So, I have a Pedersoli Kentucky rifle in .45 and I`m having a devil of a time to get the main charge to ignite....I have found that the vent hole is less than 1/16" in dia. and my understanding is that it should be at least 1/16' - 5/64" in dia....Would drilling a slightly larger hole solve the problem?...
Flintlock ignition problems...
- Thread starter Airwolf
- Start date
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Clean the gun perfect, clear the flash hole, put 4f up to the hole just about, but make sure the passage is clear. English flints, and a tempered frizzen for good sparks...
I would pick the touch hole before each shot. I found my Pedersoli frontier carbine 45 cal flintlock fires flawlessly if I do that.
I am sorry to disagree with Levi on placement of the primer powder. I have found that putting it as far from the flash hole as possible works best. It give the powder a chance to really get burning before it hits the flash hole.
My flash powder dispense 3gr of 4f each time and I find that is sufficient.
Hope that helps. Now you have two different methods to try.
I am sorry to disagree with Levi on placement of the primer powder. I have found that putting it as far from the flash hole as possible works best. It give the powder a chance to really get burning before it hits the flash hole.
My flash powder dispense 3gr of 4f each time and I find that is sufficient.
Hope that helps. Now you have two different methods to try.
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
wow, well I guess I should have stated numbers in mm to flash hole
Heres a tip, after priming,frizzen down, give the rifle rx a tap or lean and tap to bias the powder in the pan away from the touch hole , most folks might already know this though,but anyway
Heres a tip, after priming,frizzen down, give the rifle rx a tap or lean and tap to bias the powder in the pan away from the touch hole , most folks might already know this though,but anyway
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
pressure flaking can also be done with a copper rod in a horn handle, or even a nail on a piece of heavy leather
- Location
- Algoma region
Is the pan charge going off??
Try the flint bevel up then down, watch where the sparks are going in the pan "without a charge there mind you" make sure the sparks are going into where the prime is.
If with a new flint your not getting ignition of the primer in the pan, you may need your frizzen to be rehardened or replaced, or a new "stronger" main spring.
If you are getting prime ignitions yet its just flashing in the pan, you should then look at the barrel, is there oil or grease buggering up your charge, is the touch hole clear.
Flintlocks can be quite relyable, you just have to do your part! Sometimes pedersoli flintlocks need some work to make them 100%.
A few weeks ago I was at the infantry school and had great success with what was onece a most hated and troublesome pedersoli bess,
I replaced the lock springs and shaved the breech a bit she now makes fire 100%
I squeezed off many rounds in less then favourable conditions, running, crawling, marching and in the rain with ZERO misfires or flashes in the pan!!
I came very close to selling this bess a couple months ago...I am very very very glad now that I didnt.
What Im saying is dont give up, if you stick it out and solve whatever the problem is im sure you will be captivated by the majestic flintlock!!!!
Try the flint bevel up then down, watch where the sparks are going in the pan "without a charge there mind you" make sure the sparks are going into where the prime is.
If with a new flint your not getting ignition of the primer in the pan, you may need your frizzen to be rehardened or replaced, or a new "stronger" main spring.
If you are getting prime ignitions yet its just flashing in the pan, you should then look at the barrel, is there oil or grease buggering up your charge, is the touch hole clear.
Flintlocks can be quite relyable, you just have to do your part! Sometimes pedersoli flintlocks need some work to make them 100%.
A few weeks ago I was at the infantry school and had great success with what was onece a most hated and troublesome pedersoli bess,
I replaced the lock springs and shaved the breech a bit she now makes fire 100%
I squeezed off many rounds in less then favourable conditions, running, crawling, marching and in the rain with ZERO misfires or flashes in the pan!!
I came very close to selling this bess a couple months ago...I am very very very glad now that I didnt.
What Im saying is dont give up, if you stick it out and solve whatever the problem is im sure you will be captivated by the majestic flintlock!!!!
with what they said. I keep my priming away from the flash hole.
A 1/6" drill bit works wonders, too.
I hope that is a mis-type.....
I'm sure you meant 1 /16"Thanks for the replies all....I use 4f in the pan and keep it from the vent....And it`s sparking well...But i just noticed that the vent hole is smaller than 1/16"....A pipe cleaner should fit, but it doesn`t..I guess I`ll take a 1/16' drill to it and see how that works....
I began shooting BP about five years ago with a Pedersoli flint Kentucky so went through all the trail and error! My experience repeats advice above:
i) use a brass pick in the hole each time;
ii) place a small amount of prime in the centre of the pan (the idea is to create a small explosion which flashes flame through to the main charge, rather than a 'wick' - that's what results in delayed ignition).
One other hint: when I started I was told to swab the barrel between rounds, which I did by spitting on a patch and passing it down the barrel. This was both to clean and to remove any chance of a lingering spark. The problem with doing this though is that you compress residue into the breech and potentially the touch hole, so if you are swabbing that may clog up your hole.
After moving on to build my own longrifles using superb Siler locks I realised how strangely small the Pedersoli Kentucky lock is - pistol sized (their 'Frontier' lock is more realistic). But it can be made to work well enough and I'm still fond of my 'Kentucky', so I hope you have lots of enjoyment shooting it once the teething troubles are sorted out!
The Muzzleloading Forum contains a huge amount of excellent advice on all aspects of shooting and making flint American longrifles, and was an essential resource for me.
i) use a brass pick in the hole each time;
ii) place a small amount of prime in the centre of the pan (the idea is to create a small explosion which flashes flame through to the main charge, rather than a 'wick' - that's what results in delayed ignition).
One other hint: when I started I was told to swab the barrel between rounds, which I did by spitting on a patch and passing it down the barrel. This was both to clean and to remove any chance of a lingering spark. The problem with doing this though is that you compress residue into the breech and potentially the touch hole, so if you are swabbing that may clog up your hole.
After moving on to build my own longrifles using superb Siler locks I realised how strangely small the Pedersoli Kentucky lock is - pistol sized (their 'Frontier' lock is more realistic). But it can be made to work well enough and I'm still fond of my 'Kentucky', so I hope you have lots of enjoyment shooting it once the teething troubles are sorted out!
The Muzzleloading Forum contains a huge amount of excellent advice on all aspects of shooting and making flint American longrifles, and was an essential resource for me.
Ok, I was at the range today and all the rounds touched off... Enlarging the touch hole to 1/16" worked...Now it`s just a matter of a small delay between the pan igniting and the main charge...I`m told that the breech plug needs to be larger so that the powder gets further down the barrel so that it`s closer to the vent hole....Took the barrel off, but the way Pedersoli made the barrel, I would have to drill from the muzzle...A 3/8' drill would do it, but I won`t try that myself.....All in all though, it still went bang....
Larry Pletcher makes high speed videos of flintlock ignitions, and has proclaimed that putting the prime up to vent is faster, he figures it akes longer for the flame to jump across the air space.
http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/ultra-high-speed-flintlock-movie.php
I drill my vents with a #51 drill bit , to make a faster ignition
http://www.csgnetwork.com/drillsizeconvert.html
Can you post a pic of your breechplug ?
Cheers nessy.
http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/ultra-high-speed-flintlock-movie.php
I drill my vents with a #51 drill bit , to make a faster ignition
http://www.csgnetwork.com/drillsizeconvert.html
Can you post a pic of your breechplug ?
Cheers nessy.
I hope that is a mis-type.....
Nope... I get great ignition with a 1/6" TH, but my velocity has droped right off...??
Just kidding. I made the correction to my OP. Thanks
I would get used to the gun for a while before mucking with it. Use 3F powder and tap the barrel a bit to get the powder out close to the opening of the vent hole. Also am presuming you are using a gun with a vent liner. I personally prefer a 5/16" liner because the internal recess can be larger and more certain of getting the powder closer to the ignition. My vent hole is larger than 1/16"; at a guess out around .1" or slightly less.
cheers mooncoon
- Location
- West coast of Vancouver Island
I have a ritual I follow when priming the pan of my Bess:
Priming powder, FF or FFF
Pick the vent, draw powder out of touch hole
Wipe the frizzen face
Wipe the flint's leading edge
Close frizzen
Tap the butt stock comb right side lightly to settle the charge
I don't use FFFF as a primer because the Brits used what ever power was issued to them. To wipe the frizzen and flint just lick, just damp not slobbery, your thumb and run it up the frizzen and gently across the flint edge.
Priming powder, FF or FFF
Pick the vent, draw powder out of touch hole
Wipe the frizzen face
Wipe the flint's leading edge
Close frizzen
Tap the butt stock comb right side lightly to settle the charge
I don't use FFFF as a primer because the Brits used what ever power was issued to them. To wipe the frizzen and flint just lick, just damp not slobbery
, your thumb and run it up the frizzen and gently across the flint edge.
Last edited:
juanvaldez
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Sudbury, Ontario
cone the inside of your vent liner toi get rid of the delayed ignition. Make sure the touch hole is centered to the pan
