what are you guys useing to clean up those russian capture stocks? all the ones I seee are VERY dark how can they be cleaned without wrecking the stock? IE NO sanding or other methoeds that would remove original markings
Former German K-98 Rifles
- Thread starter JP
- Start date
Well, bear in mind not all K98k stocks were ever light. In fact most laminate stocks were stained dark when issued, until the latter half of the war when that step was eliminated from production.
The RC's are coated in the same Shellac you see on mosins. Generous coats of Isopropyl alcohol with a brush will melt it. You have to be persistent and wipe the shellac off while it's still wet and melted.
Once you get the shellac off, the stock will probably be oily and grimy underneath as the Russians didn't do much to the stocks before slapping the shellac to them. Now it's time for traditional methods like acetone-based strippers and TSP soap - but ONLY if the stock was unstained and unfinished late-war production.
If it's early an stained and oil finished stock, stick to a mild soap on a damp cloth. Another collector I know gave me a good method you might want to try. I know it sounds "out there" but has worked for me cleaning a couple of grimy old Gew88 stocks before.
Buy a tub of vaseline. Coat the stock with the stuff. Let sit 2 or three days and wipe off with paper towel. Then buff more firmly with a cotton cloth. The vaseline leeches alot of grime and oil out of the wood while preserving the wood finish beneath the crud. Of course you would have to dissolve the shellac off the stock first.
Finally, there are mixed feelings out there about removing the shellac. Some folks consider it part of the rifle's history and suggest you not remove it at all.
It's a personal decision IMHO.
The RC's are coated in the same Shellac you see on mosins. Generous coats of Isopropyl alcohol with a brush will melt it. You have to be persistent and wipe the shellac off while it's still wet and melted.
Once you get the shellac off, the stock will probably be oily and grimy underneath as the Russians didn't do much to the stocks before slapping the shellac to them. Now it's time for traditional methods like acetone-based strippers and TSP soap - but ONLY if the stock was unstained and unfinished late-war production.
If it's early an stained and oil finished stock, stick to a mild soap on a damp cloth. Another collector I know gave me a good method you might want to try. I know it sounds "out there" but has worked for me cleaning a couple of grimy old Gew88 stocks before.
Buy a tub of vaseline. Coat the stock with the stuff. Let sit 2 or three days and wipe off with paper towel. Then buff more firmly with a cotton cloth. The vaseline leeches alot of grime and oil out of the wood while preserving the wood finish beneath the crud. Of course you would have to dissolve the shellac off the stock first.
Finally, there are mixed feelings out there about removing the shellac. Some folks consider it part of the rifle's history and suggest you not remove it at all.
It's a personal decision IMHO.
JP said:
LOL. I don't think anyone expects to buy a shootable non-sportered K98k for $50.
$700 is on the high side though for a non-original vet bringback in Canada. Unreasonable? I don't know. If they sell, then the price is reasonable to the buyer
That being said, I would feel alot more agreeable to purchasing one if the price were, say, $450-500. But I'm a cheap b@stard who buys Mosins left and right, so what do I count for???
- Location
- Downtown Vancouver, BC
Claven, my RC is a 1939 piece. I think I'm going to try to keep the original finish on there. Should I use mineral spirits or Isopropyl alcohol to get the shellac off? Does mineral spirits eat the finish underneath the shellac also?
And then I'm going to buy some vaseline and coat the whole gun in it, and leave it for 3 days. Try to get that sucker revitalized a bit.
And then I'm going to buy some vaseline and coat the whole gun in it, and leave it for 3 days. Try to get that sucker revitalized a bit.
Don't use mineral spirits on shellac. Use Isopropyl Alcohol or Methyl Hydrate (same thing basically).
Essentially this is ethyl alcohol (the stuff you drink) mixed with 2-5% methanol (which is poisonous) so that drunks don't drink it
Shellac is made from flake dissolved with ethyl alcohol, so the alcohol will dissolve the shellac on the rifle and make it run. you then wipe it off while still wet. This will take some time and probably a few applications. Wear gloves.
Essentially this is ethyl alcohol (the stuff you drink) mixed with 2-5% methanol (which is poisonous) so that drunks don't drink it
Shellac is made from flake dissolved with ethyl alcohol, so the alcohol will dissolve the shellac on the rifle and make it run. you then wipe it off while still wet. This will take some time and probably a few applications. Wear gloves.
- Location
- Downtown Vancouver, BC
Awesome. Can I pick that junk up at Crappy tire? How much should I be paying for it, so I know not to get ripped off?
"poly-strippa" at the hardware store is top notch for removing shellac. Wipe on with a brush, wipe off with a rag. Easy. Afterwards, I washed the stock in a tub of dish soap and warm water with a plastic scrubbie(gently!), and then put on some b.l.o. or whatever was appropriate originally, depending on the rifle.
Try Circa antique finish remover & 0000 steel wool
Easy on the hands, will not remove any of the original stain (if there even was any), will not remove any waffenamts (careful application on these)
If your stock is laminated with the red glue, use a cotton patch(s) with a 5% iodine solution and when dry rub the stock down with pure beeswax.
Easy on the hands, will not remove any of the original stain (if there even was any), will not remove any waffenamts (careful application on these)
If your stock is laminated with the red glue, use a cotton patch(s) with a 5% iodine solution and when dry rub the stock down with pure beeswax.
- Location
- Downtown Vancouver, BC
Definitely going to go with the Isopropyl this weekend. And I also don't want the lower finish removed, because it's less work for me! Just kidding. It's always about the originality of the materials being used. I'll make sure to take some before and after photos to show you guys. It'll also be a chance to show you the problems I have with the "reblueing" job the ruskies did. It's pretty patchy. You'll see!
I long for the days when Bill and Ernie at Klondike Arms in Edmonton had a barrel full of K98 Norwegian mausers c/w bayonet for $100.00 each. All were in NRA excellent or better.
And the really nasty part is I could have afforded to buy more than one at that time.
And these Norwegian mausers are very accurate with both jacketed and cast bullets. Too bad there isn't any surplus 30/06 imported into Canada that doesn't get bounced back to the shipper by customs.
And the really nasty part is I could have afforded to buy more than one at that time.
And these Norwegian mausers are very accurate with both jacketed and cast bullets. Too bad there isn't any surplus 30/06 imported into Canada that doesn't get bounced back to the shipper by customs.
Claven2 said:150gr FMJ's are made in bulk by Hornady - pretty cheap. Brass is cheap too. Lots or surplus Lake City brass arond too
Could you give a source for surplus brass please?
Not to mention who sells the 150 grain fmj in bulk for a reasonable price?
It certainly isn't reasonable at our local gunshop.
