forming .577 snider

Snider shooter said:
Buddy of mine was using plastic 24 ga. Shooting buy not grouping well. I helped him out and big improvement.
Well your die is already screwed so not much to lose in trying to fix it. I’d cut it back behind the break and chamfer the inside edge. Most of the sizing is about 1/2” from the rim and forward. So may work for you.
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Best I could do at the moment is an angle grinder. Just did a file test and their glass hard might be part of the reason these dies had issues.
 
antiqueguy said:
Best I could do at the moment is an angle grinder. Just did a file test and their glass hard might be part of the reason these dies had issues.
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Angle grinder with a cut of wheel then switch back to a grinding wheel. If you had a square you could move it around the die and keep hitting the high spots. Could get you close. A ball stone in a drill would give a bevel on the inside. The steel in the die should only have the top layer hardened.
Stuff like this is why I bought a lathe. Expensive toy but when you need it it’s worth the money.
 
Snider shooter said:
Angle grinder with a cut of wheel then switch back to a grinding wheel. If you had a square you could move it around the die and keep hitting the high spots. Could get you close. A ball stone in a drill would give a bevel on the inside. The steel in the die should only have the top layer hardened.
Stuff like this is why I bought a lathe. Expensive toy but when you need it it’s worth the money.
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Probably the next big thing I’m buying it’s only gonna be the cheapie Chinese ones but better then trying to spin stuff in the old beaver wood lathe.

I filed on the part the broke out and even a chainsaw file won’t cut it.
 
antiqueguy said:
Not my first rodeo just don’t have the lee dies or a press that can take them anymore my gun won’t chamber a plastic case with a .600 round ball unfortunately it will barely fit one with a .570.
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If you watch the videos, he demonstrates that you do not actually need a press / dies to reload .577 Snider.

Although I have various .577 die sets, I do most of my Snider reloading without.

You can purchase .577 brass, or converted 24 gauge brass hulls. Load them with BP and filler, you can find various loads online or via experimentation, then manually seat a lead round ball (.600), and blast away.

Now that the case is fireformed to your chamber, you can usually manually seat the various assortment of .577 bullet diameters by hand (anything from .570-.600), and experiment until you find something that works for your particular gun.
 
pcvando said:
If you watch the videos, he demonstrates that you do not actually need a press / dies to reload .577 Snider.

Although I have various .577 die sets, I do most of my Snider reloading without.

You can purchase .577 brass, or converted 24 gauge brass hulls. Load them with BP and filler, you can find various loads online or via experimentation, then manually seat a lead round ball (.600), and blast away.

Now that the case is fireformed to your chamber, you can usually manually seat the various assortment of .577 bullet diameters by hand (anything from .570-.600), and experiment until you find something that works for your particular gun.
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I was trying to form cases. Not trying to buy 20 cases for $160 bad enough that the 24ga brass was $90 to my door.
 
antiqueguy said:
I was trying to form cases. Not trying to buy 20 cases for $160 bad enough that the 24ga brass was $90 to my door.
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Ah, understood.

Unfortunately pricing has gone up on a lot of brass, even 24 gauge brass hulls.

I know this isn't very helpful, but "buy once, cry once" and the brass should last a long time. I am into 20+ reloads on some cases. It helps when you dedicate them to specific guns as you already know.
 
pcvando said:
Ah, understood.

Unfortunately pricing has gone up on a lot of brass, even 24 gauge brass hulls.

I know this isn't very helpful, but "buy once, cry once" and the brass should last a long time. I am into 20+ reloads on some cases. It helps when you dedicate them to specific guns as you already know.
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I only have one snider and I’m down to one martini Henry. I’m going to try another method for the martini Henry cases. I was also going to try it with the snider but fire forming would be tricky.
 
Beater said:
5744 is an excellent BP powder replacement for the snider ive found. Also used blackhorn if you can find it
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These have a huge case capacity along with most of them being conversion of p1853 enfields with little to no locking mechanism for the breech block. I think I will stick to black powder and it’s substitutes.
 
tiriaq said:
Does the cardboard tube stay in the case, or is it expelled with the bullet?
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When I first tried it I was worried about it coming out and the next shot hitting it. I have probably fired over 400 rnds and never had one come out. I do check my cases everytime just to make sure the card board is still inside. One time use as they do get messed up. Lots of cereal and pastry boxes around so unlimited supply.
 
Beater said:
i cant do that where i shoot for fear of starting a fire. whatever i use for filler must be non flamable.
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It won't get expelled.
Done it with 577 and 450 / 577.
Logically it is pressed up against the sides of the case at whatever pressure the cartridge fires at.
Which I don't know off hand, but I'll hazard it is consequential.
 
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