First time reloading, already wrecked my Die

No need to get the power tools out - yet... Spray WD 40 where needed. Insert case/decapping into shellholder, raise press ram towards die (pin lock nut loosened) You will see decapping pin spindle emerge through top of die. Tighten lock nut suffiiciently to hold. You can then release press handle, and tighten more, using two wrenches - one for the die body. Once secure, use the press to release the case from the pin.
This happens to me frequently - the pins are relatively loose from the factory
 
"...have to buy a new die set..." Relax. You don't have to buy new dies. You can either cut the case or if the decapping pin is stuck in the primer hole, gently tap it out with a punch. Decapping pins break or get bent regularly with all makes of dies. If worse comes to worse, just replace the pin. They're cheap.
Lubing the inside of the case mouth every 5 rounds or so lubes the expander button a tick. I've always just stuck the case mouth into my lube pad and twisted a bit.
"...Brass fired from your own rifle does not need full length resizing..." Only in a bolt action. Semi-autos, levers and pumps need FL sizing every time.
 
rideauwrangler said:
Lee Deluxe Rifle Dies are advertised as supposed to not require case neck lubrication but that's complete bulls**t! I always lube bottle necked cases outside but not always inside. Be sure to send the die back for replacement as there should be a lifetime gaurante on it.
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I believe the "no case neck lubrication" comment that Lee makes pertains to their neck-sizing collet die (which is one of the dies included in the deluxe set). In this respect, it is true that no lubrication is necessary since the mechanism for sizing the case/neck is a squeezing force perpendicular to the neck, rather than a sliding/compressing force. There's much less friction involved in the former, hence no need for lube.
 
joe-nwt said:
Just curious, why is this considered a safety feature?
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Ever do something really dumb, like try to punch a hole in a case that was either Berdan, or had a rock in it? The Lee die's design allows it to slip, and not break the pin.
With an RCBS, you break the pin, and maybe bend the rod.
RCBS will of course send you a new pin, and even a rod for free. But you are done loading until it arrives.
By the way, I did manage to punch a hole in a Berdan case with a Lee die once. I didn't even realize I had done it until I went to seat the primer. No damage to the die what so ever.
 
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HOLY MOLY, thank you all for your comments and suggestions. I will be out in my shop tonight to fix this. I had been online with the seller of this reloading equipment to ask about another die. I will just fix it myself.
I am sure glad I found this site and asked. You guys make me proud to be Canadian. I will keep you all posted on how I do.
Obviously the primer decapper rod was too loose from the factory. I will reinsert it and tighted the bloody hell out of it.
Again thanks to all who came to my rescue.
 
Hi-Standard said:
It's considered a safety feature in the fact that it makes the decapping pin unbreakable. The decapping rod will slip through collet if you hit a berdan primed case. It has nothing to do with safety in reloading.;)
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BOLLOCKS!

That's why I have replaced 8 Lee decapping stems because the pins broke off.
 
To lube or not to lube the inside of the neck is a case of judgement. Mostly I don't lube, but for some reason, sometimes the the sizer comes out very hard. So, in some manner clean, or lube the inside. I think the type of powder has something to do with it and pushing a brass bore brush through the neck usually works fine.
I might add, though, that cleaning or lubricating the neck makes for a smoother operation, as compared to doing it as is.
 
Even with the scored up pin on my 6.5X55, I've never managed to break one. I have bent it though. Straightened easily.

My guess, is the case was half full of media. I've had it stick when the case is damp. Just dumping the case doesn't clear it.
 
Sorry if I haven't studied every response and it's already answered.

Yes, just loosen the nut, lower the decapping pin shaft back up through the collet and re-tighten. That should be enough to remove it. Always lube the inside of the neck - it makes it much easier to pull the sizer ball out and causes less wear on the inside of the neck. Make sure you remove the lube afterwards with a neck brush, or you'll get powder sticking to the lube that's left there when you charge the case, and the lube could cause less bullet grip (although I can't prove it).
 
HI ALL!!!!
Its me , the guy who started this informative thread. I took all of your advice and managed to get the rod back in the die and tighten the collet enough that it came out easily.
I have all my cases sized and primed now, just waiting for a friend to oversee me charging the cases and seating the bullets. I cant wait to get some roll my owns.
The rifle is a .300 win mag. Savage 116fcss. Weather warrior. Drop clip. stainless. synthetic. Anyhow, when I get some rollies smoked at the range I will let you know how I did as I will have a chrony with me and lots of targets and a micrometer so............... If anyone has a recipes for my gun, please let me know.
Right now I have :
---40 Federal and 60 winchester brass (shot from my gun)
---winchester large rifle magnum primers
---1 Lb Reloader 22 and 1lb Reloader 19
---50 Nosler accubonds 180 grain
---50 Barnes 165 grain Triple shock X bullets (solid coppers)
If anyone has any safe data for reloading this combo or something similar , or any safe starting loads please let me know ASAP. I may have only an hour or 2 of this mans time and I want to maximize it. Thanks in advance from an appreciative novice.:sniper::dancingbanana:
 
300 MAG loads

Good to see a new reloader first get some cheaper bullets.The ones you have are high price hunting bullets.Use the cheaper ones to find out what your gun likes first.Lymans load book.
Our data was developed using standard Winchester primers and the use of a magnum primer will cause a pressure increase. when using magnum primers work up loads cautiously and stay at least one grain below the maximum listed loads
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I've used standard primers with good results with both the powders you have.Used ?6.0 gr of RL22 in the 180 Noslers worked for me.
 
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ZIGZAG said:
Good to see a new reloader first get some cheaper bullets.The ones you have are high price hunting bullets.Use the cheaper ones to find out what your gun likes first.Lymans load book. I've used standard primers with good results with both the powders you have.Used ?6.0 gr of RL22 in the 180 Noslers worked for me.
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You should check your load again, if that's for a .308, then you're in trouble.
 
Sgt.Rock: the collet around decap rod needs to be VERY tight. This process will sometimes break the top off collet, unless you lube thread-only(remove steel shavings-dirt first). NO lube on decapping shaft. Some expanders(all brands) are very roughly machined. Chuck in a drill and polish rough surface with very fine emery paper(320-600 grit). Good luck
 
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