half an hour. When you get back the reading will have changed. A big part of this is that the scale will get different results depending on things like temperature, but many scales also have a small accumulating error that adds up over time as it adjusts to try to account for things like vibrations, air currents, etc. that cause minor variations in internal readings from the load cell. So two more things I forgot:

* make sure you let your scale warm up for a bit before you use it
* isolate it from air currents
* isolate it from temperature changes
* use the tare function every couple of loads -- since you are seating bullets after each charge you can do this easily
* calibrate the scale more frequently, especially if you are seeing a lot of drift
 
I think that's kinda the norm for those Hornady LNL electronic scales. Mine does the same. I'll turn it on when I get to my bench so it'll be warmed up for about 15-20mins before I start to weigh powder.

I also noticed that my scale is 0.1gr heavier if most of the powder is on the back side of the scale. On occasion, I'll notice it creeping up to 0.5 grains or so. I've got to be uber conscious of that scale. I called Hornady and I was told to send it back for testing/warranty. I probably won't recommend this scale to anyone looking for a reliable digital scale unless you have a good sense of when it is going awry.

HeavyTread said:
* make sure you let your scale warm up for a bit before you use it
* isolate it from air currents
* isolate it from temperature changes
* use the tare function every couple of loads -- since you are seating bullets after each charge you can do this easily
* calibrate the scale more frequently, especially if you are seeing a lot of drift
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Good points mentioned there.
 
I have a PACT scale that will wander a tiny bit as well. Even air currents can change their readings. Its not a bad idea to also get a beam scale and check your electronic scale against the beam scale every so often.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I was talking about two things with the LNL scale, kinda wrote this up in a rush when I should have been paying attention in a meeting at work :D

Anyway, it had problems holding zero after a half hour into my reloading session. The first few throws of powder were fine, accurate, and a regular check with the check weight showed that it was still calibrated, and removing it returned to 0. After a half hour, I'd get randomness. I'd charge the case, and put the pan back on the scale. It would read in the negatives. I'd TARE it, charge the next case, put the pan back and it would read as 1.0gr. This freaked me out enough that I dumped the powder back into the pan and retried it. I'd TARE it again, and now the check weight was showing 1 grain less. I unplugged it for an hour, went back to it, let it warm up, and started weighing powder again. It held zero for about 15 minutes, and then bounced all over the place again.

On top of that, I was having issues with it drifting. I'd trickle in 0.5gr, and it would jump back to 0.

Thus far, the Cabela's scale has been trustworthy over an hour of reloading. It was also $40 which I'm not complaining about.

Thanks for the tips on the funnel. The bounce sheet worked like a charm. I now keep a stack at the loading bench.

Ganderite, any reason to avoid the Lee powder thrower?
 
I use a LEE scale, alway's have and after 25+ year's it settle's down pretty quick.
But they are VERY sensitive.
I also use the LEE powder thrower, and have never had a problem with it.
I'm a LEE guy.
 
zuke said:
I use a LEE scale, alway's have and after 25+ year's it settle's down pretty quick.
But they are VERY sensitive.
I also use the LEE powder thrower, and have never had a problem with it.
I'm a LEE guy.
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Ever used h110 or w296? Unless your wrench down the handle and make it near impossible to move the arm, it leaks powder like a mofo! Otherwise it's a great powder measure.
 
I use Accurate #7 for 45 Win Mag, Accurate #2 for 9mm and also use Blc-(2).
I found after time thing's loosened up, or lapped in so I tightened it up.
 
Spawn-Inc said:
Ever used h110 or w296? Unless your wrench down the handle and make it near impossible to move the arm, it leaks powder like a mofo! Otherwise it's a great powder measure.
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I measure H110/w296 by dipper, gives you a limited variety of quanta, but they are frustrating in a drum measure.
Luckily they are the only powders I use that are that frustratingly like fairy dust.
 
diananike said:
I measure H110/w296 by dipper, gives you a limited variety of quanta, but they are frustrating in a drum measure.
Luckily they are the only powders I use that are that frustratingly like fairy dust.
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I got frustrated enough as I use alot of h110 and got the RCBS uniform, works great for it.
 
Tongarirohiker said:
I'm new to reloading (obviously), but everything I have except for my calipers, scale and powder trickler are Lee. Been a pretty good experience thus far.
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Me too, thousands of rifle rounds have been loaded on my lee tools and never a hitch.

I do have some hornaday, Lyman and RCBS reloading equipment to, it's no better or worse then my lee stuff.

Just MHO!!
 
Tongarirohiker said:
I'm new to reloading (obviously), but everything I have except for my calipers, scale and powder trickler are Lee. Been a pretty good experience thus far.
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I'm fairly new to reloading also and all my dies and my powder measure are LEE.

Since all my rounds have gone "BANG" and my .223 ammo is more acurate than factory stuff, I'm guessing that LEE equipement can't be as bad as some guys make it out to be.
 
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