Fixing the Tikka T1X with my 3D printer
- Thread starter Jahnj0584
- Start date
My scope has a total of 18 mrad of adjustment, and as it's set now that is +7 -11. Shooting 200y is 8.3, so I had to use the holdovers on my reticle. Im shooting an event in july that goes out to 300 y, so I want to be prepared better.
~8 mrad is about .5 deg, which is exactly 30 moa. That should shift me to +15 -3 of adjustment range.
I though about shimming the back ring by 0.03" and then lapping the front one to match the angle, but I may as well just do this right from the get go.
I will not spend $100+ on a 4" section of aluminum, so naturally I'll spend 20 mins drawing it, 45 minutes programming it, and an hour or two making it at work. Logical!
Will have to find what screws to use too. I believe theyre 6-48 right now.
~8 mrad is about .5 deg, which is exactly 30 moa. That should shift me to +15 -3 of adjustment range.
I though about shimming the back ring by 0.03" and then lapping the front one to match the angle, but I may as well just do this right from the get go.
I will not spend $100+ on a 4" section of aluminum, so naturally I'll spend 20 mins drawing it, 45 minutes programming it, and an hour or two making it at work. Logical!
Will have to find what screws to use too. I believe theyre 6-48 right now.
Those are some slick parts. Someday i might figure out how to prevent, after i spend 1/2 the afternoon leveling and getting everything perfect.. print 1 successful file my Ender's head from crashing into the bed,
I find the Tikka stock fits me really well. My wife however would really benefit from that cheek riser. The extended mag release, i will take 2 as soon as they are ready.
I find the Tikka stock fits me really well. My wife however would really benefit from that cheek riser. The extended mag release, i will take 2 as soon as they are ready.
No, i found a used one for $25 and a 3D scanner wasn't available back then. Not worth the hassle for me.
Bed needs to be clean of oils and leveled correct. Try a brim.
I have a spare aluminum mag release laying around.
Depends how small and detailed you need to get. Technically, all you need is a camera. The iPhone's lidar data has limitations.
muzzle device ?"varmint" comb test fit and made a mock suppressor. 3D printed threads work right out the gate.
If by any chance you're using Fusion to design with, you might want to check out my 3D printed threads util. It automatically adjusts threads definitions to work better with FDM printing.
https://github.com/ShortyCM/3D-Printing-Threads-For-Fusion
