For better accuracy in M1A, turn off the gas?

Jmiverson said:
IMO, especially after what everyone has stated, you are not accomplishing much by turning your gas off. That bullet is long gone before the lil bit of gas is cycled and parts start moving. Accuracy really is negligible, so just work up a load properly. Might have to step down in bullet weight to achieve the velocity you need. 45grs of 4895 is 1gr above Barnes data...
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Yes it is. However the folks at Barnes told me that this bullet design gives U lower pressure at all loads and U can go at least 2 grains over max indicated with all grain weights with the exception of the solids. I have done this with all of my calibers from 30/06 - 300 Weatherby - Weatherby 338/378 - 300 WSM -308 Norma Mag, 22/'250 with no sign of pressure. I have also found generally with 2 grains over max indicated load with all calibers and powder and bullets with any listed load,
caliber is more accurate. Your mileage may vary. Work up slow.
 
Pr589 said:
Hey Eagle - I don't know if you have tried this but my recent experience says that bedding and barrel tension is an important factor in getting these rifles to shoot without the flyers and stringing (once they are warmed-up). I have had to adjust my barrel tension to get rid of flyers and I notice that Pop bedded his, and used the coat hanger method to achieve the correct tension. Just a thought...

Also while I'm sure you have done your load development, 165 grains of 4895 under a 165 grain pill would be really hot for my rifle which likes it more at the 40-ish grains for accuracy. Makes me curious what MV I'm getting with my loads. Will have to ask my buddy Rodauto to set up his chrony next time at the range.
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Have Chrony, will travel!! Remind me to bring a new battery though:rolleyes: Haven't used it in years!
Rodney
 
I regularly shoot both with gas on and off. I have not seen a difference, personally. What matters is how tight the components are that are attached to the barrel and how much draw pressure that you have at the front band/stock ferrule. You also need to keep that specific mating surface lubed. If there's a misalignment between your operating rod and your gas cylinder/piston, then that will add variables to your rifle's performance from shot to shot. If the vertical surfaces of the front band and stock ferrule are touching, that will rob you off accuracy as well.

If your stock fit is loose, and you can shift the action around in the stock, then you will experience inconsistencies as well. I turn the gas off regularly to extend the life of my brass and also to keep my brass out of the mud here in the soggy Pacific Northwest. With proper attention, you can get up to 20 firings out of a case that was not shot out of an autoloader. If I run it with the gas on, I don't go past five reloadings. This is the reason I prefer a welded gas cylinder to a screw-N-glue gas cylinder.

I always turn on the gas when developing a new load, just to ensure that the action cycles properly. I did this with some light bullets and light loads and the cases kind of rolled out of the rifle, but it never jammed or malfunctioned.

Tony.
 
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I wouldn't bother with turning the gas off - IMO no appreciable difference and kinda defeats the object of the exercise.

BTW - Welcome TonyBen; read your posts on M14form and appreciate your videos.
 
orthoboy said:
So pardon my noob question but I have a new SA m1a super match. How or why do I need to adjust the gas?
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U do not adjust the gas. You buy a Sadlak grooved gas piston and replace the stock piston which puts less gas pressure on the oprod and does not put as much stress on the bolt and receiver when you fire your weapon with higher powder chargers or heaver grain weight bullets. With a groved piston U should be ok with a gr weight up to 168 grain bullet with a MV of 2600FPS or so. Buy the way that super match will blow up if U shoot it, send it to me immediately.
 
eaglesnester said:
U do not adjust the gas. You buy a Sadlak grooved gas piston and replace the stock piston which puts less gas pressure on the oprod and does not put as much stress on the bolt and receiver when you fire your weapon with higher powder chargers or heaver grain weight bullets. With a groved piston U should be ok with a gr weight up to 168 grain bullet with a MV of 2600FPS or so. Buy the way that super match will blow up if U shoot it, send it to me immediately.
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Okay, I don't want to risk my pretty face. PM me your address. I'll include a free "boop" on the nose. :)
 
orthoboy said:
So pardon my noob question but I have a new SA m1a super match. How or why do I need to adjust the gas?
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If you're new to the M14, I'll assume you're not shooting super long distance. As far as factory ammo goes, any match 168 and 175 grain ammunition will function fine and safely in your rifle without any modification at all. The factory Federal 168 grain stuff will get you out easily to 600 yards or 550 meters. 175 grain stuff will get you out past 950 meters. Once you start handloading and approach nuclear pressure levels, then you need to modify the gas system to avoid stressing the operating system (operating rod, gas piston, operating rod track on the receiver, Bolt roller). Once you start pushing 168 grain and 175 grain bullets past 2700FPS, then you're pushing it kind of hard. I try to stick to 2600 to 2650 for 168's.

Once you start pushing 180's or 185's and above, you need to modify the gas system with either a vented gas piston, or an adjustable gas plug. You also want to regulate the gas system if you start using a sound suppressor as they generate higher back pressure.

Another reason to regulate the gas system is to slow down your "dwell time". Match grade shooters like to slow down the action as it can help bring groups down when shooting semi-auto by reducing the speed and impacts of the operating system. This helps all the parts hanging off the barrel return consistently to the same spot from shot to shot, thereby making things more consistent which can shrink groups down.

Clear as mud?

Tony.
 
Welcome Tony. I share your informative YT videos on my FB page and forums I frequent. Keep doing what you're doing.

TonyBen said:
You also want to regulate the gas system if you start using a sound suppressor as they generate higher back pressure.
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I started shooting suppressed M14s in 2006, and I have sent thousands of suppressed .308/7.62 NATO rounds down range.
The only method of regulating the gas system that I have used is installing the higher volume SOCOM gas plug from Smith Enterprise.
It has been my experience that no other change to the gas system is needed when using a quality sound suppressor.
 
Turning off the gas? That's something we do to our friends' M14 rifles while racked up and they momentarily left to grab some kit from their parked car. :evil:

That's my ONLY reason in my past with gas shut off options on the M14 gas cylinder. :D

Of course all of you know why I love turning off their gas. :nest:

So here I was departing the 100 Mile House BC Interior M14 clinic in the evening to join my brother at his house in White Rock. I had a good night's sleep and in the AM, I drove to YVR to meet my incoming wife before meeting up with my son at Whistler. The next day while at the Pemberton Gun Club with Bongobob, I discovered MY GAS :eek: was turned off! :cool:

I luv you guyz! :nest:

Cheers and keep helping them noooobs here,
Barney
 
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