Flintlock Loading Issues

Loyer

Loyer

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SW Ontario
I am a new flintlock shooter and have much to learn.

With a .54 cal rifled musket I can get 4 or 5 shoots easily but, after that, the bore seems to resist loading as easily.

I am shooting 60 gr of 3fg black powder and using 4fg for the pan. Also using .530 ball with pre-lubed patching .

Does this sound like a leading problem in the rifling or just too much powder residue ?

Any solution is appreciated.
 
You are having a powder residue build-up issue. Muzzle loaders should not lead with a patched ball.
Humidity, lube, powder, compression can all affect the fouling you get.

I would suggest changing from a greased patch to moose milk as that's worked better for me. I know others prefer the greases but I'm not sure how to get the best performance with that.

Running a damp patch for each shot will work. It's an extra messy step but might be necessary. If you do it after loading the bore condition can be kept consistent for each shot and prevent build-up. Be sure it's not too wet so it doesn't seep past the ball. This method prevents crud getting pushed into the breach wetting the powder or messing with ignition wich it can if you swab when unloaded.
 
I've been using a Ballistol/ water mix, about 1 water to 5 Ballistol on a cotton patch. Even shooting 1.5 F in my .62 needs only a few cleanings. My .50 and .54 rifles seldom need any cleaning during a shoot.
 
Loyer: Fouling build up. A normal occurrence. As already mentioned, a Ballistol/water mix works very well to clean bp fouling. Another method is to swab with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). Does an excellent job of removing the fouling. Plus, leaves no residue. It's also a good idea to give your flint, frizzen and and pan a swipe with a little alcohol on a patch between shots, too.
 
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There is almost no reason to *not* swab between shots - unless you are fighting the redcoats 200-some-odd-years-ago ;)

My process is to run an oiled patch then dry patch before shooting then:

- Load
- Stick a clean patch in my mouth
- Shoot
- Swab with the patch from my mouth (damp - not dripping)
- Try to spit the s****y tasting lint out of my mouth
- Run a dry patch down
- Check the spotting scope
- Repeat

The patches I use for oiling, wiping wet and dry are actually those blue shop towels cut into appropriate sized squares, depending on the jag I might double up on them

The Patches I use for shooting are cotton from Fabric Land cut into strips and then cut while loading with a patch knife.

I use (mostly) Thompson's bore butter (that stuff in the tube) - works great, I can buy it anywhere & I don't have to torque around with rolling my own.. ;)

After a few shots loading usually becomes easier (possibly because the barrel is expanding??), the wiping bit takes an extra 15 seconds ... so not a big deal.


Just make the wiping part of your loading process.


If you are getting a lot of fouling in the pan, you could be using too much priming powder, polish the pan, wipe it as suggested. Wiping the flint and frizzen periodically as well. Alcohol helps, but isn't necessary - so long as whatever you are wiping it with (a patch, your sleeve... etc) is not oily.
 
sean69 said:
There is almost no reason to *not* swab between shots - unless you are fighting the redcoats 200-some-odd-years-ago ;)

My process is to run an oiled patch then dry patch before shooting then:

- Load
- Stick a clean patch in my mouth
- Shoot
- Swab with the patch from my mouth (damp - not dripping)
- Try to spit the s****y tasting lint out of my mouth
- Run a dry patch down
- Check the spotting scope
- Repeat

The patches I use for oiling, wiping wet and dry are actually those blue shop towels cut into appropriate sized squares, depending on the jag I might double up on them

The Patches I use for shooting are cotton from Fabric Land cut into strips and then cut while loading with a patch knife.

I use (mostly) Thompson's bore butter (that stuff in the tube) - works great, I can buy it anywhere & I don't have to torque around with rolling my own.. ;)

After a few shots loading usually becomes easier (possibly because the barrel is expanding??), the wiping bit takes an extra 15 seconds ... so not a big deal.


Just make the wiping part of your loading process.
Click to expand...

I use the same loading drill and it works, the best one from my experience. The more efficient grease I use has always been mink grease even in winter but someone must remember that miraculous greases have there limits...
 
sean69 said:
There is almost no reason to *not* swab between shots - unless you are fighting the redcoats 200-some-odd-years-ago ;)

My process is to run an oiled patch then dry patch before shooting then:

- Load
- Stick a clean patch in my mouth
- Shoot
- Swab with the patch from my mouth (damp - not dripping)
- Try to spit the s****y tasting lint out of my mouth
- Run a dry patch down
- Check the spotting scope
- Repeat
Click to expand...

I never swab between shots. My last charge loads as easily as the first, there is very little fouling at the end of the day and my routine when on the line or woods walk could not be simpler.
Dump the powder in
Pop a precut patch into my mouth
Get the next ball
Ram the spit-moistened patch and ball home
Prime and shoot.
It really doesn't matter if I am firing a two-shot string or a thirty-shot string. Loading, fouling (what little there is) and cleanup remain the same.
I do use a lube when hunting but still avoid cleaning before reloading so as not to push crud down into the breech.
 
Anyone use 90% alcohol to clean out your bore? I've found it works quite well for fouling and leaves no residue.
Ever since I started using it, I find I don't need to swab between shots, no matter how many I shoot in an outing.
 
I never looked back after I bought a R.E.A.L. mold. I run these with bore butter and I can literally shoot all day. The BB keeps the fouling soft, and the projectiles take care of the rest. I love them.
 
One tip I heard:

If your powder load takes, say, 2 inches of barrel, when you run a wet swab, do not push it down into that two inches - if you swab 100%, you could push crud into the flash hole. You only really care about the part if the barrel the ball will be travelling. Save the full clean for home.
 
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The ballistol/water mix is known as "moose milk".
Now, I have a 1989 Pedersoli Charleville mod.1777, cal.69; 70gr of FFG; I have to clean between shots; I run dry patches for a few shots and if necessary, go with the moose-milk.
I have a brand new Pedersoli Cavalerie An IX , cal.69 also; 60gr of FFG; being recent production, the barrel must be much smoother than the 1777; I can go 4 to 5 shots before cleaning.
I'm not very fond in using wet patches between shots.
You have lots of info here :

https://www.youtube.com/c/BlackPowderTV/videos
I
 
Guitarzan8 said:
Anyone use 90% alcohol to clean out your bore? I've found it works quite well for fouling and leaves no residue.
Ever since I started using it, I find I don't need to swab between shots, no matter how many I shoot in an outing.
Click to expand...

This stuff has about the same formula. Works great.

h ttps://www.birchwoodcasey.com/products/muzzle-magic-no-77-cleaner-16-fl-oz-bottle.html
 
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Loyer said:
I am a new flintlock shooter and have much to learn.

With a .54 cal rifled musket I can get 4 or 5 shoots easily but, after that, the bore seems to resist loading as easily..
Click to expand...

It is VERY important to make sure the ball is rammed completely home before shooting. If there is any air space between the ball and the powder charge, you could ring the or bulge the barrel. The best way to know the ball is rammed fully home is if the ram rod bounces off the ball when slammed down and let go. If the ram rod doesn't bounce it is an indication the ball moved somewhat and soaked up the energy of the rod hitting home.
 
sulisa said:
One tip I heard:

If your powder load takes, say, 2 inches of barrel, when you run a wet swab, do not push it down into that two inches - if you swab 100%, you could push crud into the flash hole. You only really care about the part if the barrel the ball will be travelling. Save the full clean for home.
Click to expand...

I have always swabbed full depth between shots and never had a blocked flash hole in either a cap lock or a flintlock. The flash from a cap is pretty strong and for a fainter it is easy to run a touch hole pick in to ensure the hole is clean.
 
I Dont Care About You said:
It is VERY important to make sure the ball is rammed completely home before shooting. If there is any air space between the ball and the powder charge, you could ring the or bulge the barrel. The best way to know the ball is rammed fully home is if the ram rod bounces off the ball when slammed down and let go. If the ram rod doesn't bounce it is an indication the ball moved somewhat and soaked up the energy of the rod hitting home.
Click to expand...

I have a mark on the ramrod so that I can verify that the ball is seated on the powder charge. That was taught to me by an old school shooter.
 
sulisa said:
One tip I heard:

If your powder load takes, say, 2 inches of barrel, when you run a wet swab, do not push it down into that two inches - if you swab 100%, you could push crud into the flash hole. You only really care about the part if the barrel the ball will be travelling. Save the full clean for home.
Click to expand...

The crud in the breach can be a real challenge with some guns. For percussion the different patent breaches with the small chamber at the bottom can become completely blocked. A 30 shot trail walk or multi target event can be difficult to get through.

This is why I suggest wiping with a damp patch after loading. It's not the only way but it's quick and consistent while preventing the fouling from building up at the bottom of the barrel.

There are many recipes for black powder leaning solvent and moose milk if you do a little searching. Wiper fluid, alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, murphy oil soap, soluble cutting oil, etc. You are bound to find some that fit materials you already have. I'm too cheap ballistol
 
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