? for Sig owners. IS the Stainless frame worth the cost & weight...

Avenida

Avenida

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I own a p226R, basic stuff, that is the only sig I like and if I have to buy another one would be the same with the Stainless frame, which I think it is called Black Stainless (the keep changing and adding new models all the time, drives me crazy).

Looking to get some advice on why the stainless is better or worse or different from the alloy frame. I am not too worry about the lifespan of hte gun since I think it is been proven that they can survive over 30/40 K rounds with no problem and by that time I might have spent $9K in ammo so... I guess I could afford a new one.

What I am asking here is:

what do you use a stainless frame for, is it IDPA? how do you feel it moves between stations, is it too heavy over time?

Does the SS makes for less maintanance allowing the frame to run drier if the glun is neglected with no obvious erosion of the finish. I know I won't run my alloy frame dry, that is for sure.

How is the finish holding up agains the Alloy frame, I know the finish on my allow frame is 'fragile' to call it somehow, like in any alloy thing. I own a beretta shotgun and the action is alloy, the finish would come off rather easy.

How about grips, I noticed that in SIG's site the grips on the SS Black, are not E2 grips (they work better for me than the fatter grips, although both work). IS it possible to install E2 grips on the stainless frame?

Does Sig sell just the frame? I would like to have a Stainless frame for practice and use the alloy for competitions.

and last...
How many were/are the Smurfs?
 
I don't have a stainless Sig. Often I hear people saying the weight (for recoil absorption/muzzle rise) is beneficial, and the look is most important if it's what you want.

The Nitron® finish hasn't worn, flaked, or scratched on my alloy pistols, except a bit right in the rails where the friction is. I do keep that part greased or oiled.

I've never seen Sig selling the frame alone, but you could probably special-order it with a million months' wait (and pay as much as a full gun).

Avenida said:
and last...
How many were/are the Smurfs?
Click to expand...

There are supposed to be 100 Smurfs in the village, but Gargamel created Smurfette with magic. Then every blue moon, a stork is supposed to drop off a new smurf (reproduction, y'know) and that's how we got Baby Smurf. Clockwork isn't technically a Smurf but a robot, but you can count him if you wish. And last we got dumped with a bunch of annoying kid Smurf characters to try to liven up the show. That's if we're talking TV and not comics.

Where do I pick up my Smurf pistol grips?
 
Recoil reduction is definitely noticeable between the two if you have shot them enough.
I personally like the added weight and it seems to balance the pistol nicely, personal defence wise it will also work as a club.
I have never seen frames sold individually but I highly doubt even in competition you would ever wear one down enough to justify not just having a complete second gun, as stated the cost would be very prohibitive on ordering one from sig.
As for the e2 grips, they will work on any frame within that model. You would need the whole e2 kit as there is a smaller replacement hammer spring housing underneath the E2 grips. Standard grips can be placed over an e2 housing no problem though.
 
I have only ever shot the Stainless but comparing it to my Glock (I know....it's not an alloy frame - but I don't have another pistol in alloy only steel) there is a huge difference with regards to recoil reduction and muzzle control on follow up shots.
 
I have a 226 ST and a 220 ST and both are great pistols. My 226 is in 9mm and is very easy to shoot and there is a very noticeable reduction in recoil with both pistols. They are heavier for sure but quite manageable. Both mine have the natural stainless finish so I don't know how the Nitron will hold up although I have been tempted to pick up another one in Nitron to see. Both my pistols have lots of rounds though them and show no signs of wear.
I still use grease on the rails and I have heard that running a stainless slide on a stainless frame can cause them to friction weld but I don't know if that is accurate or not. I'm not willing to take the chance though and I use grease on the slide rails of all my Sig's. There was a thread here about a year ago started by a guy who bought a stainless Elite and was having problems with it. It turned out that he was not using any lube on the rails at all and his problems went away as soon as he properly lubed the pistol.
The stainless finish is very easy to clean and any dirt or powder residue is very easy to see so that's another bonus. I'm sure the E2 grips would fit the frame but I prefer the Hogue G-10 grips and they work well for me,plus the black grips on the all stainless models look pretty good too.
 
I actually just picked up the x5, not sure if it is because of the stainless on stainless or just the production of them but they are recommend to be greased instead of lube/oil. It it certainly a tighter fit than my platinum elite was.
 
thanks for the info guys, I am tempted to have a 226 black stainless but can't see anything online, do you guys know who has them?
 
My P226 ST is a .40 and it recoils less than a Sig in 9mm. Early stainless guns had problems with galling, I think they fixed that now. Stainless frame Sigs are technically less upkeep (don't have to keep as religious of a lube on the rails), but I am skeptical of the reliability of the black stainless model. I've read about some that have an overly tight frame to slide fit and the new long extractor.
You should see how mother ####ing tight my P226 ST is! After 700-800 rounds, it's tighter than my unfired MK25. The recoil spring is next to painful to remove.

If you want a steel-frame Sig, get an older (e.g 2006ish) ST model, or an SL model ($$$$!!) or an X-Five, in my opinion only.
 
I hear ya, thanks for the info.
I am not a big fan of the x5 and the sl is probably prohib. The only Sigs I like is the 226 and 229 (with the original barrel and not the stupid canadian law abiding one).

I went to the range today and noticed how tired I got while holding it practicing my bump drill (alloy p226), then, I wondered why I would want a ST model when it is actually proven that this gun was designed to be used with an alloy frame due to it's inherent weight.
I will be shooting IDPA mostly, but after todays practice I am a bit skeptical about how functional the ST could be for that. The alloy frame is way too heavy already.





mr00jimbo said:
My P226 ST is a .40 and it recoils less than a Sig in 9mm. Early stainless guns had problems with galling, I think they fixed that now. Stainless frame Sigs are technically less upkeep (don't have to keep as religious of a lube on the rails), but I am skeptical of the reliability of the black stainless model. I've read about some that have an overly tight frame to slide fit and the new long extractor.
You should see how mother ####ing tight my P226 ST is! After 700-800 rounds, it's tighter than my unfired MK25. The recoil spring is next to painful to remove.

If you want a steel-frame Sig, get an older (e.g 2006ish) ST model, or an SL model ($$$$!!) or an X-Five, in my opinion only.
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