FN-98 3 pos safety question

A few pics of my Recknagel installed on my 9.3x57. Not sure if these are that helpful, it's kind of hard to show exactly how far it sticks out but I've never had an issue bumping it off yet. Haven't carried the rifle much to be fair.
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I have an unaltered factory 1952 Husqvarna with an FN 98 action. Traditional wing safety. If I am carrying the rifle loaded with the safety engaged in the "UP" position, brushing against a bush or rubbing against my day pack the wrong way will pop it off the safe position.

I had a Timney trigger put in years ago, but I don't use the rifle much my more as it is heavier than my others so I'm not dicking with it. I had it out again last summer for a shoot with different ammo than previous loads though and it's still one of my most accurate rifles so it might get an outing next year.
 
was a thing some time ago to get a "sniper" safety that was pretty much a drop in replacement for that "over the top" military 3 position lever. There are enough pictures floating on Internet of German WWII snipers firing their rifles.
Interesting. I'd not seen those before.

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I have a Gentry 3 position safety on a couple FN’98s and they have worked well for years. The safety lever does not stick out as far as the pics you show at the beginning of this thread. The safeties lock the bolt when fully rearward which is a must for me and the detents are positive but smooth. I always meant to try one of the two position ones as I rarely use the middle position.

I would believe that the detents on the lever could be adjusted if you want it to be more rearward but for the price of these, you expect them to be ready with the only fitting being for trigger engagement.
 
I have not done so, but based on issues raised in this thread - I think I will dismantle and inspect this one - perhaps the rod that goes forward to lock the bolt shut is not going forward enough - causing the safety lever to stick out to the right too much?? Or, is possible, for some reason, that the axis of rotation of the safety lever is in wrong place - causing that safety lever arm to run into the shroud before it should?

Thinking about it, I think my attraction to the three position safety, was the ease of bolt disassembly when the lever was in the middle position - since I was a boy - I was taught that the safety is between your ears - not on the rifle. In those days, my hands too small or too weak to operate the left side safety on a Lee Enfield No. 4, so it was carried loaded, with a cartridge mostly in the chamber, but the rim under the extractor - with the bolt handle up. Of the choices available to me - pushing the bolt forward and down was about as quick and "natural" as rolling the rifle over to manipulate that left-side safety lever. Apparently I still do that - with the Mausers, I find is very common to have the safety lever fully forward, (or to the left on the military type) and the bolt handle "up". And, contrarily, for about 15 years I did my deer hunting with a Ruger No. 1 - a slide style "shotgun" safety behind the tang. I suspect the role of the safety on the rifle will vary with a user's understanding about what can go wrong.
 
The 1st time I used this rifle was on a moose hunt on NFLD and carried the rifle unloaded given the style of hunt, so really was not aware of the safety and it's potential to get moved.
 

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X2, please.

It’s hard to see without removing the scope but this should give you an idea. The arm is actually fairly short compared to the one you posted.

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I did some google fu, very little on Kanadian sources for the M70 mauser safety. Contacted Western metal, basically told its become unimportable. It's also one thing to throw a $300 safety on a custom build M98. It's another thing to justify that cost on a Chevrolet grade basic 60's vintage rifle.
 
I did some google fu, very little on Kanadian sources for the M70 mauser safety. Contacted Western metal, basically told its become unimportable. It's also one thing to throw a $300 safety on a custom build M98. It's another thing to justify that cost on a Chevrolet grade basic 60's vintage rifle.

That doesn’t sound right - i ordered mine direct from NECG in 2019, just checked and their site still allows you to choose canada for shipping and doesn’t mention any restrictions. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure you can just order one.
 
This looks considerably better than the one below...

The one the supercub posted looks like it is not fully engaging (gap between the lever and shroud - those surfaces should touch when fully engaged). I’m not a smith - but it looks like the relief in the back of the bolt body for the locking pin wasn’t cut deep enough. That would be my first check as a rank amateur anyway. Pull off the shroud, check projection of the locking pin with a machinist rule or vernier - compare to the depth of the relief cut in the bolt body (should be equal to or deeper than the locking pin protrusion).
 
A friend recently got a customized fn. He says the bolt is continually opening in the field. Has the factory fn two position safety. I think someone went overboard slicking up the action. I suggested he get the three position safety with bolt shroud. Or failing that I offered to buy it as it is a real gem.
 
There are other options for better "engineered, modern" safeties for the 98 action, IMHO.

Note, most of those European safties work basically "noiseless". It's an important part for wild boar night hunters.

https://www.voere-shop.com/shop/K98-Sicherungen-c37611014
I just had one of those voere decocking safeties put on my custom Mauser build (not yet complete). I kind of wish I knew you could buy the tang conversions, those are real slick. Oh well, there's always the next one


Does anyone know if the NECG safeties are made by recknagel?
 
I would have a conversation with the builder. There is a chance that you can’t make a switch to another safety at this point in the game.
 
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