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If no one close to you on here does . Any small decent weld shop could do it. The issue is getting ALL the solder off the parts . It`s like people who braze , it`s a pain in the azz to remove brazing material to tig or mig.
 
Don`t tell them it`s a firearm part . Tell them it`s and old whatever antique your restoring.Tell them the part is obsolte and you can`t find another one . It would be a 5 minute fix and prolly cash deal too. I know a few shops near me are happy to help guys playing around with stuff . You will probably have to leave it with them till they have time for gov jobs .
 
Might be a crap shoot to weld. Im guessing its probably a hard part. If its a hars part, it will get glass hard when it gets welded, then it would break after any kind of use.

You are better off getting a new piece made. Or buying the part.

Just my .02.
 
Just a minor point, but if you actually gave up the info on what it was, and what it was off of, it might get you a lot further ahead!

As for welding it, if you have enough money, like as not, it can be done! Problem is that most guys try to save a buck, and end up spending twice as much...

Besides the removal of ALL the solder, you need to account for heat treating the whole part as if it was a new made one, if you wish to avoid brittleness and breakage from the Heat Affected Zone on the part turning it into essentially a glass cannon barrel.
 
If the issue with a new part is misaligned grove in the barrel, order a couple new parts; get a small file and create the clearance required. It will be difficult for your welder to get the alignment right without the barrel and receiver. As others have stated, the sliver solder is a big issue, as is the hardness of the part. If it were my own, I might try welding it myself, but based on experience, my expectations would be very low. If the parts are inexpensive, buy a bag full... or sell the rifle with a disclaimer.
 
OkayShooter said:
Not wanting to sound un thankful for the advice. But I just want to know who fine tigs. And prefer if people just answered that question. The person that tigs can decide if it do able or not.

Sorry if that comes off as rude. But nobody that replied pointed me towards a person.
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Well, my point, really, was that by putting it out there WHAT it exactly is, you are more like to get someone to reply that they actually have one in their junk bin.

Like as not, since the part is contaminated (the solder already used), and a gun part (which a lot of places won't touch, on paranoid principle), you are likely screwed.

But the best advice I can offer, knowing what I do of TIG, (I have a TIG welding set-up) is that the guys you want, likely will have a shingle hung out as welders, and I would start by checking out your local folks. I kinda doubt there is much of a tool and Die Industry around Nova Scotia (could be wrong), but the guys that do repair welding on injection molds and the like, would be the guys I would look for, as they are the ones like to have weld machines that can dial down low enough to not turn your part into a puddle.
Check around the Airports, to see if there is a welding shop that is doing Special Metals, and repairs on turbine blades.

The unfortunate part of that, is that the machines that will actually dial down to very low amperage reliably, are typically the higher tier rigs, usually priced well outside the realm of hobby welders and occasional users.

In the end, I figure the actual answer to your problem, is to make a part that fits correctly, or buy a new part and fit it correctly from the outset.
 
trevj said:
Well, my point, really, was that by putting it out there WHAT it exactly is, you are more like to get someone to reply that they actually have one in their junk bin.

Like as not, since the part is contaminated (the solder already used), and a gun part (which a lot of places won't touch, on paranoid principle), you are likely screwed.

But the best advice I can offer, knowing what I do of TIG, (I have a TIG welding set-up) is that the guys you want, likely will have a shingle hung out as welders, and I would start by checking out your local folks. I kinda doubt there is much of a tool and Die Industry around Nova Scotia (could be wrong), but the guys that do repair welding on injection molds and the like, would be the guys I would look for, as they are the ones like to have weld machines that can dial down low enough to not turn your part into a puddle.
Check around the Airports, to see if there is a welding shop that is doing Special Metals, and repairs on turbine blades.

The unfortunate part of that, is that the machines that will actually dial down to very low amperage reliably, are typically the higher tier rigs, usually priced well outside the realm of hobby welders and occasional users.

In the end, I figure the actual answer to your problem, is to make a part that fits correctly, or buy a new part and fit it correctly from the outset.
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First sentance says what it is. Its files easy, it's not harden, there no shock or load on it.

I looked for months for parts and there was zero replies to my ad. Could only find a blank source in NV and the tab is angled from the orginal. But problem is the extractor cut was done incorrectly and doesn't line up. So buying new ones will have the same outcome. I wish people just point me to a tig welder and I can talk with them if it is doable.

That is why I'm asking on a gun forum. So I don't get people paranoid it a gun part. I live in Rural NS, so there isnt any welders out here.

I want to try welding, it is my money to waste.
 
OkayShooter said:
First sentance says what it is. Its files easy, it's not harden, there no shock or load on it.

I looked for months for parts and there was zero replies to my ad. Could only find a blank source in NV and the tab is angled from the orginal. But problem is the extractor cut was done incorrectly and doesn't line up. So buying new ones will have the same outcome. I wish people just point me to a tig welder and I can talk with them if it is doable.

That is why I'm asking on a gun forum. So I don't get people paranoid it a gun part. I live in Rural NS, so there isnt any welders out here.

I want to try welding, it is my money to waste.
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Well, as I read it, you want someone else to try welding it. How's that working out?

So, go read the second line in my post above, again. With the solder already on it, the odds are it'll be a puddle, before it becomes a decent weld.

Make a part that fits. As a remote second option, get some real silver solder, not the low temperature crap, clean as much of the low temp solder off, and do a proper job of it with that.
 
I know a couple of guys who can do it I’m not sure where in NS you are located but if you are near the NB boarder and absolutely want to have it welded I can get it done for you. PM me what you need done but before we get too excited that’s at least $30 weld these days if they have to charge shop rate. If clean up can be done on your end they might even do it for a bottle of craft brew.
 
trevj said:
Well, as I read it, you want someone else to try welding it. How's that working out?

So, go read the second line in my post above, again. With the solder already on it, the odds are it'll be a puddle, before it becomes a decent weld.

Make a part that fits. As a remote second option, get some real silver solder, not the low temperature crap, clean as much of the low temp solder off, and do a proper job of it with that.
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Its pretty simple I just want names, Its a simple question to answer, not sure why people have to put opinions, I can talk to the welder if its do able. Unless you want to do it? Since you have an opinion on it that you want me to change.

OMG removing solder is sooo hard, couple passes with a file. Most welders are going to grind a bevel in it for the welds to take. Which would take it off.

Or build welds up vs welding the 2 parts together. 2 ways to do it
 
IMHO, u are barking up the wrong tree. grab a hack saw and a file and a grade 5 bolt and in an hrs time u make one.
u will not take any heat treating out of the bolt with a hack saw and file. FWIW, if u want 4130 cromemoly steel on the cheap,
all automotive shafts and gears for the last 15 yrs are cromo.
 
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