Just wanted to get some suggestions from you guys as to what you think would make a good first revolver. In terms of caliber, single action/double action, or even specific models. Keeping in mind that i would be planning on keeping it for a very long time, and it may also be the only one i ever purchase. In the end personal preferance and the feel of the gun will play the biggest factor in the decision, but would love some opinions to get me going in the right direction. Thanks!!
first revolver
- Thread starter cdnaufan
- Start date
- Location
- Sault Ste. Marie
I had a thread on this and most ppl were telling me to go with a .357 cause I can fire 38 spc with it too.
I concur with those recommending a S&W. Personally, I prefer the looks and balance of the ones that do not have the full underlug barrel. S&Ws also have the smoothest double action triggers and respond best to action tuning.
Whatever model tickles your fancy in .22LR, .38 Special, or .357 Magnum will probably serve you well. K-Frame .357s (Models 19 and 66) are best suited to shooting mostly .36 Special with moderate amounts of full power .357 loads. If you want to shoot lots of full power .357, either an L-Frame (Models 586 and 686) or an N-Frame (Models 27 and 28) would be a better choice.
Whatever model tickles your fancy in .22LR, .38 Special, or .357 Magnum will probably serve you well. K-Frame .357s (Models 19 and 66) are best suited to shooting mostly .36 Special with moderate amounts of full power .357 loads. If you want to shoot lots of full power .357, either an L-Frame (Models 586 and 686) or an N-Frame (Models 27 and 28) would be a better choice.
iamcanadianeh
CGN Regular
- Location
- Vancouver Island
I've had a few different models of S&W .22's
Get the 6" 617 if you decide to get a .22
Get the 6" 617 if you decide to get a .22
Canuck44, the double action trigger is a little long, but smooth, and the single action is relatively light. Fully adjustable rear sight allows me to zero it in real nice. haven't shot any .38's through it yet, but she handles .357's with surprising kind recoil.
First and only or first of a small family of nicely representative examples in a few different calibers?
For one and only one it's up to you but I'd say either a .357Mag or a .44Mag. With the .357 you can shoot .38's mostly with a few .357 here and there. With a .44Magnum only go for it if you reload. With reloading you can keep the cost down otherwise feeding the pig would eat you out of house and home in short order. And by reloading you could cut back the loads to more like .44Spl or .44Spl +P that produce a satisfying THUMP without shocking the hand and numbing the hand and wrist like after a cylinder or two of shooting full on factor Magnum.
The double action hand ejector types or single action western type is up to you but for my first I'm glad I went S&W Model 19. It's an amazing shooting gun. I followed it closely by a Model 29 and recently added a nice Model 10 to the family. If for some reason the family had to be broken up and sold the 19 would be the last to go of the revolvers and quite possibly the last gun in my possession to be sold if it came down to that.
If it's a .22 you want then there's S&W options in both the older classic blue as well as a few modern SS options. None of them will steer you wrong.
For one and only one it's up to you but I'd say either a .357Mag or a .44Mag. With the .357 you can shoot .38's mostly with a few .357 here and there. With a .44Magnum only go for it if you reload. With reloading you can keep the cost down otherwise feeding the pig would eat you out of house and home in short order. And by reloading you could cut back the loads to more like .44Spl or .44Spl +P that produce a satisfying THUMP without shocking the hand and numbing the hand and wrist like after a cylinder or two of shooting full on factor Magnum.
The double action hand ejector types or single action western type is up to you but for my first I'm glad I went S&W Model 19. It's an amazing shooting gun. I followed it closely by a Model 29 and recently added a nice Model 10 to the family. If for some reason the family had to be broken up and sold the 19 would be the last to go of the revolvers and quite possibly the last gun in my possession to be sold if it came down to that.
If it's a .22 you want then there's S&W options in both the older classic blue as well as a few modern SS options. None of them will steer you wrong.
I like the weight of a big revolver without too much kick; I had a Smitha dn Weeson 28-2 that I sold when I got my hands on a Smith and Wesson 27-2. In a gun this size, you can take the hottest loads quite easily, and it is like shooting a 22 when firing light 38 loads. That being said, I also own a S&W 617 that I really like also; the full underlug makes it ballance about the same as the N frame.
Your talking about your first and only gun to start with?
I would go with a S&W 586.
Why?
-38's are great to shoot and cheap enough.
-357's are a nice change and too much fun.
-Large frame makes a tough gun that can handle 357 power.
-S&W triggers can be easily worked nice.
-Reasonably priced used $450-600 bucks.
I would go with a S&W 586.
Why?
-38's are great to shoot and cheap enough.
-357's are a nice change and too much fun.
-Large frame makes a tough gun that can handle 357 power.
-S&W triggers can be easily worked nice.
-Reasonably priced used $450-600 bucks.
I agree with the guys suggesting a 586 or 686 Smith. They really are "do anything" guns. If the grips are too large or small they can be changed easily, they will take anything you throw at them, and with the right pistolsmith, the triggers can be made amazing. Also they come with very good useable sights out of the box, and are more accurate than you are with no work at all.
I would stay away from Taurus. They generally have crummy triggers, are more likely to have issues, and warranty service (including spare parts) is practically nonexistent from what I've heard. S&W has very good warranty/repair service through both M.D. Charlton and Wortner gun Works.
If you want one good gun that you intend to keep for years, price shouldn't be that big of a deal.
If you want one good gun that you intend to keep for years, price shouldn't be that big of a deal.
If you're buying new then something to cosider is the new Ruger offereings of some of their models with a 4 1/4 inch barrel. They even, mistakenly, say on the web site that this new length was done for hunting here in Canada. A bit of a misunderstanding but if I was looking for a new "almost prohibited" I'd be shopping Ruger right now.
I've had a chance to shoot some 4 inch barrel S&W's and there's no doubt that the 4 inch balances a lot nicer in the hand. Now other things come into play on this of course but all else being equal the shorter barrel both feels and looks sweeter.
Also most, if not all, revolvers will benifit hugely from a spring and action job to smoothen the action and lighten the springs. I can actually shoot my S&W Mod 10 in double action tighter than I can shoot my darned CZ Shadow and 1911 in single action. I'm not a marksman but I'm far from terrible with the semis but there's just something magical about the whole arrangement of the revolver and how it can be made to fit your hand and natural arc of the trigger finger being squeezed. And with a Wolff spring kit it becomes pure heaven. It's ALMOST like cheating...
At the end of a recent steel speed shoot out this way we were goofing around and I shot the 1.5 x 2 foot "finisher" out at 50 yards leaning out from behind a barricade and weak hand only. I got 5 out of 6 shots to hit in double action with my Mod 19. With two hands and not leaning it was child's play to hit 6 for 6. Sounds easy? YOU try it....
I've had a chance to shoot some 4 inch barrel S&W's and there's no doubt that the 4 inch balances a lot nicer in the hand. Now other things come into play on this of course but all else being equal the shorter barrel both feels and looks sweeter.
Also most, if not all, revolvers will benifit hugely from a spring and action job to smoothen the action and lighten the springs. I can actually shoot my S&W Mod 10 in double action tighter than I can shoot my darned CZ Shadow and 1911 in single action. I'm not a marksman but I'm far from terrible with the semis but there's just something magical about the whole arrangement of the revolver and how it can be made to fit your hand and natural arc of the trigger finger being squeezed. And with a Wolff spring kit it becomes pure heaven. It's ALMOST like cheating...
At the end of a recent steel speed shoot out this way we were goofing around and I shot the 1.5 x 2 foot "finisher" out at 50 yards leaning out from behind a barricade and weak hand only. I got 5 out of 6 shots to hit in double action with my Mod 19. With two hands and not leaning it was child's play to hit 6 for 6. Sounds easy? YOU try it....
