Flintlock; how much do they tend to go for?

mr00jimbo

mr00jimbo

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I saw a couple of them at the range. They sounded very quiet! I was impressed. You do not need a PAL for these, correct? I guess just gunpowder, a stick to pack the contents down and some ammunition?

Are they safe? Are they costly?
 
Correct, no PAL required. Black powder, ball, patches, lubricant, short starter, flint and ramrod are about all you require to get started. Many guys will give you a package deal if they know you are a new BP shooter. They are about as safe as the shooter is. They can be pricey. Start with a cheap Kentucky rifle to get started, alot depends on what you want. Hope this helps.

Cheers
Kevin
 
A cheap flintlock may be nothing but a frustration.....getting a cheapy to spark and fire may be a tall order.....find someone local who can give you instruction on placing and knapping flints etc....its more of an "art" than most shooting sports.....my 2bits....finding a used "quality" rifle may be a better bet.....
 
my first flinter...

I got, from a friend, a cheap Euroarm Hawken style, half stock, .50 cal rifled for less than $200 and it is my most reliable one...seems the flint rake good sparks every time so I would not equate price and ignition reliability I think it is more the combination/harmony of the flint, the frizzen, the hammer spring etc...I have a few other flinters that are much more expensive and are not so well tuned.

As a starter I would suggest you can get something at a modest price and start exploring from there...there are good books well illustrated that give you the basic info for all aspects of black powder shooting...in case you want to go along that trail...
J
 
I started out in flinting with a new Traditions Deerhunter Flintlock rifle. It was just over $200 new with synthetic stock. I know it is not old style but wanted to buy a cheap one to see if I liked it. It sparks very well, and has a strong lock. Fires every shot so far and is very accurate and enjoyable to shoot. Also it fires better after using Goex 3F black powder for priming and for the actual load. Just my .02 from experience.
 
Anyone had experience with a Pedersoli flinter ?
There's one for sale here http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/pp-classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1193/cat/9
Flint rifles can be shipped into Canada without a problem being that they are "prescibed antiques"
Are they safe ? As long as you load and shoot them safely, just as safe as a modern rifle.
Be careful handling blackpowder though ;) it's the most addictive substance known to man, I don't want to be responsible for you going broke buying BP guns :D
Seriously though, if you do find one, there are lots of knowledgeable shooters here to help.

Cheers nessy
 
If you aren't a 'hands on' type of person don't get one or any muzzleloader. If you are a tinkerer then they are addicting.
 
I think there are two things to watch out for with cheap flintlocks; some spanish guns have the touch hole liner inside a bushing that is prone to fouling and the second thing is that most or all cheap guns use case hardened frizzens. Once the casing wears through, the frizzen stops sparking. A good lock such as a Siler or L&R will run about $120 US plus shipping etc and can often be installed in a gun with an inexpensive lock.

cheers mooncoon
 
My first "Rock-lock" was a Euroarm hawken...very frustrating, till I started using high quality english flints, thenit was OK, but not great. Sold it decades ago and had a custom gun built by a 'smith in Havre Montana. He used a Siler lock that he assembled and tuned himself. The fellow is an incredible flintlock shooter, I have seen him shoot a 50 yard offhand target with a 54 fullstock that scored 49-3X...the ten ring is 2" and X-ring is 1".
My full stock hawken flintlock will consistantly shoot out the ten ring at 50 yards and will keep five shots inside the nine ring at 100 off the crossed-sticks.The lock is so reliable it will fire upside down.
There are a lot of tricks to the shooting the rock-lock.
First...find a pin close to the diameter of the touch-hole, you do not want it tight not real loose ( I use a large paper clip)...prior to dropping your charge put the pin in the hole all the way through to the other side of the barrel, angle the pin to the back of the pan then close the frizzen, then load as normal.
I am getting ahead of myself here...before loading adjust your flint.
Use the pin as a gauge to adjust the flint in the jaws of the hammer. With the frizzen closed, and the hammer on half ####, adjust the flint in the jaws so the pin will pass evenly between the flint and frizzen, just touching the flint. Make sure the flint is sharp. The flint should contact the frizzen about two thirds of the way up the face of the frizzen. Make sure the frizzen spring is putting sufficient pressure on the firzzen as well...you should NOT be able to easily flip the frizzen open. If the flint does not contact the frizzen correctly, flip the flint over...it should be OK then. If you got as roller spring for thre frizzen get rid of it and put a good tempered leaf spring in.
When ready to fire, do not fill the pan completely full of FFFFG, put a teardrop shaped plile leading to the touch-hole...the narrow part next to the hole, the wide part at the outer limit of the pan...best to do this on the line.
Concentrate on your sights and trigger squeeze and you will be surprized.
Enjoy!!!!!
Cheers
Cheers
 
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You need a restriced PAL to own a flintlock handgun. No PAL required for flintlock long arms. If you are looking to buy a flintlock rifle get a Lyman one. They are going for around 300 dollars and the lock works perfect.
 
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