First Time Shooting My New Russian SKS...A Bit of a Bummer. Trigger Not Resetting

[thegazelle]

I just bought a new SKS last week. Took everything apart to clean except for the trigger group, which I left as is due to my lack of handy and gunsmithing skills I got almost all the cosmoline off the various parts (especially bolt assembly, gas piston tube, etc).

My SKS is a 1953 Tula and have all matching serial numbers on the components.

Once I cleaned it, I function tested it each time. Last round bolt hold open works. Release bolt works, magazine is functional, and I dry fired the rifle each time on function check. Safety works. All the parts that oftentimes people suggest be cleaned I have cleaned.

I couldn't wait to shoot it tonight for the first time.

So I loaded up some non-corrosive ammo on stripper clips and at my range tonight it was the first gun I took out. I had a fellow range member with me who was giddy to see how it performs (he previously had an SKS as well).

Loaded the 5 rounds of Norinco non-corrosive, pulled back on the bolt and let it rip.

I have never shot an SKS before so was pretty stoked. I released the safety, aimed at my target and took a shot. Success! The recoil was not bad at all and I looked forward to my next shot. Until...

I pulled the trigger again after acquiring my target. Trigger wouldn't pull - it was like the safety was on.

Fellow range member suggested I unload the gun. So I switched on the safety, pressed on the magazine and all the rounds (remaining 4) fell out.

I then latched the magazine and then decided to load 2 rounds from the top with the bolt open. Released the bolt, acquired target, pulled trigger, another successful round. Then I pulled the trigger again. Same thing - it was stuck and would not reset.

Emptied the magazine again and put it back on safe. Fellow range member cycled the bolt and tried dry firing, which worked, at least for a few times. Then we tried to load one round manually and sent the bolt home. Turned off safety, pulled trigger and now not even the one round works.

Unloaded that, safetied and then cycled the bolt and turned off safety and tried pulling the trigger. It was stuck now and now it doesn't even dry fire.

Again, when I took the trigger assembly out when taking the gun apart, I did not disassemble any part of it. Range members said maybe there is some cosmoline gunk in there. I didn't really see any but it was suggested maybe I try soaking it in mineral spirits or such or try to spray something like brake fluid on it and clean it.

Given the fact that I have zero trigger assembly/disassembly experience, am not a handy guy and know little to nothing about these things - any ideas a) what could be wrong here and b) what can be tried? It is really weird that before I took it to the range tonight, every single function test and dry firing at home was without issue. Further, I am perplexed why that first round fired but the second one did not - the bolt did automatically cycle back to closed position each time. And yes, gas piston tube and such are all clean.

Thanks in advance for any feedback and suggestions.

 

[fritzhanzel]

Is the trigger group all the way locked into place?

 

[thegazelle]

Is the trigger group all the way locked into place?

Yes...it was pushed in until the audible click as it latches itself on that nubby thing on the receiver - it takes brute strength each time to get that trigger group in but 100% it is locked in place (since everytime, it takes equally significant strength to push a punch into that release piece to get it to pop free. I can certainly try again tomorrow to take it out and reinsert.

 

[45ACPKING]

i wouldn't mess with it.
It should be problem free or return it to where you purchased it from.

 

[Chas59]

You tube is your friend. I would certainly try soaking the trigger assembly in mineral spirits. Each SKS I’ve had (3) I’ve given a full bath to totally eliminate all cosmoline. Trigger assembly can be very stiff and often needs some extra cleaning and lube. Good luck.

 

[buzzmagoo]

Ya you probably have a gunked up spring in the triger group.

 

[Buck1950]

thegazelle - Here's a link to a brief thread about what's probably your problem - or as others have suggested possibly just dirty.
http s://www.northeastshooters.com/xen/threads/russian-sks-disconnector-issue.185431/
and here is the search I used, there are many other links with possible solutions. I hope it's a simple adjustment, not needing parts.
http s://www.bing.com/search?q=adjust+sks+disconnector&qs=n&sp=-1&pq=adjust+sks+disconnector&sc=8-23&sk=&cvid=BBF8A0D8531E4977836DE39F7EE6E5F4&ghsh=0&ghacc=0&first=7&FORM=PERE

 

[thegazelle]

Thanks very much for the responses.

I took out the trigger group today and threw it in a boiling pot of water. Some cosmoline came floating to the surface. Then I just rinsed it in some soapy Dawn hot water and then put it on low heat in my toaster oven to dry. I will get some mineral spirits and douse it in that after.

I thought long and hard about taking it back to the retailer and in the end I decided that I won't. I don't want my money back and it would be roll of the dice to get an exchange, particularly when the others I have seen have mix-matched parts, or not matching s/n or have rust on other parts of the receiver. My receiver is in good shape, everything has been cleaned except the trigger group and if I have to end up learning how to work on triggers, this may be a good project. I figured it's not like a new gun where a gun with a defective part can be exchanged for another new one. Most SKSes sold in retail stores are AS-IS just like buying a used car, and I figured unless something is truly broken, it may be an opportunity stop using the crutch of my having no handy skills and actually learn something. My biggest fear is I may make something worse, but I'd rather keep and try to figure out what's wrong here rathe than roll the dice on another one which may have issues elsewhere (the rest of the gun is in good shape and I am comfortable taking everything else apart).

I did do a youtube search last night and saw some things related to this and most that weren't. Seems like many problem are relating to pressing the trigger and it goes click but nothing happens. One guy had a video about filing off 1/8" off that disconnection bar - it's that kind of stuff that makes me leery. But when the trigger group cools down, I will install it back into the gun and then if it still doesn't go click, I will do the mineral spirits (though I am doubtful that would do anything different).

 

[thegazelle]

I put the trigger group back and snapped it in place. Still same thing - trigger not resetting and can't pull trigger even when safety is off.

Posting some photos now Will post some photos of it in case anyone notices anything unusual.

 

[Curtton]

now, reassemble without the wood stock and go thru your steps but this time watch (mark) the disconnector carefully. btw, oil the joints a bit.

 

[C.308]

If the bolt moves back and ejects the spent case it must be cycling far enough to reset the trigger. (Not a gas problem)

Does the hammer follow the bolt after firing a round (drops, cycles and follows the bolt back to the dropped position? In other words not cocking) Or is the sear/disconnect not engaging/ out of alignment but the hammer cocked?

Is the recoil knocking the trigger group out of the locked in position? If it's not in properly it wont fire and you need to see if it stays in since you said it clicks in.

Perhaps an issue with the sear/ disconnect (terminology?) Maybe it's been altered (bubba trigger job) might be worth checking marstar for a spare trigger group if you insist on keeping it. (Of course if cleaning it doesn't help). I'm unconvinced dirt would cause this especially after you've cleaned it far more thoroughly than ive ever seen done.

 

[thegazelle]

If the bolt moves back and ejects the spent case it must be cycling far enough to reset the trigger. (Not a gas problem)

Does the hammer follow the bolt after firing a round (drops, cycles and follows the bolt back to the dropped position? In other words not cocking) Or is the sear/disconnect not engaging/ out of alignment but the hammer cocked?

Is the recoil knocking the trigger group out of the locked in position? If it's not in properly it wont fire and you need to see if it stays in since you said it clicks in.

Perhaps an issue with the sear/ disconnect (terminology?) Maybe it's been altered (bubba trigger job) might be worth checking marstar for a spare trigger group if you insist on keeping it. (Of course if cleaning it doesn't help). I'm unconvinced dirt would cause this especially after you've cleaned it far more thoroughly than ive ever seen done.

Thanks. What I think the problem may be is the bolt riding on that disconnector which I can see is spring loaded. From what I understand, that is pivotal in the reset. I guess a good way to test this would be to manually press down on the disconnector and then try pressing the trigger with the assembly out of the gun and just have someone hold the hammer. If I press the disconnector far enough and the trigger works and the hammer is released, then it is maybe some alignment issue - which of course, I'm going to be hard pressed to figure out how to fix...

Now, based on what happened yesterday, the first round did eject - quite forcefully which is good and the bolt cycled back and forth. It was the second round which there was no trigger click. After the mag was emptied, manually loading a second cartridge allowed another successful fire, but the secondary cartridge had the trigger not working. After that nothing worked.

Unfortunately due to how fast everything happened I wasn't able to inspect the components each time to see the operation.

I am OK to continue to work on this as long as nothing is broken and maybe learn something in the process. I realize it's an old gun so just like anything of this age, there may be quirks here and there...I also prefer to keep this all together due to the matching serial numbers.

I bought this retail at one of our site sponsors and had a chance to choose one out of several I looked at.

 

[fritzhanzel]

Could very well be that somebody messed with it already and returned it to the dealer for an exchange.

 

[thegazelle]

just to keep my options open, I called the retailer and explained everything. They asked me to put everything in an email and they will engage their distributor to find out next steps.

In the meantime any further ideas for what I can look at/try (aside from filing down the disconnector) - let me know.

 

[The_Red_Rabbit]

For dry fire, did you do the follow:

1. Check the gun is empty.
2. Open the mag cover.
3. Put back the bolt carrier to the end and let go.
4. Dry fire, and do not let go/ reset the trigger.
5. Use your other hand, cycle the action.
6. Release the trigger.
7. You should hear the reset.

You should not take apart the trigger assembly unless it is absolutely necessary. I would also soak everything with CLP.

 

[fritzhanzel]

For dry fire, did you do the follow:

1. Check the gun is empty.
2. Open the mag cover.
3. Put back the bolt carrier to the end and let go.
4. Dry fire, and do not let go/ reset the trigger.
5. Use your other hand, cycle the action.
6. Release the trigger.
7. You should hear the reset.

You should not take apart the trigger assembly unless it is absolutely necessary. I would also soak everything with CLP.

And make sure the squiggly end of the recoil spring goes into the bolt carrier and the straight one sits in the receiver cover hole properly.

 

[thegazelle]

Regarding squiggly end of recoil spring - yes, it has always gone in squiggly end first.

I did reassemble trigger pack with the receiver outside of the stock, run the bolt and checked the trigger - no difference, it wouldn't move. Only difference was doing this made it inordinately more difficult to pop the trigger assembly back out of the receiver after, since there was no stock helping to assist with the resistance.

When I did dry fire it within the last week, I did it sometimes with the mag cover open and sometimes closed. And yes, I did not ride the charging handle.

Everytime I dry fired I let go of the trigger and then cycled the bolt again.

Right now, dry firing doesn't work as the trigger is not moving whatsoever

 

[Buck1950]

thegazelle, I finally found the doc I wanted to send you earlier. I had saved the info but not the link, which is here -> https://votefordavid.########.com/search?q=sks
You need not 'do the mods' at first but it does give you a good explanation of how the action runs. And below are a couple other links to info on the action that may help you. Just look this over before you do anything 'to' the rifle.
AND DO NOT cut off the disconnector like that Y-T vid advised - a comment on that vid explained how that would likely make the problem worse.
Hope some of this helps, I went thru this whole thing back in the 'teens with a $150 CanTire SKS. I've got my trigger down to about 3# after 'polishing' lots of stuff inside and especially making the Sear have the correct engagement angle and 'super polished'.
Good luck on your quest,
Buck

https://www.yooperj.com/SKS-13.htm -- Near bottom of page, section titled "reworking an SKS trigger" has a good description of how Disconnect works

https://www.yooperj.com/SKS-25.htm -- Hammer / Sear relationship

 

[Buck1950]

BTW - In that 'bad' video, if you hold the disconnector with your thumb like he does at first, IF you get the trigger bar at the right point the Hammer will smash your thumb !!
I always use a piece of scrap wood, like a tongue depressor or such.

 

[veeshooter]

Tagged for interest.