Flash hider / Front sight removal on newer M305 models...

[Jonesyatpl]

Before I cause any cosmetic or mechanical damage....

I looked at the old YouTube videos on removing the Flash hider / front sight with the tack welds.

Mine is a 2013, and doesn't seem to have the welds. I have removed the castle nut retaining pin, the front sight pin, and the castle nut is loose. The front sight is still solidly on. With the newer models, since there is no tack weld, my question is: do you still tap off the front sight while walking the castle nut forward, or is the whole flash hider assembly threaded on? I have a new metric norinco-threaded muzzle brake on the way, and don't want to mess up the threads.

Thanks!

Jonesy

 

[Jon.]

Mine had 2 invisible welds underneath. I had to resort to the dremel to get it off... Carefully.

 

[jakester]

You do not have to remove the front sight. As you unscrew the castle nut, the flash hider should move forward. The FH has a set of 3 longitudinal splines that mate up with a corresponding set machined into the barrel. The FH may need to be tapped on the backside with a hammer and a brass drift as you unscrew the nut if the splines fit tightly to the barrel.

 

[TacticalTeacher]

All depends on which day of the week your high school shop class put your Norinco M305 together!

One can get lucky! And that's all good!

 

[Jonesyatpl]

Thanks, guys. I will break out the brass drift and confidently get to work. Looking for hidden welds first....

I normally wouldn't remove the front sight, but it is going on the new combo muzzle brake / sight mount.

 

[notsorichguy]

I find it helps to "pre-load" the castle nut to the forward portion of opening.

A good solid vise with the barrelled receiver pointing to the floor. A nice wide cold chisel with a piece of leather to protect the bayo-lug and whack with a 2# hammer.....

Repeat as needed to remove the FH.

Clean up the weld spots on the barrel and the FH (if you intend to re-use it).

Cheers!

 

[Mauser GDog]

I had to use a lot of force when removing a FH from my 2013 Marstar Norc, using notsorichguy's method...more or less.

The spot welds were almost invisible from the outside.

 

[jakester]

Just to clarify, my advice was for a FH that is NOT welded. If it is indeed spot welded, (usually 2 places on the bottom) then use one of the methods known to work for that scenario. The rifles that had holes drilled through the bottom of the FH in 2 places and plug welded are easy to spot, but require more work to remove, especially if the welds took a good bite into the barrel.

 

[Lowestform]

I just used a vice, some v blocks to hold the barrel, another block of hardwood against the flash hider, and a 2lb hammer.

 

[1-trident-1]

on your newer norc, look at the barrel end of the FH ,on the underside, there should be two holes side by side . if they are there, they forgot to weld, otherwise they are filled in. if they are not filled in, it's just factory crud keeping it on . some whacks on a wooden block will work it off, loosening the castle, of course.

 

[shawn]

HAMMER TIME

That's how LOL

Shawn

 

[Porkchopsandwhich]

I had one that wasn't welded just had holes drilled for for the spots and one that broke on one hit from the hammer. They both had blasting media on the splines and threads which makes turning the castle nut off hard and might also bind the flash hider slightly.

 

[dahs]

My '13 had nicely cleaned up welds. Couple good whacks and they broke. Clean up the barrel with emery cloth.

 

[gnmontey]

I had to drill the spot welds on my 07. No amount of hammering would budge the hider.

M

 

[shawn]

I had to drill the spot welds on my 07. No amount of hammering would budge the hider.

M

As Barney would say, you should put down your purse

Shawn

 

[rb2]

As Barney would say, you should put down your purse

Shawn

LOL. I broke mine on Barneys receiver hitch vise in Kelowna last September.

 

[1-trident-1]

so Jonesy, did it come off? inquiring minds need to know.

 

[Jonesyatpl]

Well, yes, it did And a great many thanks to all those who offered solid advice. Prevented me from tossing the action into a smelter in anger

It was the craftiest welding job I've heard of yet. Ended up, there WERE welds. But somehow 3/8" up inside the bottom of the flash hider sleeve. Not visible at all from the outside. So either soldered on then slid on the sleeve when hot, or some sort of capillary action magic. End result, no amount of hammering with cold chisel would get it off, until I cut the factory flash hider off the front, removed the castle nut, and then had two of us knock it seriously around. Did not damage the finish elsewhere at least. Any flecks in the finish in the pic is stuff off the bench... Still need to sand down the welds.

And the next question in this thread. So far using just thread locker to keep it in place, indexing-wise. But it won't withstand the recoil for more than a few shots. Any suggestions on an aesthetically pleasing way to hold it with just threads on the barrel. I shudder to use the 'JB Weld' idea without someone making a bubba comment. But that's all that's floating around in my melon right now. Tig weld I thought, but then again removable would be nice.

Now sporting a nice (needing a paint/cerakote job) combo front sight and proper muzzle brake. Threaded in Norinco metric. Took about an inch + off the length of the shorty 305. Saves me a few ounces of weight. Range trip will tell if the brake reduces recoil or not....

On to the next thread as well. 'Stock screw' thread started above this one!

 

[ThatM305Guy]

If you don't mind me asking, where on earth did you find a norc threaded muzzle brake??

Also, if you have access to a lathe (or know someone who does) then you can shave small increments off the threaded end of the brake until it makes contact at about 10 or 11 o-clock position, and then torque it from there. That's what I did with mine.

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[Jonesyatpl]

Mine came from Extreme shooting center in Winnipeg. Metric threading!

Tightened up to index perfectly at the top