flexible Remington 700 sps stock fix?

Stillar

Regular
EE Expired
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Location
Northern Ontario
Was wondering if shaping a washer and using it as a shim for the front bolt that holds the stock to the barrel would raise the barrel off the stock enough to free float it. I was thinking of bedding the stock with fiberglass at the same time to make sure there was a tight connection between stock and the receiver area of the barrel. w:h:
 
Was wondering if shaping a washer and using it as a shim for the front bolt that holds the stock to the barrel would raise the barrel off the stock enough to free float it. I was thinking of bedding the stock with fiberglass at the same time to make sure there was a tight connection between stock and the receiver area of the barrel. w:h:

I would glass bed it ensuring that the barrel floats the difference in accuracy can be startling. there is a good tutorial on this site on how to use devcon as an agent.
 
I bent a washer around my tire iron to give it a curved shape. I then bedded my rifle with the washer around the front bolt that holds the barrel to the stock. It gives an eighth of an inch clearance between the stock and the barrel just above the bipod. I filled in some of the voids in the stock with some of the extra fiberglass bedding material I had left over. This should stiffen things up a little. I have to wait a few days before testing out my new rig. I'll tell you how it all worked out after testing it at the range. :)
 
i admire the enginuity and effort put in to what youve done, but honestly your just polishing s#it, the sps tac stock is terrible no matter how you cut it! i hope your efforts yeild results for you, but i would seriously consider creeping the EE looking for a better stock
 
i admire the enginuity and effort put in to what youve done, but honestly your just polishing s#it, the sps tac stock is terrible no matter how you cut it! i hope your efforts yeild results for you, but i would seriously consider creeping the EE looking for a better stock

I have high hopes for my new bedded and free floated sps stock. I hope to be able to shoot the eye out of a squirrel at 300 yards and time the shot between blinks in order to save the eye lid meat. ;)
 
I bent a washer around my tire iron to give it a curved shape. I then bedded my rifle with the washer around the front bolt that holds the barrel to the stock. It gives an eighth of an inch clearance between the stock and the barrel just above the bipod. I filled in some of the voids in the stock with some of the extra fiberglass bedding material I had left over. This should stiffen things up a little. I have to wait a few days before testing out my new rig. I'll tell you how it all worked out after testing it at the range. :)

Have you thought of bedding something into the foreend like a arrow shaft to help stiffen it up???
 
Have you thought of bedding something into the foreend like a arrow shaft to help stiffen it up???

I just typed a response to another thread on this exact idea! It works and is very easy to do. The stock stiffens up nicely, and although it doesn't equal an aluminum bedding block, it improves the Hogue stock tremendously. Since I find the Hogue extremely comfortable to use, it was a win/win for me. It is cheap and quick to do, so if you don't like the results you aren't out a lot of time or money.

John
 
I use the plain jane stock in my SPS varmints and I love them. They are only used in a .204, but my varmint guns aren't fancy furniture. Scratches, dings, stains are all part of their character.

Using Devcon will stiffen them very well if that's what you want to do, or pick up a cheap Boyd's laminate stock. Never any problems with flimsy laminates...
 
Hey Stillar. I tried to work on a 700 SPS stock and bedded it etc. I don't know if it helped my shooting much (best groups were after it bedded but not consistent), but it was a great learning experience. Might as well learn on a cheap stock so when you get an amazing one you know how to set it up!
 
I bedded my .223 SPS Tac Houge stock...... I used a couple of tungsten tig rods to stiffen up the barrel channel. I also added about 4800gr of cast lead boolits to weigh it down.....

With handloads (25.5gr of Benchmark, win brass, Fed Match SRP, 50gr Nosler BT) I manage .6" groups at 200y if the wind is down....... When the wind picks up to 15 Kph, drift is a killer, over 3" if I don't watch the flags......

Why pay big $$$$$ for a brand name stock when for the price of 2 packs of smokes you can make what you have work quite nicley......

I liked the .223 so much I bought one in .308........ I bedded it as well, and how do you like this for a 10 shot group @ 200y! wind was L to R @ 10K. First shot (cold barrel, just cleaned and oiled) is the only one not touching the rest......

IMG_0079.jpg
 
Nice shooting... I took my bedded rifle out last night and I didn't do as well as you did. I was shooting at half the distance as well. I'm not using my good ammo yet so I hope things get better. :cool:
 
The differance between Factory ammo and my tailored handloads is about 3" at 200y.

Don't sell your rifle short till you develop a load.

IMO, the differance between a 'good' rifle and a 'bad' rifle is usually load tunning. You can get any rifle to shoot 1.5" at 100y. A good rifle will shoot many loads (different powders and bullets) well. A bad rifle may only shoot 1 combination really well.

Cheers!
 
I used a 3/16" -12" long drill bit to drill two holes from the tip of the fore to in front of the recoil lug. Inserted two threaded rods with washers and lock nuts on each then tightened and set with epoxy. Stock is quite ridgid now.
 
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